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AND EVERYBODY'S 



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)-book: 



CONTAINING OVER 

NEW AND VALUABLE 

R E O I F E S 

in the manufacture of family and toilet soaps, washing fluids 
cements, liquid solders for mending tin, iron, and steel, inks, 
dyes, domestic medicines, wines, cider, cordials, vinegar, 
pickles, preserves, jellies, and jams ; on the art of 
cooking, and almost every art pertaining to house- 
keeping and domestic economy; together with 
departments designed especially for far- 
mers and mechanics, giving valuabls 
Information upon various topics 
connected with their respec- 
tive vocations. 



BY SMITH & SWINNET, 

CHEMISTS, ETC, 



CINCINNATI, OHIO: 

TENTH EDITION — FIFTY-FIFTH THOUSAND. 

1870. 



/^v 



s^Wo 



PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION. 

^'^7/.. ' 

So KAPp has been the sale of this truly valuable little book, that the 
first edition of 3,000 copies was hardly out of press before a new one was 
called for to supply the increasing demands coming from every quarter, 
and a second edition of 12,000, and also a third, of 10,000, are now ex- 
hausted, and a fourth edition of 10,000 more is now demanded. 

It has been thoroughly revised, improved, and considerably enlarged 
since its first appearauce. 

Although the Authors have spent several years in collecting its material 
from various sources, in experimenting upon and improving recipes, and 
arranging them for publication, it is now gotten up and designed espe- 
cially for the benefit of Disabled Soldiers and Soldiers' Widows; through 
whose agency it is being sold, and to whom we give more than one-half 
the net profits. 

Its novelty, of combining such a multiplicity of practical recipes, and so 
much varied and useful information upon nearly all matters pertaining 
to housekeeping and domestic economy, commends it to all classes and 
conditions in society. 

In addition to several valuable ones of our own, we have added a large 
number of new ones, never before made public; for some of which we 
have paid sums ranging from $10 up to $50, expressly for our book — 
making it the most valuable collection of family receipts ever compiled in 
one volume. At least one hundred can be selected from the entire work, 
any one of which would be worth its price to any family; while some of 
them are worth ten times that amount. 

The Medical Department contains information of the most vital im- 
portance to every family in the land, while no economical housewife 
would be without the knowledge embraced in the Culinary Department, 
after having once been in its possession, for twice the consideration de- 
manded for the book. 

Its price, compared with that of other publications, may seem high ; 
but when viewed in the light of its intrinsic value, and particularly with 
reference to the fact that we have given to the public several very import- 
ant recipes of our own, from which we were manufacturing and selling 
articles of great value, at large profits, it is not. 

The pages are large and the type small; and being solidly set, the book 
contains as much reading matter as is ordinarily included in two or three 
hundred pages. 

"While the directions given in each receipt are sufficiently explicit for 
the comprehension of all, we have aimed at conciseness and brevity, in 
order to condense a large amount of information in as small a compass as 
is possible. 

By this means we are enabled to put the book to the Soldier at such a 
price as will yield him a large profit, and remunerate bim for his trouble; 
Dcsidos, in a measure, compensating him for his past services in behalf of 
his country. Of transfer rr©r 

C%% mceU^, THE A'JTHOKS. 

Entered according to Act of Con,^ress, in the vear 1805, by Smith A Swinney, in the 
Clerk's Office ol' the District Court of the United States, iu and for the boutheni Dis- 
trict of Ohio. 



THE HOUSE-KEEPER'S GUIDE. 



SOAP AND WASHIl^G EECEIPTS. 

Chemical Soap. — Take 2 pounds sal soda and 1 pound good stone lime 
(or 2 pounds slacked lime) and boil in 10 quarts of soft water; let it set- 
tle ; pour off the clear fluid and add 2 pounds of tallow (or its equivalent 
in soap-grease, J pound borax and ^ pound of resin, and boil together till 
the grease is all taken up, then pour into a shallow box, and, when cool, 
cut into bars. Two hours' boiling will generally be sufficient. 

If you wish to make soft soap, add water to make it of the desired con- 
sistency, which can be ascertained by cooling in a saucer while boiling. 
Owing to the present high price of resin, it may be omitted till it becomes 
cheaper. 

Again: Common bar soap, cut fine, may be used in place of the tallow 
or grease, by using double the quantity of water, and omitting the resin. 
Those who have ]ye soap already made, can make it go as far again, and 
wash with half the labor, by adding to each gallon 2 large table spoonfuls 
of sal soda and 1 of borax, dissolved in a little warm water, then using 
same as chemical soap. 

Washivg Fluid. — Take 2 pounds of sal soda, 1 pound good stone lime, 
and 2J gallons soft water, and bring to a boil , when settled, pour off the 
clear fluid into a stone jug, and add 1 ounce of hartshorn and 1 ounce 
of borax, and keep it tightly corked. After boiling the lime and soda, 
for either the soap or Avashing-fluid, pour on water the second time ; let 
it settle, and again pour off for scrubbing, &c. 

To Make Soft Soap. — Take 20 pounds of potash and dissolve, in an iron 
kettle, with 25 gallons of cold soft water, and let it stand three days, if 
the weather be warm, and five or six, if cool. When all is dissolved, take 
20 pounds of clear grease, or its equivalent in rough grease, and cleanse 
it with white lye; then strain it through a tin colander or sieve in a soap- 
barrel, and add the potash lye, carefully drained from the sediment; 
then pour on a few gallons of water, so as to obtain all the strength from 
the potash, and pour off again, after it has settled, into the barrel. This 
makes a superior article of soap — of which an}^ housewife may be proud. 

Directions for Washing. — Soak your white clothes one half hour in the 
morning, (or, if very dirty, over night,) in a tub of lukewarm water, 
with 1 pint of the soap dissolved in it ; suds them out, wring and soap 
wristbands, collars, and dirty or stained places. Now have your boiler 
half filled with soft water just beginning to boil, then put in 1 common 
teacup full of the washing fiuid, stir it up and put in your clothes, and 
boil for thirty minutes; now suds them out, rubbing on your hand a lit- 
tle any place where there may be any dirt left; rinse, and all is done. 
This plan requires no wash-board for white clothes, saves one-half the 
soap, and more than one-half the labor, and does not injure the clothes, 



4 - THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUI'DfJ. 

but saves the wear and tear of rubbing on the board. These receipts 
alone are worth ten dollars to any family. 

Directions for Washing Calicoes. — Calico clothes, before they are put 
in water, sliould have the grease spots rubbed out, as they cannot be seen 
when the whole of the garment is wet. They should never be washed 
in very hot soap suds; that which is mildly warm will cleanse them quite 
as well, and will not extract the colors so much. Soft soap should never 
be used for calicoes, excepting for the various shades of yellow, which 
look the best washed with soft soap, and not rinsed in fair water. Other 
colors should be rinsed in fair water, and dried in the shade, When 
calicoes incline to fade, the colors can be set by washing them in luke- 
warm water, with beefs gall, in the proportion of a tea-cupful to four or 
five gallons water. Einse them in fair water; no soap is necessarj^, un- 
less the clothes are very dirty. If &o, wash them in lukewarm suds, after 
they have been first rubbed out in beefs gall water. The beefs gall can 
be kept several months, by squeezing it out of the skin in which it ia 
inclosed, adding salt to it, and bottled and corked tight. A little vinegar 
in the rinsing water of pink, red, and green calicoes, is good to brighten 
the colors, and keep them from mixing. 

. Directions for Washinp Woolejis. — If you do not wish to have white 
flannels shrink when washed, make a good suds of hard soap, and wash 
the flannels in it, without rubbing any soap on them; rub them out in 
another suds, then wring them out of it, and put them in a clean tub, 
and turn on sufficient boiling water to cover them, and let them remain 
till the water is cold. A little indigo in the boiling water makes the 
flannels look nicer. If j'ou wish to have your white flannels shrink, so 
as to have them thick, wash them in soft soap suds, and rinse them in 
cold water. Colored woolens that incline to fade, should be washed with 
beefs gall and warm water, before they are put into soap-suds. Colored 
pantaloons look very well washed with beefs gall and fair warm water, 
and pressed on the wrong side while damp. 

■ Directions for Washing White Cotton Cloth. — Table cloths, or any white 
clothes that have coflfee or fruit stains on them, before being put into soap- 
suds, should have boiling water turned on them, and remain in it until 
the water is cold; the spots should be then rubbed out in it. If they are 
put into soap-suds with the stains in, they will be set by it, so that no sub- 
sequent washing will remove them. Table-cloths will be less likely to 
get stained up, if they are always rinsed in thin starch-water, as it tends 
to keep coflfee and fruit from sinking into the texture of the cloth. "White 
clothes that are very dirty, will come clean easily if put into strong cool 
suds, and hung on the fire the night previous to the day on which they 
are to be washed. If they get to boiling, it will not do them any harm, 
provided the suds is cool when they are put in ; if it is hot at first, it will 
set the dirt in. 

The following method of washing clothes is a saving of a great deal of 
labor: tSoak the clothes in lukewarm soap- suds; if they are quite dirty, 
Boak them over night. To every three pails of water, put a pint of soft 
soap, and a table-spoonful of the salts of soda. Heat it till it mildly warm, 
then put in the clothes without any rubbing, and boil them an hour. 
Drain the suds out of them as much as possible, as it is bad for the hands; 
then add water until cool enough for the hands. The dirt will be loose, 
BO that they will require but little rubbing, llinse them thoroughly in 
clear water, then in indrgo-water. The soda can be procured cheap, by 
purchasing It in large quantities. Soda is an excellent thin^ to soften 
hard water. The soda suds will not do to wash calicoes in. It is a good 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 5 

plan to save yovir suds, after washing, to water your garden, if you have 
one, or to harden cellars and yards when they are sandy. 

Directions for Cleai-) sing Silk Goods. — When silk cushions, or silk cover- 
ings to furniture, become dingy, rub dry bran on them gently with a 
woolen cloth till clean. Remove the grease spots and stains. Silk gar- 
ments should have the spots extracted before being washed. Use hard 
soap for all colors but yellow, for which soft soap is the best. Put the 
soap into hot water, beat it till it is perfectly dissolved, then add suffi- 
cient cold water to make it just lukewarm. Put in the silks, and rub 
them in it till clean ; take them out without wringing, and rinse them in 
fair lukewarm water. Rinse it in another water; and for bright yellows, 
crimsons and maroons, add sulphuric acid enough to the water to give 
it an acid taste before rinsing the garment in it. To restore the colors 
of the different shades of pink, put in the second rinsing water a little 
vinegar or lemon-juice; for scarlet, use a solution of tin; for blues, pur- 
ples, and other shades, use pearlash ; and for olive greens, dissolve verdi- 
gris in the rinsing water; fawns and browns should be rinsed in pure 
water. Dip the silks up and down in the rinsing water; take them out 
of it without wringing, and dry them in the shade. Fold them up while 
damp; let them remain to have the dampness strike through all parts 
of them alike, then put them in a mangier; if you have not one, iron 
them on the wrong side with an iron just hot enough to smooth them. 
A little isinglass or gum arabic dissolved in the rinsing water of gauze 
shawls and ribbons, is good to stiffen them. The water in which pared 
potatoes have been boiled, is an excellent thing to wash black silks in; 
it stiffens and makes them glossy and black. Beef's gall in lukewarm 
water is also a nice thing to restore rusty silk, and soap-suds answers very 
well. They look better not to be rinsed in clear water, but they should 
be washed in two different waters. 

No person should ever wring or crush a piece of silk when it is wet, 
because the creases thus made will remain forever, if the silk is thick and 
hard. The way to wash silk is to spread it smoothly upon a clean board, 
rub white soap upon it, and brush it with a clean hard brush. The silk 
must be rubbed until all the grease is extracted, then the soap should be 
brushed off with clean cold water, and applied to both sides. The 
cleansing of silk is a very nice operation. Mcst of the colors are liable to 
be extracted with washing in hot suds, especially blue and green colors. 
A little alum dissolved in the last water that is brushed on the silk, tends 
to prevent the colors from running. Alcohol and camphene mixed to- 
gether is used for removing grease from silk. 

Franklin Soap. — 1 pound common bar soap, 1 pint alcohol, 15 drops 
citron elles, or other perfume, \ ounce spirits of hartshorn. Have your soap 
cut very fine, put all the materials in a clean iron kettle, and stir it slowly 
till all is dissolved. Let it just come to a boil, and then take it up in 
molds or bars. 

White Bar Soap. — Take 8 quarts water, 4 pounds common bar soap, J 
pound sal soda, 2 ounces alcohol, 2 ounces saltpeter, 1 ounce borax. Put 
all into an iron kettle, stir till dissolved, then boil for ten minutes. 

Almond Soap. — Take 1 pound of quick lime and pour on 3 quarts of 
boiling distilled water; add 1 pound of salt of tartar dissolved in 1 quart 
of water; cover the vessel, and when cold, filter through a cotton cloth; 
a pint should weigh exactly 16 ounces Troy; if more, add distilled water; 
if less, evaporjite. Then add one-third of oil of almonds, simmer them 
together for some hours, or until the oil forms a jeliy; when cool, whieh 
may be tried by a small quantity, add common salt, then continue boiling 



6 THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 

till the soap is solid ; wlien cold, skim off the water, and then pour into 
molds. 

Trnvsparent Soap. — Transparent soap is made by dissolving hard soap 
in alcohol, then drying. Most all toilet soaps are made by dissolving com- 
mon hard soap with the essential oils of lavender, bergamot, rosemary, 
&c. 

Writing Fluid. — Take 1 pound nutgalls, bruised, half a pound of log- 
wood chips, and boil in 12 quarts soft water till evaporated to 8 quarts. 
Let it settle, then strain through a hair sieve, and add half a pound of 
green sulphate of iron, and 2 ounces sulphate of copper, dissolved in a 
little hot water, 1 ounce crystalized sugar, and 3 ounces pov/uered gum 
arable, or half a pound of gum Senegal dissolved in a little hot water. 
Let it stand exposed to the air for 24 hours, then bottle. This Ink can 
be depended upon for deeds and records. 

A cheap Ink, easily made, and good enough for family purposes, is 
mnde as follows: Bring 1 gallon soft water to a boil, and put in three- 
fourth ounce extract logwood, and boil two or three minutes ; then re- 
move from the tire and stir in 48 grains powdered gum arabic, 8 grains 
prussiate of potash, and 48 grains bi-chromate of potash. This ink can be 
made at a cost of five or ten cents for a single gallon, and as it does not 
spoil by freezing, it is best for school children. 

A lump of salt, size of a hazel-nut, dissolved in each quart of ink, will 
efiectually keep it from molding; or 5 drops of kreosote added to each 
pint, will have the same etfect. 

Indelible hik. — Nitrate of silver, 1 drachm ; rain water, 5 fluid drachms; 
mucilage gum arabic (fresh) one drachm; dissolve the nitrate of silver 
in the rain water, then add the mucilage. Por the preparation, add to 
each ounce of the mucilage five grains of baking soda. Paste a piece of 
dark paper all over the bottle, and keep in a dark place. 

Red Ink. — Take a half ounce viol, and put in a tea-spoonful of aqua 
ammonia; gum arabic, size of two or three peas, and five grains of good 
carmine; fill up with soft water, and it is soon ready for use. 

CEMENTS AND SOLDEES. 

Czmemlfor Glass, China, Wood, Leather, cj'c. — Take ]- pound white glue, 1 
ounce white lead, dry, and ^ pint soft water; put these in a tin dish, in- 
side an iron kettle filled with water, and boil, stiri-ing with a stick till all is 
dissolved; then add ^- pint alcohol, and boil again till well mixed. Put 
in a bottle, and keep tightly corked. When required for use, set the bot- 
tle in a dish of water on the stove, and gradually heat till the cement is 
dissolved and of the consistency of cream ; then apply a thin coating lu 
one edge, put the parts immediately together, pressing firmly for a few 
moments, and set the article away a day or so to dry. The cement must 
be quite warm and thin when used; and, in cold weather, slightly warm 
the article to be mend<'d, enough to take off the chill ; otherwise it will 
get cold before you can get the parts together, and form a thin coating 
like pa})er between the joints, in which ease it will not stick. In mend- 
ing wood, and articles that are porous, don't press hard too sot)n, or you 
will press all out, except what the pores of the wood will absorb, leaving 
none to unite the brokcm surfaces, but press slightly at first, then hard, 
after a few moments. (For Crockery Cement, see page 80.) 

Liquid Solder for Mending Ttn, Iron, and Steel. — Take \ pound munatio 
ncid and drop in as many strips of zinc as it will dissolve, and. while 
boiling, add { ounce pulverized sal ammoniac. "W'et the tin around the 



THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 7 

hole to "be mended with a drop or two of this fluid — first having scraped 
ofl" the rust, if any ; then lay on a piece of soft solder or pewter, and hold 
a candle or lamp underneath till it is melted. If the hole be large, either 
cover it with a small piece of tin, then a piece of solder large enough to 
cover all when melted, or set the dish on a cloth to keep the solder from 
running through, and then use a hot iron to nielt it. 

For mending iron and steel, wet the broken edges to be joined with 
this fluid, and then dip them into some filings of soft solder, and hold in 
a spirit-lamp, firmly pressing till the solder melts and oozes out of the 
seam, when the light must be blown out, and the article held perfectly 
still, till cool. 

Another. — An amalgam of chemically pure copper, with mercury at a 
.temperature of 450 degrees, will unite broken metals, glass, china, porce- 
lain, &c., as strongly as before broken. At the expiration of ten or twelve 
hours it becomes sufliciently hard to take on a polish like brass or silver. 



BEYEEAGES. 

Spruce Beer. — Take 3 gallons soft water, 2 J pints molasses, 3 eggs, well- 
beaten, and 1 gill yeast. Mix together equal parts oil sassafras, spruce 
and wintergreen, and put 50 drops of this mixture into two quarts of the 
water, boiling hot, and then put all together and let stand two or three 
hours, then bottle. For ginger flavor, take 2 ounces of ginger root, 
bruised, and a small handful of hops, and boil for half an hour in 1 gal- 
lon of the water, then strain and mix altogether. 

Good Ginger Beer. — Take 2-^- ounces ginger, 3 pounds sugar, 1 ounce 
cream tartar, the juice and peel of two middling-sized lemons, ^pint good 
brandy, J pint yeast, and 3| gallons water. Bruise the ginger, and put 
it and the sugar into the water,, and boil for twenty or thirty minutes; 
slice the lemons, and put them and the cream tartar in a large pan, and 
pour the boiling liquor on; stir it well, and, when milk- warm, add the 
yeast ; x^over it over and let it remain two or three days to work, skim- 
ming it frequently; then strain it through a jelly-bag into a cask, add 
the brandy, bung it tight, and at the end of two or three weeks draw it 
off", bottle and cork tight. If it does not work well at first, add a little 
more yeast, but be careful and not get too much, as it will taste of it. 

Lemon Beer. — Take 3 ounces ginger-root, bruised, 2 ounces cream tar- 
tar and boil for twenty or thirty minutes in 3 gallons of water. Strain 
and add 6 pounds coffee sugar on which you have put ^ ounce oil of 
lemon, or J ounce and three lemons all mashed up together, and add 7 
gallons more water nearl}^ milk- warm, then put in | pint of hop or brew- 
er's yeast, made into a paste, with 3 ounces flour. Let it work one night, 
and then bottle for use. 

Royal Diamond Sirup. — Take 1 gallon water, 6 pounds loaf-sugar, 6 
ounces tartaric acid, and 1 ounce gum arable in another vessel. Beat up 
four tea-spoonfuls of flour, and the whites of four eggs, and add ^ pint 
of water in another vessel : when that in the first vessel is blood-warm, 
put in the contents of the other vessel, and let it stand three minutes. 

To Use It. — Take two or three table-spoonfuls of the sirup to a glass 
one-half or two-thirds full of water, and stir in -J tea-spoonful of pulver- 
ized super-carbonate of soda. This is a cheap and delicious beverage, 
much better and healthier than soda water; easily made, and can be kept 
any length of time without deteriorating. Keep in a glass vessel, as 
metal of any kind would spoil it. 



8 THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 

Portable Lemonade. — Tartaric acid, ^ ounce, loaf sugar, 3 ounces, essence 
of lemon, ^ drachm. Powder the tartaric acid and the sugar very fine 
m a porcelain mortar, mix them together, and pour on the essence of 
lemon by a few drops at a time, stirring the mixture after each addition 
till the whole is added, then mix thoroughly and divide into twelve equal 
parts, wrapping each up separately in white paper. When wanted for 
use, dissolve in a tumbler of cold water, and you will have good lemon- 
ade. Convenient for persons traveling, where they cannot procure drinks 
Buituble to taste. 

WINES, COEDIALS, AND OTHEE LIQUOES. 

Red Currant Wine. — Take cold soft water, 11- gallons; red currants, 8 
gallons ; raspberries, from 1 to 3 quarts. Ferment and strain. Mix raw 
sugar, 20 pounds; beet root, sliced, 2 pounds; and red tartar, in fine pow- 
der, 3 ounces. Put in one nutmeg, in fine powder, and add 1 gallon 
brandy. This will make 18 gallons. 

White Currant Wine. — Take cold soft water, 9 gallons; white currants, 

9 gallons. Ferment and strain. Mix refined sugar, 25 pounds; white 
tartar, in powder, 1 ounce ; clary seed, bruised, 2 ounces, or clary flowers, 
or sorrel flowers, 4 handfuls, then add white brandy, 1 gallon. This will 
make 18 gallons. 

Black Currant Wine. — Cold soft water, 10 gallons; black currants, 6 
gallons; strawberries, 3 gallons. Ferment and strain. Mix raw sugar, 
25 pounds; red tartar, in fine powder, 6 ounces; orange thyme, 2 hands- 
f ul ; then add brandy 2 or 3 quarts. This will make 18 gallons. 

Strawberry Wine. — Take of cold soft water, 7 gallons; cider, 6 gallons; 
strawberries, G gallons. Ferment and strain. Mix raw sugar, 16 pounds ; 
red tartar, in tine powder, 3 ounces; the peel and juice of 2 lemons; then 
add brandy, 2 or 3 quarts. 

Raspberry Wine. — Take of cold soft water, 6 gallons ; cider, 4 gallons ; 
raspberries, 6 gallons. Ferment and strain. Mix raw sugai-, 18 or 20 
pounds; red tartar, in fine powder, 3 ounces; orange and lemon peel, 2 
ounces dry, or 4 ounces fresh. Then add 3 quarts brandy. This will 
make 18 gallons. 

EiderbcrryWine. — Take of cold soft water, 16 gallons; Malaga raisins, 
50 pounds; elderberries, 4 gallons; red tartar, in fine powder, 4 ounces. 
Mix ginger, in powder, 5 ounces ; cinnamon, cloves, and mace, of each 2 
ounces; peel and juice of 3 oranges or lemons. Then add 1 gallon of 
brandy. This will make 18 gallons. 

Gooseberry Wine. — Take of cold soft water, 3 gallons , gooseberries, 3 J 
gallons. Ferment and strain. Now mix raw sugar, 5 pounds; honey, l| 
pounds; tartar, in fine powder, 1 ounce. Afterward put in bitter almonds 
2 ounces; sweetbriar, 1 snuiU liandful, and brandy 1 gallon or less. 

Conijiound Wine. — An excellent family wine may be made of equal parts 
of red, white, and black currants, ripe cherries and raspberries, well bruised 
and mixed with soft water, in the proportion of 4 pounds of fruit to one 
gallon of water. When strained and pressed, 3 pounds of moist sugur 
are to be added to each gallon of the liquid. Alter straining, open for 
three days, during which it is to be stirred frequently; it is to be put in 
a barrel, and left for two weeks to work, when a nintli part uf brandy is 
to be added, and the whole bung(;d down. In a few Uionths it will be a 
most excellent wine, inferior to none. 

Blackberry Wine. — Having procured berries that are fully ripe, put 
thenx into a large vessel of wood or stone, wiih a cock in it, and pour 



THE HOUSErKEEPER S GUIDE. 9 

npon them as much boiling water as will cover them. As soon as tho 
heat will permit the hand to he put into the vessel, bruise them well till 
all the berries are broken. Then let them stand covered till the berries 
begin to rise toward the top, which tbej^ generally do in three or four 
days. Then draw off the clear into another vessel, and add to every ten 
quarts of this liquor 1 pound of sugar. Stir it well, and let it stand to 
work a week or ten days, in another vessel. Take 4 ounces of isinglass, 
and lay it to steep twelve hours in a pint of white wine. The next morn- 
ing boil it upon a slow fire till it is all dissolved. Then take a gallon of 
blackberry juice, put in the dissolved isinglass, give them a boil together, 
and pour all into the vessel. Let it stand a few days to purge and settle, 
then draw it off, and keep in a cool place. 

Another Method. — Take ripe blackberries, press the juice from them, 
let it stand thirty-six hours to ferment (lightly covered,) and skim off 
whatever rises to the top ; then to every gallon of the juice add 1 quart 
of water and 3 pounds of sugar, (brown will do,) let it stand in an open 
vessel for twenty-four hours; skim and strain it, then barrel it. Let it 
stand eight or nine hours, when it should be racked off, bottled, and corked 
close. It improves by age. 

Ehubarb Wine. — Peel and slice the stalk of the leaf, as for pies ; put a 
very small quantity of water m the vessel, only just enough to cover the 
bottom; cover the vessel, and gradually bring to a very slight boil ; then 
strain, passing all the liquid; to this liquid add an equal quantity of 
water; to each gallon (after mixed,) add 4 to 5 pounds of brown sugar; 
set aside, ferment and skim like currant wine; leave in the cask and in 
bulk as long as possible before using. All wine is best kept in casks. 

Another. — Take of sliced rhubarb, 2^ ounces; lesser cardamon seeds, 
bruised and husked, J ounce; saffron, 2 drachms; Spanish white wine, 2 
pints; proof spirit, J pint. Digest for ten days, and strain. This is a 
warm cordial, laxative medicine, good in weakness of the stomach and 
bowels, and for regulating and strengthening the whole viscera. 

Damson Wine. — Cold soft water, 11 gallons; damson plums, 8 gallons. 
Ferment. Mix' raw sugar, 30 pounds; red tartar, in fine powder, 6 
ounces; brandy, 1 gallon. 

Cherry Wine. — Cold soft water, 10 gallons; cherries, 10 gallons. Fer- 
ment. Mix raw sugar, 30 pounds; red tartar, in fine powder, 3 ounces; 
brandy, two or three quarts. Two days after the cherries have been in 
the vat, take out about 3 quarts, break the stones and return them to the 
vat again. 

Peach Wine. — Cold soft water, 18 gallons; refined sugar, 25 pounds; 
honej^, 6 pounds; white tartar, in fine powder, 2 ounces; peaches, 60 or 
80 in number. Ferment. Then add 2 gallons brandy. Put all together 
in the vat, except the peaches and brandy, and let remain one day ; then 
break the pea<jh-kernels and put them into the vat, and ferment; then add 
the brandy afterward. 

Apricot Wine. — Boil together 3 pounds of sugar and 3 quarts of water, 
and skim it well. Put in 6 pounds of apricots, pared and stoned, and let 
them boil till they become tender. Then take them up, and when the 
liquor is cold, bottle it. After taking out tJie apricots, let the liquor be 
boiled with a sprig of flowered clary. The apricots will make marmalade, 
and be very good for present use. 

Apple Wine. — To every gallon of apple juice, immediately as it comes 
from the press, add 2 pounds loaf sugar; boil it as long as any scum rises, 
then strain it through a sieve, and let it cool ; let it work in the tub for 
two or three weeks, or till the head begins to flatten, then skim off" the 



10 THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 

head, draw it clear off and turn it. When made a 3''ear, rack it off, and 
fine it with isinglass; then add ^ pint of the best rectified spirit of wine, 
or 1 pint of Prench brandy to every 8 gallons. 

GrapeWine. — Cold soft water, 5 gallons; black or red grapes, 40 pounds. 
Ferment and strain. Mix cider, 9 gallons; raw sugar, 20 pounds; bar- 
berry leaves, 3 handfuls; beet root, sliced, 2 pounds; red tartar, in fine 
powder, 4 ounces. Add white elder flowers, 6 handfuls; or sassafras chips, 
4 pounds; brandy, 1 gallon. This will make ]8 gallons. 

A)cuiher. — Cold soft water, G gallons; any kind of grapes, 30 pounds. 
Ferment and strain. Mix treacle, 10 pounds; beet root, sliced, 1^ pound.s; 
red tartar, in powder, 2 ounces ; rosemary leaves, 2 handfuls ; brandy, ^ 
gallon. This will make 9 gallons. 

A7iothe7\ — Cold soft water, 8 gallons; grapes of any sort, 100 pounds. 
Terment and strain. Mix raw sugar, 20 pounds ; beet root, sliced, 4 
pounds; barberry leaves, 4 handfuls; red tartar, in fine powder, 6 ounces. 
Add coriander seed, bruised, 2 ounces ; brandy, 6 quarts. This will make 
18 gallons. 

Ginger Wine. — Put into a nice boiler 10 gallons water; 15 pounds of 
lump sugar, with the whites of 6 or 8 eggs, well beaten and strained ; 
mix all well while cold. When the liquor boils, skim it well; put in ^ 
pound ginger root, bruised, acid boil it twenty minutes. Have ready the 
rinds (cut very thin,) of 7 lemons, and pour the hot liquor on them. 
When cool, put it into 3'our cask, with two spoonfuls of yeast; put a quart 
of the warm liquor to 2 ounces of isinglass shavings; whisk it well three 
or four times, and put all into the barrel, with 1 or 2 gallons good brandy, 
or pure spirits. Next day stop it up; in three weeks bottle it, and in 
three months it will be a delicious, safe beverage. 

OBSEEYATIONS ON CIDEK AND WINES, 

To make good cider, the following general, but important rules should 
be attended to. They demand a little more trouble than the ordinary 
mode of collecting and mashing apples of all sorts, rotten and sound, 
sweet and sour, dirty and clean, from the tree and the ground, and the 
rest of the slovenly process usually employed : 1. Always choose perfectly 
ripe and sound fruit. 2. Pick the apples by hand. An active boy, with 
a bag slung over his shoulders, will soon clear a tree. Apples that have 
laid any time on the soil contract an earthy taste, which will always bo 
found in the cider. 3. After sweating, and before ground, wipe them 
dry, and if any are found bruised and rotten, put them in a heap by 
themselves, for an inferior cider to make vinegar. 4. Always use hair 
cloths, instead of straw, to place between the layers of pummage. The 
straw, when heated, gives a disagreeable taste to the cider. 5. As the 
cider runs from the press, let it pass through a hair sieve, into a large 
open vessel, that will hold as much juice as can be expressed in one day. 
In a day, or sometimes less, the pummice will rise to the top, and in a 
short time grow very thick; when little white bubbles break through it, 
draw off" the liquor by a spiggot, placed about three inches from the bot- 
tom, so that the lees ma}'' be left quietly behind. 6. The cider must be 
drawn oft" into very clean, sweet casks, and closely watched. The moment 
the white bubbles befnre mentioned are perceived rising to the bunghole, 
rack it again. WHien the fermentation is completely at an end, fill up 
the cask with cider in all resju'cts like that contained in it, and bung it 
up tight, prcvit)U3 to which u tumbler uf iweet oil may be poured into 
the bung-bole. 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 11 

"When cider has fermented for about one week in a cask, add half a 
pound of white sugar to every gallon; then allow it to ferment further 
until it has acquired a brisk and pleasant taste. An ounce of the sulphite 
of lime is then added to every gallon of cider in the cask, and the whole 
agitated for a few minutes, and then left to settle. The sulphite of lime 
arrests the fermentation, and, in the course of a few days, the clear cider 
may be poured off and bottled, when it will retain the same taste that it 
had when the sulphite was added. About an ounce of the sulphite of 
lime added to a gallon of cider, in any stage of fermentation, will pre- 
serve it from further change. A sparkling cider wine is produced by the 
mode described. 

The following is another method of making cider wine: Take pure cider, 
as it runs from the press, and add a pound of brown sugar to every quart, 
and put it into a clean cask, which should be filled to within about 
two gallons of the top. The cask is then placed in a moderately cool 
cellar or apartment, and the cider allowed to ferment slowly, by the bung- 
hole being left open till it has acquired the proper taste and sparkles, when 
a small quantity is drawn. The cask is then bunged up tight. 

Grape wine should be allowed to remain for a long period in oak casks, 
after it is made, before it is bottled, otherwise it will be comparatively 
sour to the taste. This is owing to the great quantity of the tartrate of 
potash in the juice of the grape. When standing in a wooden cask, the 
tartrate is deposited from the wine, and adheres to the interior surfaces 
of the vessel, and it forms a thick and hard stony crust called "argol." 
This is the substance of which our cream-of-tartar and tartaric acid are 
made. In its crude state it is employed by silk and woolen dyers in pro- 
ducing scarlet, purple, and claret colors, in conjimction with cochineal and 
logwood. This explains the cause of wines becoming sweeter the longer 
they stand in casks in a cool situation. 

Wines may be made of the juice of the sorghum-cane, by permitting it 
to ferment for a short period in the same manner as has been described 
for cider, then closing up the cask tight, to prevent access of air. The 
fermentation of all saccharine juices is due to the combination, chemi- 
cally, of the oxygen of the air with some of the carbon in the sugar of the 
juice. A small quantity of alcohol is thus generated and absorbed by the 
ferm-ented juice. Carbonic acid gas is also generated; when absorbed by 
the liquid and retained under pressure, this gas imparts the sparkling 
property of wine. When the saccharine juices are undergoing fermenta- 
tion they must be tasted frequently, for the purpose of arresting the fer- 
mentation at the proper stage, because there are two stages of fermenta- 
tion, called the vinous and acetous. The first is that in which alcohol is 
produced ; the second, vinegar. Many artificial wines have a slight vinegar 
taste, which is caused by allowing the fermentation to proceed too far. 

These hints will.be useful to those who prepare light domestic wines 
These are now made very generally, and are held to exert a favorable 
influence in many cases of d^'spepsia. 

Port Wine. — Good worked eider, 20 gallons; good port wine, 5 gallons; 
good foreign brandy, one and a half gallons; proof spirits, 3 gallons. 
When all are mixed, color with elderberries, aloes, or burnt sugar. 

Peppermint Cordial. — Take 1 gallon proof spirits ; 1 pound of loaf sugar ; 
a little more than 1 pennyweight, Troy, of oil of peppermint, and one 
half gallon of water. 

Blackberry Cordial. — To 1 quart of blackberry juice, add 1 pound of 
white sugar, 1 table-spoonful of cloves, 1 of allspice, 1 of cinnamon, and 1 
of nutm*"^. Boil all together fifteen minutes; add a vdne-glass of whisky, 



12 THE house-keeper's GUTDE. 

"brandy, or rum. Bottle while hot, cork tij^ht find seal. This i? almost a 
specific in diarrhea. One dose of a wine-glassful for an adult — half that 
quantity for a child — will often cure diarrhea. It can be taken three or 
four times a day, if the case is severe. 

LIQUOKS. 

As nearly all the liquors now used, especially those of a cheap grade, 
are manufactured from whisky and poisonous compounds, those who deal 
in such articles, especially druggists, should make their own. according to 
the following recipes : 

Bra7idy. — Take pure cologne spirits, 4 gallons ; best of French brandy, 
1 gallon ; loaf sugar, half a pound : sweet spirits of niter, -2 ounces. Color 
with burnt sugar. • 

Giyi. — Pure cologne spirits, 4 gallons; Holland gin, 1 gallon; oil of juni- 
per, 8 scruples; oil of anise, 1-10 ounce. 

Rum. — Pure cologne spirits, 4 gallons, good Jamaica or St. Croix rum, 1 
gallon; oil of caraway, 1-16 ounce. 

These liquors are pure, and uiuch better than those you buy ready 
manufactured — nine-tenths of which are made from bad whisky and nox- 
ious drugs. Those who are able, had better buy the piire foreign article 
from responsible parties; but at the present prices (from $8 to $12 per 
gallon) few are able to obtain it even for medicinal purposes; besides, in 
most cases of sickness, that manufactured according to the above, answers 
ever}'' purpose. The coloring matter is made as follows: Take any quan- 
tity of white sugar and mix with water till about the consistency of a thin 
mush; now put in an iron kettle or spider, and burn over a hot stove till 
it becomes of a deep-red black color, quite thick, and smells strongly from 
the burning. Add a little warm water, to prevent its hardening, and use 
this to color all kinds of liquors requiring any. 

Cherry Bounce. — Take 1 barrel pure spirits, and put in from one-half to 
one bushel black (wild) cherries, and 6 or 8 pounds loaf sugar. You can 
reduce the strength by adding pure well, rain, or distilled water. 

Black Cherry Brandy. — Stone 8 pounds of black cherries and put on them 
1 gallon of brandy; now bruise the stones in a mortar, and then add them 
to the brandy; cover them close, and let them stand from four to six 
weeks; then pour it clear from tiie sediment and bottle. Morella cher- 
ries, managed in this way. make a fine, rich cordial. 

Raspberry Brandy. — Take 1 gallon brandy, and h gallon water, and put 
into a stone jug, jar, or demijohn, and then add 1 gallon raspberries, and 
1 poimd of loaf sugar, and let it remain for a week closely covered ; then 
take a piece of flannel, with a piece of Holland over it, and let it run 
through gradually. It may be racked into other bottles in a week after, 
and then it will be fine. Blackberry brandy may be made in the same way. 

Vinegar. — 1 gallon alcohol, 8 gallons water, 1 quart m<^lassed, and a dozen 
white beans, done up in a brown paper, to foi-m the niotlier. Let it stand 
two or three weeks in a warm jilace. This is equal to cider vinegar. 

Another. — To 3 gallons soft water, add 1 quart molasses, 1 pint of yeast, 
and 1 ounce of cream tartai-; let it stand four weeks in a warm place; 
then add as much sweetened water each week as you use of the vinegar. 
Cold tea is excellent to repleni.sh vinegar. 

DYEING. 

To Dye Black. — Allow a pound of logwood to each pound of goods that 
are to be dyed. Soak it over night in soft water, then boil it an hour, and 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 13 

gtrtiin the water in which it is hoiled. For each pound of logwood, dis- 
solve an ounce of blue vitriol in lukewarm water, sufficient to wet the 
goods. Dip the goods in; when saturated with it, turn the whole into the 
logwood dye. If the goods are cotton, set the vessel on the fire, and let 
the gcods boil ten or fifteen minutes, stirring them constantly to prevent 
their spotting. SiHc and woolen goods should not be boiled in the dye- 
stufi", but it should be kept at a scalding heat for twenty minutes. Drain 
the goods without wringing, and hang them in a dry, shady place, where 
they will have the air. When dry, set the color, by putting them into scald- 
ing hot water that has salt in it, in the proportion of a teacupful to three 
gallons of the water. Let the goods remain in till cold; then hang them 
in a place where they will dry (they should not be wrung) Boiling hot 
suds is the be?t thing to set the color of black silk; let it remain in it till 
cold. Soaking black-dyed goods in sour milk is also good to set the 
color. 

Green and Blue Dye, for Silks and Woolens. — For green dye, take a pound 
of oil of vitriol, and turn it upon half an ounce of Spanish indigo, that has 
been reduced to a fine powder. Stir them well together, then add a lump 
of pearlash of the size of a pea; as soon as the fermentation ceases, bottle 
it; the dye will be fit for use the next day. Chemic blues are made in the 
same manner, only using half the quantity of vitriol. For woolen goods, 
the East indigo will answer as well as the Spanish, and comes much lower. 
This dye will not answer for cotton goods, as the vitriol rots the threads. 
"Wash the articles that are to be dyed till perfectly clean, and free from 
color. If you can not extract the color by rubbing it in hot suds, boil it 
out ; rinse it in soft water till entirely free from soap, as the soap will 
ruin the dye. To dye a pale color, put to each quart of soft warm water, 
that is to be used for the dye, ten drops of the above composition ; if you 
wish a deep color, more will be necessary. Put in the articles without 
crowding, and let them remain in it till of a good color; the dye-stuff 
should be kept warm. Take the articles out without wringing; drain as 
nmch of the d^'e out of them as possible, then hang them to dry in a 
shady, airy place. They should be dyed when the weather is dry; if not 
dried quickly, they will not look well. When perfectly dry, wash them 
in lukewarm suds, to keep the vitriol from injuring the texture of the 
cloth. If you wish for a lively, bright green, mix a little of the above 
composition with yellow dye. 

Yellow Dyes. — To dye a bufi"- color, boil equal parts of arnotto and com- 
mon potash in soft clear water. When dissolved, take it from the fire ; 
when cool, put in the goods, which should previously be washed free from 
spots and color ; set them on a moderate fire, where they will keep hot, 
till the goods are of the shade you wish. To dye salmon and orange-color 
tie arnotto in a bag, and soak it in warm soft-soap suds till it becomes 
soft, so that you can squeeze enough of it through the bag to make the 
suds a deep yellow ; put in the ariicles, which should be clean, and free 
from color; boil them till of the shade you wish. There should be enough 
of the dye to cover the goods ; stir them while boiling, to keep them from 
spotting. This dye will make a salmon or orange color, according to 
the strength of it, and the time the goods remain in it. Drain them 
out of the dye, and dry them quickly in the shade; when dry, wash them 
in soft soap suds. Goods dyed in this manner should never be rinsed in 
clear water. Peach leaves, fustic, and saftron, all make a good straw or 
lemon color,. according to the strength of the dye. They should be steeped 
in soft fair water, iu an earthen or tin vessel, and then strained, and th« 
dye set with alum, and a little gum ii.rabic dissolved iu the dye, if you 



14 THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 

wish to stiffen the article. When the dye-stuff is strained, steep the 
articles in it. 

Red Dyes. — Maddei" makes a good durable red, but not a brilliant color. 
To make a dye (yi it, allow, for half a pound of it, 3 ounces of alum, and 1 
of cream-of-tartar, and 6 gallons of water. This proportion of ingredients 
■will make sufficient dye for six or seven pounds of goods. Heat half of 
the water scalding hot, in a clean brass kettle; then put in the alum and 
cream-of-tartar, and let it dissolve. When the water boils, stir the alum 
and tartar up in it; put in the goods, and let them boil a couple of hours; 
then rinse them in fair water, emjity the kettle, and put in three gallons 
of water and the niadder; rub it fine in the water, then put in the goods, 
and set them where they will keep scalding hot for an hour without boil- 
ing: stir them constantly. When they have been scalding an hour, in- 
crease the fire till they boil. Let them boil five minutes; then drain them 
out of the dye, and rinse them, without wringing, in fair water, and hpng 
them in the shade where they will dry. 

Slate-cQlored Dye. — T-c ma'.^o a good dark slate-color, boil sugar-loaf 
paper with vinegar, in an iron utensil ; put in alum to set the color. Tea 
grounds, set with copperas, make a good slate-color. To produce a light 
slate-color, boil white maple bark in clear water, with a little alum; the 
hark should be boiled in a brass utensil. The dye for slate-color should 
be strained before the goods are put into it. They should be boiled in it, 
and then hung where they will drain and dry. 

To Dye a Lively and Beautiful Drab. — Light-colored fabrics — cotton, 
silk, linen, or wool — such as gloves, stockings, &c., can be dyed a beautiful 
drab as follows: To a pint of rain water add six or eight grains of nitrate 
of silver; when it is dissolved, stir it well, and immerse the perfectly clean 
fabric. See that it is well and evenly saturated, for which use a stick, 
not a spoon, nor the hands. When thoroughly soaked, it may be quickly 
■wrung out with the hands, they being instantly washed. In a pint of 
water dissolve one quarter of an ounce of sulphuret of potassium, place 
the goods in it, and saturate well; then wash in clear water, and it is 
finished. It is better that the first-named solution should be hot, and a 
flittle time taken for wool. Glass vessels must be used. 

A Few Hints on Lyeing. — 'i'o those who wish to have certain fabrics 
dyed, the following information will be found useful as regards the colors 
they will take. Thus, if the material be black, it can only be dyed black; 
brown, dark green, dai'k crimson, dark claret, and dark olive. Brown can 
only be dyed black, dark brown, dark claret. Dark green: black, dark 
brown, dark green, dark claret, dark olive. Light green: dark green, 
black, dark brown, dark crimson, dark claret, dark olive. Dark crimson: 
black, brown, dark ci'imson, dark claret. Light crimson will take the 
same as daik crimson. Claret : black, brown, dark crimson, dark claret. 
Fawn will take dark crimson, dark green, black, brown, dark claret. 
Puce: black, brown, dark olive, dark crimson, dark claret. Dark blue: 
bhick, brown, dark crimson, aark green, dark claret, dark olive, dark blue. 
Pale blue: dark crimson, dark green, black, brown, claret, puce, dark 
blue, dark olive, lavender, orange, yellow. Olive will dye brown, black, 
dark green, dark crimson, dark claret. Lavender: black, brown, dark 
crimson, claret, lavender, olive. Pink: dark crimson, dark green, black, 
brown (as all tints will take a black and brown, these colors will not be 
repeated), pink, olive, dark blue, dark puce, dark fawn. Kose, same as 
pink, but also orange, scarlet, and girafle. Straw, primrose, and yellow 
•will dye almost any color required; as also will peach and girafle. Gray 
will only dye, besides brown and black, dark green, dark claret, dark 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 15 

crimson, dark fawn, dark blue. White silk, cotton, and woolen goods, 
can be dyed any color. As cotton, silk, and wool all take d3'e diflerently, 
it is almost impossible to re-dye a fabric of mixed stuff any color except 
the dark ones named. It will be observed by the above list that pale blue 
will re-dye better than any other color. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Arnica Hair Wash. — When the hair is falling off and becoming thin 
from the frequent use of castor, macassar oils, &c., or when premature 
baldness arises from illness, the Arnica hair wash will be found of great 
service in arresting the mischief. It is thus prepared-: Take elder water, 
half a pint; sherry wine, half a pint; tincture of arnica, half an ounce, 
alcoholic ammonia, one drachm — if this last named ingredient is old and 
has lost its strength, then two drachms instead of one may be employed. 
The whole of these are to be mixed in a lotion bottle, and applied to the 
head every night with a sponge. Wash the head with warm water 
twice a week. Soft brushes only must be used during the growth of the 
young hair. 

Lotion for Restoring the Color of Gray Hair. — Take half an ounce of 
sulphur steeped in alcohol, and a quarter of an ounce of sugar of lead, 
mixed with ten ounces of rose water, in a phial. The phial should be 
shaken every time the liquid is applied, which should be every evening, 
with a sponge, for about a week at first, then twice a week after the color 
of the hair is restored. The head should be covered with a close glazed 
linen cap after this lolion is put on. 

Pomatum for Growth of the Hair. — This pomatum, applied to the scalp, 
acts as a stimulant to the roots of the hair, and as a nourisher to the hair 
itself, by stimulating the capillary vessels. In the imuiediate neighbor- 
hood of hair-bulb, the blood particles are more numerous and active. 
The ammonia, containing, as it does, nitrogen, one of the principal con- 
stituents of hair, horn, and nail affords one of its direct elements of for- 
mation, and hence its value as a nourisher. It is utterly impossible for the 
animal economy to create hair out of any oil, because oil is destitute of 
nitrogen, but if grease be combined with ammonia, which yields nitrogen, 
then great benefit will be derived from the pomade so made. All po- 
mades and oils that are used for the hair only act &% a polish, but afford 
no nourishment. The following is a simple form for making the ammo- 
niacal pomatum: Take almond oil, a quarter of a pound; white wax, 
half an ounce; clarified lard, three ounces; liquid ammonia, a quarter 
fluid ounce ; otto lavender and cloves, of each, one drachm. Place the 
oil, wax, and lard into ajar, which set into boiling water; when the wax 
is melted, allow the grease to cool till nearly ready to set, then stir in 
the ammonia and the perfume, and put into small jars for use. Never 
use a hard brush, nor comb the hair too much; apply the pomade at 
night only. 

Another Coloring for the Hair. — The following method is probably 
more simple, and safer than any other: Take equal parts of vinegar, 
lemon juice, and powdered litharge; boil for half an hour on a slow fire ; 
wet the hair with this decoction, and in a short time it will turn black. 

Milk of Almo7ids, for the Complexion. — This much admired and harm 
less cosmetic may be prepared thus: Procure a quarter of a pound of 
the best Jordan almonds, which blanch, by putting them into boiling 
water for three minutes, and afterward into cold water for the same time 



16 THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 

the skin or pellicle will then slip ofl' hy pressure between the thumb and 
finger. The almonds are now to he crushed in a mortar, and rubbed with 
a quarter of an ounce of the best white or curd soap. Continue the 
rubbing for a quarter of an hour, during which period gradual!}' add one 
quart of rose water. When the whole resembles milk, strain through fine 
muslin. It is then fit for use, and may be applied to the skin wtth the 
corner of a soft towel, after washing. Those who are without a mortar 
must grate the almonds on a bread grater, and rub the ingredients together 
with clean hands. Fresh rain water, or plain distilled water, will answer 
in lieu of rosewater, where economy is studied. 

Powder for Chafed Skin. — This preparation is universally applied for 
drying the skin, after washing, especially at the joints, which, if left even 
damp at certain seasons, produces chaps and chafing, often followed, if 
neglected, by inflammation; Violet powder is best prepared b}' mixing 
three parts of the best wheat starch with one of finely-ground orris root: 
the latter adds to the drying power of the starch, and imparts at the same 
time an agreeable odor, like that of the violet; hence the name of the mix- 
ture. It is al'so prepared by perfuming starch with essential oils without 
the addition of orris root; but though the scent of the powder is stronger, 
and to some more tempting to use, it is far less beneficial in its appli- 
cation. The scent, acting as a stimulant to the skin, increases rather 
than abates any tendency to redness, Unperfumed powder is therefore 
best to use, dusted over the part with a little swan's down, commonly 
called a puff. 

For Whitening the Skin, and Removing Freckles and Tan. — Take one 
ounce of borax, two ounces of cologne, one quart of alcohol, and three 
quarts of rain water. Bathe three times a day in a solution of two tea- 
gpoonfuls in two table-spoonfuls of water. 

Ointment for Chapped Hands. — Take sweet oil, 3 ounces; spermaceti, 4 
ounces, and pulverized camphor, 1 ounce. Mix them together in a clean 
earthenware vessel, by the aid of gentle heat, and apply it warm to the 
hands night and moi'ning. Another ver}^ good ointment for chapped 
hands is made with a little fresh newly-churned butter and hone}'. 

Cure for Bu7iio7is aiid Corns. — The tincture of iodine applied to bunions 
is said to aflbrd great relief. A strong solution of pearlash, applied to 
corns, will soften them so that they may be easily drawn out. 

To Reynove Warts. — Take ashes made from burnt willow bark, and 
mix with sweet cider, and apply several times, and they will soon dis- 
appear. 

Cure for Chilblains. — Apply a wash made of 1 part of muriatic acid 
and 7 parts of water. 

To Destroy Flies. — To 1 pint of milk add ^ pound of raw sugar and 
2 ounces ground pepper; simmer them together eight or ten minutes, 
and place it about in shallow dishes. The tlies attack it greedily, and are 
soon suflTocated. By tliis method kitchens, &c.. may be kept clear of flies 
all summer, whithout the danger attending poison. 

Wash for Frnit Trees. — Take 3 gallons of lye, from wood ashes, strong 
enough to just float an egg; 1 pint of soft soa]i, | pound of niter, and a 
handful of conunon salt. The niter should be dissolved in warm water; 
then add the salt and other ingredients, and stir until thoroughly incor- 
porated. Apply it to the trunks and large branches of the trees with a 
common (painter's) brush. It should not be apijliod to very young 
branches, or tlie leaves. 

Retnedy for Cnrculio in Fruit Trees. — Sawdust, saturated with coal oil, 
and placed at the rooto of tlic tree, will be u sure preventive. 



THE HOUSE-KEEPER'S GUIDE. 17 

Another. — It is said that tansy, bound upon the limbs of plum-trees, 
will be an effectual antidote against the ravages of this insect. 

To Take Out Stains. — Take half a pint of water, dissolve in it half aii 
ounce of salt of sorrel ; add 2 ounces of spirits of wine. Shake then! 
well together. Rub the liquid on the stains with a sponge. 

To Retnove Stains from Broadcloth. — Take 1 ounce of pipe-clay, that 
has been ground fine, and mix it with 12 drops of alcohol, and the samo 
quantity of spirits of turpentine. Whenever you wish to remove any 
stains from cloth, moisten a little of this mixture and rub it on the spots. 
Let it remain till dry, then rub it off with a woolen cloth, and the spots 
will disappear. 

To Remove Black Stains from Scarlet Woolen Goods. — Mix tartaric acid 
with water, to give it a splendid acid taste, then saturate the black spot 
with it, taking care not to have it touch the clean part of the garment. 
Rinse the spots immediately in fair water. Weak pearlash water is good 
to remove stains of acids. 

To Extract Grease frojn Silks, Woolen Goods, Paper, and Floors. — 
Grate on them very thick French chalk, (common will answer, but it is 
not so good,) cover the spots with brown paper, and set on a moderately 
warm iron, and let it remain till cool. Care must be taken not to have 
the iron so hot as to scorch or change the color of the cloth. If the 
grease does not appear to be out, on removing the iron, grate on more 
chalk, heat the iron again, and put it on. Repeat the process till the 
grease is entirely out. Strong pearlash water, mixed with sand, or the 
washing fluid used in washing, will remove grease spots from floors, if 
well scrubbed. 

Another Method of Extracting Grease from, Cloth. — Take 5^ pint alcohol 
and add 10 grains carbonate of potash, \ ounce oil bergamot, and 1 ounce 
eulphuric ether; mix, and keep in a glass-stopped bottle. Apply with 
a piece of sponge, soaking the cloth thoroughlj' when the grease is not 
recent. The mixture emits a peculiarly fragrant odor, and being a fluid 
soap, chemically composed, will be found a perfect solvent for oily mat- 
ter. This, probably, is the best remedy extant for removing grease spots. 

Retnx}vinx) Stains. — Ox-gali is an excellent article for removing oil 
stains from delicate-colored fabrics. It often fixes and brightens colors, 
but will slightly soil pure white materials. Alcohol or strong whisky 
washes out stains of oil, wax, resin and pitchy or resinous substances; 
BO also does spirits of turpentine, and generally without injury to colors. 
The turpentine may afterward be removed with alcohol or whisky. 
Common burning fluid, which is a mixture of alcohol and turpentine, (or 
eamphenCj) is an excellent solvent of oil, wax, tar, resin, etc., and it soon 
dries off after use. Ink stains, or iron mold, may generally be removed 
with the juice of lemons or of sorrel leaves. If these fail, oxalic acid is 
almost infallible. Moisten the stain spots with water and rub on a little 
powdered oxalic acid, which can be cheaply obtained at any druggist's. 
Wash off the acid very thoroughly, soon after it is put on, or it will eat 
the fabric. If children are present, remember that oxalic acid is poison- 
ous in the mouth, though not so on the hands, if not kept long upon them. 

Moistening a cloth and holding it a few minutes over the fumes of 
burning sulphur will bleach out most colors and stains. Be careful not 
to burn the fabrics. The fumes may be conducted to any particular spot 
by a paper roller, in funnel shape, (or a common tin funnel,) held over the 
fumes of sulphur burning upon a shovel. The sulphur fumes are spe- 
cially applicable to stains of fruit, and of vegetable juices generally. 
These m».y frequently be removed by dipping the fabric in sour milk and 
2 



18 THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 

drying it in the sun, repeating the operation several times if needed. All 
oily substances (except paint oils,) can be expelled from carpets by holding 
a very hot iron as near as it can be placed without burning. Porous 
paper, or common brown paper laid upon a grease spot and run over sev- 
eral times with a hot sad-iron (flat-iron,) will absorb the oil. 

Ox-gall has been used from time immemorial, by jobbing dyers, for re- 
moving grease stains from delicate colored woolen fabrics. It is mixed 
"with cold water at the rate of about three gallons of water to the contents 
of one ox-gall. The fabric is immersed in this and squeezed between the 
hands, or slightly pounded until the stains are removed. The fabric must 
then be very thoroughly washed in cold water, for if any of the gall is 
left in it the odor becomes very offensive. Strong cold soap suds, or a 
"bath of dilute aqua ammonia, is preferable to ox-gall in cleaning such 
fabrics. 

Oxalic, acetic, or any other acid must never be used to remove ink and 
iron stains from any kind of cloth but that which is white, because these 
acids will discharge pink, lilac, and other colors. The best way to use 
oxalic acid to remove ink stains from white muslin is to put some of the 
crystals of the salt upon the stain — making a small bag of the cloth 
between the lingers — and pour some hot water upon them until they are 
dissolved, when the stain will have disappeared with the crystals of the 
acid. 

A mixture of alcohol and turpentine (burning fluid) is excellent for 
removing grease and other stains from light-colored gloves and silks. 
Benzole is also equally as good; but when using these substances beware 
of coming near a fire or a light of any kind, as they are very inflam- 
mable, and many painful accidents from burning have occurred by their 
careless use. 

To Remove Resin Spots from Silk. — Many silk dresses receive stains 
from turpentine being spilled upon them. These stains are due to the resin 
^vhich is held in solution by the turpentine, and which remains in the silk 
after the volatile or spirituous portion has evaporated. Alcohol, applied 
to the stains with a clean sponge, will remove the spots, because alcohol 
dissolves the resin. The silk stains should be moistened with the alcohol 
first, and allowed to remain soaked for a few minutes. Fresh alcohol is 
then applied with the sponge, and with a slight rubbing motion. It is 
then wiped as dry as possible and afterward permitted to dry perfectly 
in the open air. Alcohol also removes grease and oil spots from silk and 
woolen dresses, but oil generally leaves a yellow stain behmd. A mixture 
of alcohol and the refined light petroleum, called benzone, is excellent 
for cleaning light kid gloves, ribbons, and silks. It is applied with a clean 
sponge. Persons who apply these liquors and mixtures to cleaning silks, 
gloves, &c., must be careful to do so in an apartment where there is neither 
fire nor lamp burning, under the penalty of an explosion. 

To Remove Grease Spots from Wool. — In removing the grease from 
wool, use a very weak alkaline solution as a substitute for soap, because 
if the solution is too strong it will act chemically upon the wool, tending 
to dissolve it, and thus impair its strength and luster. 

Solvent for Old Fatty and Paint. — Soft soap mixed with a solution of 
potash or caustic soda; or pearlash and slaked lime mixed with sufllcient 
water to form a paste. Either of these, laid on with an old brush or rag, 
and left for some hours, will render it easily removable. 

To remove the stains on spoons caused by using them for boi'iod egg, 
take a little common salt, moist betwet'U the thumb and finger, a-id briskly 
rub the stain, which will soon disa])pcar 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 19 

To Clean Paint. — Smear a piece of flannel in common whiting, mixed 
to the consistency of common paste, in warm water. Kub the surface to 
be cleaned quite briskly, and wash off with pure cold water. Grease spots 
will, in this way, be almost instantly removed, as well as other filth, and 
the paint will retain its brilliancy and beauty unimpaired. 

To Remove Ink Stains. — As soon as the ink is spilled, take a little milk 
and saturate the stain , soak it up with a rag. and apply a little more milk, 
rubbing it well. In a few minutes the ink will be completely removed. 

To Remove Mildew. — Wet the cloth which contains the mildew with. 
Boft water; rub ft well with white soap, then scrape some fine chalk to 
powder, and rub it well into the cloth; lay it out on the grass in the sun- 
shine, watching it, to keep it damp with soft water. Repeat the process 
the next day, and in a few hours the mildew will all disappear. 

To Keep Silk. — Silk articles should not be kept folded in white paper, 
as the chloride of lime used in bleaching the paper will probably impair 
the color of the silk. Brown or blue paper is better; the yellowish smooth 
India paper is best of all. Silk intended for dress should not be kept long 
in the house before it is made up, as lying in the folds will have a ten- 
dency to impair its durabilit}'' by causing it to cut or split, particularly if 
the silk has been thickened by gum. Thread lace vails are very easily 
cut; satin and velvet being soft, are not easily cut, but dresses of velvet 
should not be laid by with any weight above them. If the nap of thin 
velvet is laid down, it is not possible to raise it up again. Hard silk 
should never be wrinkled, because the thread is easily broken in the 
crease, and it never can be rectified. The way to take the wrinkles out 
of silk scarfs or handkerchiefs is to moisten the surface evenly with a 
sponge and some weak glue, and then pin the silk with toilet pins around 
the selvages, on a mattress or feather bed, taking pains to draw out the 
silk as tight as possible. When dry, the wrinkles will have disappeared. 
The reason of this is obvious to every person. It is a nice job to dress 
light colored silk, and few should try it. Some silk articles may be moist- 
ened with weak glue or gum water, and the wrinkles ironed out on the 
wrong side by a hot flat iron. 

To Prevent the Ratmges of the Woolen Moth. — The ravages of the woolen 
moth may be prevented, in a measure, by the use of any of the following 
substances : camphor ; and perhaps the most agreeable for wearing ap- 
parel, a mixture of one ounce of cloves, one ounce of rhubarb, and one 
ounce of cedar shavings, tied up in a hag, and kept in a box or drawer. 
If the substance be dry, scatter it in the folds of the cloth, carpet, blankets,-J5*^ 
or furs; if liquid, scatter it freely in the boxes, or on the cloth or wrap- 
per, laid over and around it. 

To Remove Foul Air from Wells. — It is well known that many accidents 
occur to persons going down into wells to clean them, owing to the nox- 
ious gas in such places. To remove the gas before descent is made into 
any well, a quantity of burned but unslaked lime should be thrown down. 
This, when it comes in contact with whatever water is below, sets free a 
"great amount of heat in the water and lime, which rushes upward, carry- 
ing all the deleterious gases with it; after which descent may be made 
with perfect safety. The lime also absorbs carbonic acid in the well. 

Disinfectants. — 1. 1 pint of the liquor of chloride of zinc, in 1 pailful 
of water, and 1 pound of chloride of lime in another pailful of water. 
This is perhaps the most effective of any thing that can be used, and, when 
thrown upon decayed vegetable matter of any description, will eflfectually 
destroy all offensive odors. 2. 3 or 4 pounds of sulphate of iron (cop- 
peras j'dissolved in a pailful of water will, in many cases, be sufficient to 



20 THE house-keeper's guide. 

remove all offensive odors. 3. Chloride of lime is better to scatter about 
damp places, in yards, in damp cellars, and upon heaps of filth. 

A Cheap and Truthful Barometer. — Put a small quantity of finely pul- 
verized alum in a long, half-ounce phial, and fill it with spirits of wine; 
when the atmosphere is dry and clear, the spirits will he as clear as a crys- 
tal; hut, on the approach of rain or foul weather, the alum will rise in the 
center, in the form of a spiral cloud, which is an infallible indication of 
rain or bad weather. 

To Harden Lard or Tallow Candles. — To 5 pounds lard or tallow, add ^ 
pound each, alum and saltpeter, first dissolved in a little water; then boil 
together till the water all evaporates. 

Candles will burn much clearer, and the tallow will not "run," if you 
Steep the wicks in lime water and saltpeter, and then dry them. 

To Make Carynine. — Boil 1 pound 4 ounces of ground cochineal and a 
very little of the carbonate of soda in 4 gallons of soft water for twenty 
minutes ; then take it from the fire, and add 6 drachms of alum, and stir 
the mixture for a few minutes, and let it stand for a quarter of an hour 
for the dregs to subside ; then run ofl' the clear liquor; strain the sediment 
through a fine sieve or cloth, and then, when cold, add the whites of two 
eggs to the sediment ; fish-glue or isinglass will answer as well as the eggs. 
The muriate of tin may be used instead of alum. The weight of the 
cochineal may be reduced to any amount to make a small quantity, if the 
proportions arc preserved. 

Preventing the Fracture of Glass Chimneys. — The glass chimneys which 
are now in such extensive use, not only for oil lamps, but also for the 
burners of oil and coal gas, very frequently break, and not only expose 
to danger those who are near them, but occasion very great expense and 
inconvenience, particularly to those who are resident in the country. 
The breaking of these glasses very often arises from knots in the glass 
where it is less perfectly annealed, and also from an inequality of thick- 
ness at their lower end, which prevents them from expanding uniformly 
by heat. The evil arising from inequality of thickness may be cured by 
making a cut with a diamond in the bottom of the tube. 

Teeth Set on Edge. — All acid, foods, drinks, medicines, and tooth-washes 
and powders, are very injurious to the teeth. If a tooth is put in cider, 
vinegar, lemon juice, or tartaric acid, in a few hours the enamel will be 
completely destroyed, so that it can be removed by the finger nail as if 
it were chalk. Most people have experienced what is commonly called 
teeth Bet on edge. The explanation of it is, the acid of the fruit thiit has 
been eaten has so far softened the enamel of the tooth that the least pres- 
sure is felt by the exceedingly small nerves which pervade the thin mem- 
brane which connects the enamel and the bony part of the tooth. Such 
an effect can not be produced without injuring the enamel. True, it will 
become hard again, when the acid has been removed by the fluids of 
the mouth, just as an egg-shell that has been softened in this way becomes 
hard again by being put in the water. When the effect of sour fruit on 
the teeth subsides, they ivM\ as well as ever, but they are not as well. 
And the oftener it is repeated, the sooner the disastrous consequences 
will bo manfested. 

Yeast. — Those who are not in the neighborhood of bakers, and can not 
procure the fermentation called yeast, may make a better substitute as 
follows : boil 1 pound flour, \ pound brown sugar, and a little salt in 
2 gallons water for an hour. \Vhen milk-warm, bottle and cork it close, 
and it will be ready for use in t\veri,ty-f()ur hours. 

Preserving Faiiit'mgs. — JMany valuable paint-ings that are hung against 



THE HOUSE- keeper's GUIDE. 21 

Boiled walls of mnsonry, in churches and other buildings, are subjected to 
a damp atmosphere, and the canvas becomes moldy. Old pictures, which 
have become 1;lackened, are restored by washing them with deut-oxide 
of hydrogen, diluted in eight times its weight of water. The parts 
touched must be afterward wiped with a clean sponge and water. 

Curing Rancid Butter. — A correspondent of the Rural Register gives the 
following recipe for curing rancid butter : Eor 100 pounds rancid butter, 
take 2 pounds fine white powdered sugar ; 2 ounces saltpeter, finely pul- 
verized, and as much fine dairy salt as you wish to add to the butter to 
make it to your taste. The butter has to be thoroughlj^ washed in cold 
water before working in the above ingredients. The amount used should 
be in proportion to the strongness of the butter. 

To Preserve Milk. — Put a spoonful of horseradish into a pan of milk, 
and it will remain sweet for several days, either in the open air or in the 
cellar, while other milk will sour. 

Brilliant Whitewash. — Take half a bushel of nice unslaked lime ; slack 
it with boiling water, cover it during the process to keep in the steam. 
Strain the liquid through a fine sieve or strainer, and add to it a peck of 
clean salt, previously well dissolved in warm water; 3 pounds of ground 
rice, boiled to a thin paste, and stirred in boiling hot ; ^ pound powdered 
Spanish whiting, and 1 pint of clean glue, which has been previously 
dissolved by first soaking it well, and then hanging it over a slow fire, in 
a small kettle, with a large one filled with water. Add 5 gallons of hot 
water to the whole mixture, stir it well, and let it stand a few days covered 
from the dirt. It should be put on right hot; for this purpose, it can be 
kept in a kettle or a portable furnace. It is said that about 1 pint of this 
mixture will cover a square yard, if properly applied with a brush, as in 
painting. It answers as well as oil paint for wood, brick, or stone, and is 
the cheapest. It retains its brilliancy for many years. There is nothing 
of the kind that will compare with it, either for inside or outside walls. 
Coloring matter may be put in, and made of any shade you like. 

Spanish brown stirred in will make red or pink, more or less, according 
to the quantity. A delicate tinge of this is very pretty for inside walls. 
Finely pulverized common clay, well mixed with Spanish brown, before 
it is stirred into the mixture, makes a lilac color. Lampblack in moderate 
quantities makes a slate color, very suitable for the outside of buildings. 
Lampblack and Spanish brown, mixed together, produce a reddish stone 
color. Yellow ochre' stirred in makes yellow wash, but chrome goes 
farther, and makes a color generally esteemed prettier. In all these 
cases, the darkness of the shade will of course be determined by the quan- 
tity of coloring used. It is difiicult to make a rule, because tastes are 
very different ; it would be best to try experiments on a shingle, and let 
it dry. We have been told that green must not be mixed with lime. 
The lime destroys the color, and the color has an efl'ect on the whitewash, 
which makes it crack and peel. If a larger quantity than five gallons is 
wanted, the same proportion should be observed. 

Zinc ^ Wash for Rooms. — Mix oxide of zinc with common size, and 
apply it with a brush, like lime whitewash, to the ceiling of a room. 
After this, apply a wash, in the same manner, of the chloride of zinc, 
which will combine with the oxide and form a smooth cement with a 
shining surface. 

Preserving Butter. — Take two parts of the best common salt, one part 
of sugar, and one part of saltpeter, and blend the whole completely 
Take 1 ounce of this coinposition for 1 pound of butter; work it well 



22 THE house-keeper's guide. 

into a mass and close it up for use. Butter thus cured requires to stand 
three or four weeks before it is used. 

To Make Buttei^ Yellow, in Winter. — Just before the termination of 
churning, put in the yolks of eggs, and your butter will be as yellow 
as gold. 

Water-proof Oil Blacking — Take 2 ounces yellow beeswax, shaved 
fine, and 2 ounces pulverized resin, and melt' in ^ pound currier's oil 
(lard will do,) over a slow fire, then add ^ pound fresh tallow and con- 
tinue the heat till all are thoroughly incorporated. Apply this compound 
freely to all parts, the soles as well as the uppers, and dry in, by a mod- 
erate heat. Eepeat the process as long as the leather will absorb the 
grease, and you will not be troubled with damp feet. While this com- 
pound is sufficiently water-proof, it does not, like India-rubber, and 
other compounds used for the same purpose, completely close the pores 
of the leather, making it impervious to the air, and thereby causing it 
to decay, but tends to preserve it to a period of double its natural wear. 
The process of alternately wetting and drying leather (by going out in 
wet weather and then drying) causes it do decay much sooner than it 
otherwise would; and if completely saturated with this composition 
two or three times before much worn, then occasionally afterward, so 
as to fill up the pores, and keep out the water, it would last twice as 
long. _ 

Polish for Old Furniture. — Take 1 pint alcohol; \ pint linseed oil; 1 
ounce powdered gum arable; |- ounce tincture red saunders; \ ounce 
bergamot. Put it on with cotton flannel, then rub it hard with another 
dry piece. 

Another. — Dissolve beeswax in turpentine, and apply same way. 

To Prevent Plies from Pijurmg Picture frames. Glasses, etc. — Boil three 
or four onions in 1 pint of water; then, with a gilding brush do over your 
glass and frames, and the flies will not alight on tlie articles so washed. 
This maybe used without apprehension, and it will not do the least injury 
to the frames. 

To Clean Silver and Britannia. — Use whiting, finely-powdered, and 
moistened with alcohol. 

To Make Cloth Fire-Proof. — Take 2J pounds sugar of lead, ^ pound 
litharge, and boil them for half an hour in 4 gallons water, Avhen the liquor 
is allowed to settle. Any quantity of the clear fluid that will sufiice to 
cover the cloth to be operated upon, is now taken, and the cloth immersed 
and freely saturated in it; then dried in the open air. 

The cloth is now immersed in a hot and moderately strong solution of 
silicate of soda, then thoroughly washed in cold water, and dried. Chil- 
dren's clothes prepared in this way will not take fire. 

Porous Water- Proof Cloth. — This quality is given to cloth by simply 
passing it through a hot solution of weak glue and alum. This is what 
is done by paper-makers to make writing paper, the very thing which 
constitutes the difference between it and blotting paper, only on cloth the 
nap like the fur of a beaver, will preserve the cloth from being wet through, 
»8 the rain will not adhere, but trickle ofl" as soon as it falls, and moisture 
•tyill not adhere at all. 

To apply it to the cloth, make up a weak solution of glue, and while it 
vd hot, add a piece of alum, about an ounce to two quarts, and then brush 
It over the surface of the cloth while it is hot, and it is afterward dried, 
(.'loth in pieces may be run through this solution, and then wrung out of 
it and dried. By adding a few pieces of soap to the glue the cloth will 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 23 

feel much softer. Goods in pieces may be run through a tubful of weak 
g^utf, (foup, and alum, and squeezed between rollers. Tms would be a cheap 
and expeditious mode of preparing them. Woolen goods are prepared 
by brushing them with the above mixture, first on the inside, then with 
the grain or nap of the cloth, after which it is dried. It is best to dry 
this first in the air, and then in a stove room, at a low heat, but allow the 
cloth to remain for a considerable time, to expel the moisture completely. 
This kind of cloth, while it is sufficiently water-proof to keep out moisture 
and rain — being quite impervious to water — is pervious to the air. Many 
fishermen know that by boiling their pants, jackets, nets, and sails in a 
pot with oak bark and fish skins, and afterward drying them, they become 
waterproof. The composition mentioned above is of nearly the same 
nature as the fish-glue and oak bark, and, consequently, the same efiects 
are produced. The composition is stated to be improved by adding about 
one-fourth the quantity of the sulphate of copper to the alum. Cloth 
made waterproof in this manner will resist the effects of water even if it 
is somewhat warm, but it loses its waterproof properties if boiled. Per- 
sons who are exposed to the inclemency of the weather will find it to their 
advantage, as a means of preserving health, to prepare their clothes in the 
way we have described. Several corps in the Prench army are provided 
with porous water-proof cloth tunics prepared in a similar manner. 
They have been found very beneficial when the troops are in active 
service. 

Another. — Take 2\ pounds of alum, and dissolve this in 10 gallons of 
boiling water; then, in a separate vessel, dissolve the same quantity of 
sugar of lead in 10 gallons of water, and mix the two solutions. The 
cloth is now well handled in this liquid until every part of it is penetrated; 
then it is squeezed and dried in the air, or in a warm apartment, then 
washed in cold water and dried again, when it is left for use. If neces- 
sary, the cloth may be dipped in the liquid and dried twice before being 
washed. The liquor appears curdled when the alum and lead solutions 
are mixed together. This is the result of double decomposition ; the 
sulphate of lead, which is an insoluble salt, being formed. The sulphate 
of lead is taken up in the pores of the cloth, and it is unafiected by rain 
or moisture; and yet it does not render the cloth air-tight. Such cloth 
is also partially non-inflcimmable. A solution of alum itself will render 
cloth, prepared as described, partially waterproof; but it is not so good 
as the sulphate of lead. Such cloth — cotton or woolen — sheds rain like 
the feathers on the back of a duck. 

To Soften Hard Water. — Dissolve 1 pound of sal soda in 1 gallon of boil- 
ing water, and to this add f pound of fresh burned and slaked lime; 
agitate these together, and allow the water to rest for sediment to settle. 
The clear liquor is next poured ofl", and forms a caustic ley. A little of 
this ley is now placed in a glass tumbler, and a few drops of hydrochlo- 
ric (muriatic) acid are added. If the liquor effervesces, a little more acid 
must be added. The acid is a test, and when the ley ceases to eflervesce 
by adding a few drops of the acid, it is a sign that it is fit for use. This 
caustic ley will precipitate sulphates and carbonates in hard water, and 
render the latter soft and fit for feeding into boilers, or for washing pur- 
poses. A certain quantity of this ley is requisite to treat a certain quan- 
tity of hard water, and the way to determine this is as follows : Take a 
gallon of hard water to be softened ; add 1 ounce of the prepared ley to it, 
and allow the sediment to settle for ten minutes ; now add another ounce 
of the ley, and if no fiocculent material, or precipitate, appears, it is a 
sign that one ounce of the ley will purify one gallon of the hard water. 



24 THE house-keeper's guide. 

The ley must "be added until all the earthy impurities in the water arc 
thrown down. Fi'onx these data, a calculation can be made for thousanda 
of gallons. Thus, for a 10-horse power boiler, 600 gallons of water will 
be required in 10 hours, and 3f gallons of this ley will be required to 
purify it. This should be done in a setting tank, and the purified water 
run oft" into a supply cistern for feeding the boiler. The water must not 
"be rendered caustic, or it will act on the metal. 

Fleas on Dogs. — I have found the following receipt most efiectual in kill- 
ing fleas on dogs, viz.: to rub them well over with whisky; it acts like 
magic, killing them insianter; if all are not polished oft" in one application, 
another will be necessary. 

To Brighien Brass. — The pickle which is employed for brightening brass 
is made with equal parts of nitric and muriatic acids, diluted with four tinjes 
their bulk of water. Sulphuric acid, diluted with three times its weight 
of water, and used hot, also makes a good brightening pickle for brass, 
■which must be thoroughly washed in hot water afterward, and then dried 
in warm saw-dust. 

To Keep Metals froin Rusting. — A most excellent oil to preserve the locks 
of guns and bright iron from rusting, may be made as follows : Take 
some refined petroleum, and add about ten per cent, in measure, of castor 
oil, and stir together well, and it is ready for use. This is also a good 
lubricating oil for machinery. 

To Brown Gun-Barrels. — Take tincture of iodine, and dilute with ^ its 
bulk wuth water ; apply it to the surface of the barrel with a clean rag ; 
let it stand about six hours ; then brush the metal, rub it over with some 
beeswax dissolved in turpentine, and it is done. 

To Prevent Skippers in Ham. — Keep your smokehouse perfectly dark, 
and the moth which deposits the egg will never enter it. Smoke with, 
green hickory wood, and the flavor will be much better than by any 
other. 

To Prevent Frost. — Frost can only occur where the atmosphere is dry 
and clear. Have a pile of straw or unj other refuse matter, on hand, 
near your garden or orchard, and when there is any sign of frost, wet it 
and set it on fire about sundown, and the smoke and wind which it will 
create will etfectually keep away all frost, especially if the fires be built 
on several sides of the area to be protected. 

A Substitute for Coffee. — Take a peck of rye and cover it with water, 
let it steep or boil until the grain swells, or commences to burst ; then 
drain and dry it. Now roast to a deep-brown color, and prepare as other 
cofiee, allowing twice the time for boiling, This alone makes a very 
good coifee ; but if mixed with equal parts of carrots or beets, sliced thin 
and dried in an oven till brown, it will make an article but little, if any, 
inferior to the genuine. 

To Exterminate Ra.ts. — Take about one-half a tea-cupful of potash, and 
wrap it in cotton batten, and place it in the holes in your cellars, and 
stop them up. They will take the batten to build nests, and burn their 
feet with the potasb, whereupon they will quit the premises instanter. 

Another. — Take equal parts of powdered nux vomica and oatmeal, and 
mix them thoroughly together, and put the mixture a short distance 
from the holes. 

Poison Balls for Rats and Roaches. — Put a drachm of phosphorus in a 
bottle along witli two ounces of water: cork it, and plunge it into a ves- 
sel of boiling water till the phosphorus is dissolved; then pour it into a 
mortar along with 3 ounces of lard, and rub it briskly, adding some 
•water, about half a pound of flour, and 2 ounces of sugar. The whole ia 



THE HOLSE-KEEPER'S GUIDE. 25 

made into a paste, and divided into balls about the size of marbles. This 
is laid down on the floor, or shelves, for rats, cockroaches, or other ver- 
min, who eat and are destroyed. For rats, cheese is better than sugar, 
and tallow better than lard. The cockroaches are fond of any thing 
sweet ; hence sugar is a bait for them. Potatoes will answer as well as 
the flour. These balls should be laid down at night, and carefully lifted 
in the morning, taking care not to let any be touched by a child. They 
should be locked up through the day. 

To Destroy Cockroaches and other Vermin. — An infallible means of de- 
stroying cockroaches, beetles, &c., is to strew the roots of black hellebore 
on the floor at night. Next morning the whole family of these insects 
will be found either dead or dying, for such is their avidity for the poison- 
ous plant, that they never fail to eat it, when they can get it. Black hel- 
lebore grows in marshy grounds, and may be had at all herb-shops. 

To Preserve Eggs. — Take 1 pint of good salt, 1 pint of slaked iime, and 
dissolve in 3 gallons of water. Put your eggs in this pickle, and keep 
them covered with it, and in a cool cellar. 

Another. — Put your eggs in a basket, sieve, colander, or in a piece of 
thin muslin, and dip them into boiling water, and let them remain till 
you can count twenty. This forms a thin skin inside the shell, which 
makes them impervious to the air. Now pack them with the little end 
down, and keep in a cool place. If packed in salt, after having been 
subjected to this treatment, they will keep good two years. 

How to Catch all the Fish you Want. — Take the juice of smallage or 
lovage, and mix it with any kind of bait. Bait your hooks and go to 
fishing, and you will catch all the fish you need. A few drops of oil of 
rhodium is also good. 

Another. — Take cocculus indicus, pulverize, and mix with dough; then 
scatter broadcast over the water. This will be seized with great avidity 
by the fish, which will so completely intoxicate them that they will turn 
belly up on the surface of the water by hundreds. Now have a boat ready, 
and pick up what you want, and put them in a tub of fresh water, and in 
a few minutes they will be all right again. 

How to Catch Wild Geese and other Wild Fowls Alive. — Soak wheat or 
other grain in strong alcohol or whisky, and strew it plentifully where 
they frequent, and it will intoxicate them so you can go up and catch 
them alive. Of course, they will have to be watched, so as to take them 
soon after eating. 

Sealing- Wax /or Bottles, Fruit-Cans, ^'c. — Melt together 6 ounces resin, 
2 ounces shellac, 4 ounces Venice turpentine, and color with lampblack. 

A Substitute for a Carpet. — Save all your old newspapers, and when 
you get enough for the purpose, make a paste, same as for putting on the 
wall, and lay them down, one by one, till your floor is covered. Let it 
dry; then lay down another coating in the same way. When again dry, 
get some good wall paper, of suitable color, and paste all over it. When 
dry, go over it with a good coat of varnish, and ycu will have a nice 
covering for your floor, which will wear as long as a carpet, and look as 
well as oil-cloths. This is a cheap method of covering bedroom floors, 
and other rooms which are not much used. When required to be cleaned, 
"wipe it off with a wet cloth. 



CULINARY DEPARTMENT. 



Geyieral Remarks on Bread. — In order to secure good bread, it ig the 
best economy to purchase the best flour, even at a greater cost. Newly- 
ground flour, which has never been packed, is much superior to barrel- 
flour. Indian meal, also, is much the best when freshly ground. 

No one thing is of more importance in making bread than thoroughly 
kneading it. When bread is taken out of the oven hot, never set flat on 
a table, as it sweats the bottom, and acquires a bad taste from the wood. 
Take it out of the tins, wrap it in clean linen, and set it up on the end 
till cool. If it has a thick, hard crust, first wrap it with a wet cloth, 
then a dry one over it, and let it sweat till it becomes soft. 

Wheat Bread. — Take 2 quarts of wheat flour, half a cup of molasses, a 
tea-cupful of lively yeast, mixed up with warm water; let it stand in a 
warm place an hour and a half; if necessary, add a little saleratus; bake 
an hour and a half. 

Salt-rising Bread. — Take a little warm water, with a little salt in it, and 
mix with enough flour to make about a quart of batter (it will ri^e quicker 
with a handful of meal stirred in), and set in warm water, near the stove, 
where it will keep moderately warm. When it rises and comes up, near 
the point of running over, mix your bread, place in tins, and set near the 
stove to rise. When it comes up light, put in a hot oven, and bake till 
well done. Some prefer molding it over after it comes up, and then re- 
rising before baking. 

Brown Bread. — Put the Indian meal in your bread-pan ; sprinkle a lit- 
tle salt among it, and wet it thoroughl}^ with scalding water. When it 
is cool, put in your rye, add 2 gills of lively yeast, and mix it with water 
as stiff as you can knead it. Let it stand an hour and a half, in a cool 
place in summer, on the hearth in winter. It should be put into a very 
not oven, and baked three or four hours. 

Rye and, Jndia7i Bread. — Take about 2 quarts of Indian meal, and scald 
it; then add as much rye meal, a tea-cupful of molasses, half a pint of 
lively yeast. If the yeast be sweet, no saleratus is necessary'. If sour, 
put in a little ; let it stand from one to two hours, till it rises; then bake 
it about three hours. 

Light Biscuit. — Ten pounds flour, a pint of buttermilk, half a tea-spoon- 
ful of saleratus; put into the buttermilk a small piece of butter, or lard, 
rubued into the flour ; make it about the consistency of bread before baking. 

Bread Biscuit. — Three pounds flour, half a pint of Indian meal, a lit- 
tle butter, 2 spoonfuls of lively yeast; set it before the fire, to rise over 
night ; mix it with warm water. 

Rolls. — Warm an ounce of butter in half a pint of milk, then add a 
gpoonful and a half of yeast, and a little salt. Put 2 pounds of flour in a 
pan, and mix in the above ingredients. Let it rise an hour, or over 
night, in a cool place; knead it well, and make into seven rolls, and 
bake them in quick oven. Add half a tea-spoonful of saleratus just aa 
you put into the baker. 

Short Rolls. — Take about 5 pounds of flour, and a piece of butter half 
the size of an egg, two spoonfuls of yeast, and mix it with warm milk; 
make it into a light dough, and let it stand by the lire all night; should ii 
•our, put in a iitliu saleratus. Jiuke in a quick ovou. 

26 



THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 



PUDDINGS. 



Bread Pudding. — Take thin slices of bread (that which is a little dry is 
\3\36i) and put them in layers in your pan ; now take a sufficient quantity 
of njilk, eggs, and sugar, which has previously been well beaten together, 
and turn on till the bread is all well covered, then put in a hot oven and 
bake till well done. By no means ever beat or stir your bread all up 
like m us 3 before it is baked, as it makes it heavy, and unfit to be eaten; 
but pour your milk, eggs, etc., on, and then bake without disturbing it. 
Add butter and fruit if you like. 

Baked Rice Pudding. — Take a large coflTee-cup of rice, and gradually heat 
on the stove in three pints of milk, for an hour or more; now beat up 4 
eggs with another pint of milk, in which you have put sugar, seasoning, 
etc., and stir in and bake in a quick oven, three-quarters of an hour. 

Baked Indian Pudding. — First make your meal into a boiled mush, then 
add your milk, eggs, sugar, and seasoning, well beat together, and bake 
Bame as rice or bread pudding. 

Another — Always Good. — One quart of milk, 4 eggs, 5 large tea-spoon- 
fuls of Indian meal, nutmeg and sugar to your taste. Boil the milk, and 
Bcald the Indian meal in it; then let it cool before you add the eggs. 
Bake three-quarters of an hour. 

Cottage Pudding. — One pint-bowl flour, one teacup milk, one egg, half 
teacup sugar, one teaspoon soda dissolved in the milk, two teaspoons 
cream tartar rubbed in the flour. Bake twenty minutes or half an hour. 
Sauce. 

Poor Man^s Pudding. — Two quarts milk, one cup uncooked rice, half 
cup sugar, piece of butter size of walnut, 2 teaspoons salt. Spice to taste. 
Bake 3 hours, and stir several times during the first hours. 

Apple Sago Pudding. — One cup sago, in water enougli to swell it, i. e., 
about 6 cups. Put it on the stove and swell it. In the meantime stew 
10 or 12 apples, mix with the s\yelled sago, and bake three-quarters of an 
hour. Eat with cream and sugar, or wine sauce. 

Wedding Cake Pudding. — Two-thirds of a cup of butter, 1 cup of mo- 
lasses, 2 cups of milk, 2 teaspoons of saleratus, 4 eggs, 2 pounds of raisins, 
stoned and chopped, 1 pound of currants, \ of a pound of citron. Flour 
to make a batter as thick as pound-cake; salt and all sorts of spices. Boil 
or steam five hours. To be eaten with wine sauce. 

Saieyn Pudding . — One cup suet, chopped fine; one cup molasses, one cup 
milk, one teaspoon soda, three and a half cups flour, two teaspoons cream 
tartar, one cup raisins, one teaspoon cloves, a little salt. Steam three 
hours. AVine sauce. 

Carrie s Apple Pudding. — Half pint milk, one ^%'g.i and flour to make a 
pretty stiff" batter; a little salt. Fill your pudding-dish with sliced apples, 
pour your batter over them, and steam three hours. Sauce. 

Green Corn Pudding. — Take half a dozen ears of green sweet corn, 
(good size,) and with a sharp pointed knife split each row of kernels, 
and scrape from the ear. Mix with this pulp 2 eggs, well beaten, 2 
tablespoons sugar, 1 of butter, 1 saltspoon of salt, \ pint sweet cream, 
(milk may be substituted, with an extra spoonful of butter,) and one 
dozen crackers, grated or pounded very fine. Mix well together, and 
bake three hours, if in a pudding-dish — or two, in custard cups. Use the 
corn raw. 

Baked Plum- Pudding. — Two quarts milk, ten soft crackers, eight eggs, 
one pound stoned raisins. Spice to taste. Bake from three to four hours, 
tiuuce. 



28 THE house-keeper's guide. 

Sunderland Piiddi7ig, No. 1. — One quart milk, four eggs, six tablespoons 
flour, a little salt. Bake in cups twenty minutes. Sauce. 

Sunderland Pudding^ No. 2.— One pint milk, one pint flour, three eggs, 

Stilt. 

QuaJcing Phim Ptidding.—Ttxke slices of light bread, spread thin with 
butter, and lay in a pudding-dish layers of this bread, and raisins, till 
within an inch of the top. Add 5 eggs, well beaten, and a quart of 
milk, and pour over the padding; salt and spice to taste. Bake it twenty 
or twenty-five minutes, and eat with liquid sauce. Before using the 
raisins, boil them in a little water, and put it all in. 

Mrs. Westo?i's Baked Indian Pudding.— Tal^e 6 table-spoonfuls of meal, 
and stir molasses or sirup enough in it to have the meal all wet, and no 
more;_ that will sweeten enough: then take 1 quart of milk, and boil it; 
pour it boiling hot on the meal ; stir the meal while pouring the milk on 
to it, so as not to make it lumpy. Stir in 3 table-spoonfuls of wheat flour, 
wet with a little cold milk; salt and spice to the taste, and bake two 
hours; and it will be equal to any meal pudding with eggs and suet that 
can be made. 

Fig Puddiyig. — Half pound of figs, J pound of flour, two eggs, ^ pound 
of suet, a little sugar, and a little wine, salt, and various spices." To be 
boiled in a tin shape for four hours, 

Mrs. Hamliiis Pudding. — One pint sweet milk, 1 tea-spoonful soda, J 
cup molasses, 2 cups Indian meal, 1 cup flour. Steam two hours. 

Bird's-Nest Pudding. — Put into 3 pints of boiling milk 6 crackers, 
pounded fine, and 1 cup of raisins; when cool, add 4 eggs, Avell beaten, a 
little sugar, and four good-sized apples, pared and cored. To be baked 
and eaten with warm sauce. 

Carrot Pudding. — Half pound grated carrot, half pound grated potato, 
half pound suet chopped tine, half pound flour, spices of all sorts, salt, 
raisins, and citron to taste. Steam five hours. To be eaten with wine 
sauce. 

Co7m Starch Pudding. — Let those who are fond of good dessert puddings 
get the Oswego Corn Starch, and make according to the directions accom- 
panying each package. An excellent diet for the sick. 

Tapioca Pudding. — Six table-spoonfuls of tapioca, one quart of milk, 
three eggs, sugar and spice to your taste ; heat the milk and tapioca mod- 
erately ; bake it one hour. 

Mrs. Meachani s Boiled Indian Pudding. — Two cups Indian meal, twc 
cups flour, one egg, half cup molasses, one teaspoon soda, two teaspoons 
cream tartar. "Wet with milk till about as thick as cake. Steam three 
hours. Is ever lift the cover while it is cooking, or it will not be light. 
Sauce. 

Mrs. H.s Berry Pudding. — Coflee-cup sweet milk, one-third cup mo- 
lasses, one egg, a little salt, a little saleratus, three and a half teacups 
flour. Beat all with a spoon. Flour, three pints berries, and stir in with 
a knife. Steam three hours. Sauce. 

Madayyie P:s Puddiyig Satice. — Large coflee-cup powdered sugar, quar- 
ter pound butter. Beat together very light; then add one egg.^ but do not 
beat much after the egg is in. Stir in one glass of wine. Take oft' the 
tea-kettle cover, set the sauce in, and let it melt till as thick as cream, 
stirring it occasionally. 

Hasty Puddiyig. — Jioil water, a quart, three pints, or two quarts, accord- 
ing to the size of your family; sift your meal, stir five or six spoonfuls 
of it thoroughly into a bowl of water; when the water in the kettle boils, 
pour into it the contents of the bowl; stir it well and let it boil up thick* 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 29 

put in salt to suit your own taste, then stand over the kettle, and sprinkle 
in meal, hundfu' after handful, stirring it very thoroughly all the time, 
and letting it boil between whiles. When it is so thick that you stir it with 
diflSculty, it is about right. It takes about half an hour's cooking. Eat 
it with milk or molasses. Either Indian meal or rye meal may be used. 
If the system is in a restricted state, nothing can be better than rye hasty 
pudding and good molasses. This diet would save many a one the horrors 
of dyspepsia. 

A Good Sauce for Baked Puddings,— Take 1 pint of water, a large tea- 
cup of sugar, piece of butter size of a large egg, a little nutmeg and es- 
sence of lemon, and bring to a boil. Now take a little flour, or corn-starch, 
(which is best,) well beat into a paste, and thinned, and stir in gradually, 
till of the consistency of cream, or as thick as you like; then add a large 
table-spoonful of vinegar or brandy. 

Sauce for Boiled Puddings.— ^qwaX parts of butter and white sugar 
well beaten together, till it becomes light ; then seasoned with -^utmeg, and 
wine or brandy. 



PIES AND PASTKY. 

Common Paste for Pies. — Take a quantity of flour proportioned to the 
number of pies you wish to make, then rub in some lard and salt, and 
stir it with cold water; then roll it out, and spread on some lard, and 
scatter over some dry flour; then double it tv-^ether, and cut it to pieces, 
and roll it to the thickness you wish to use it. 

Good common Pie Crust. — Allow one hand as full of flour as you can 
take it up for each pie; and for each three handfuls, allow two heaping 
spoonfuls of lard or butter; rub in a part, as directed, and roll in the rest. 

Cream Crust. — This is the most healthy pie crust that is made. Take 
cream, sour or sweet, add salt, and stir in flour to make it stiff: if the 
cream is sour, add saleratus in proportion of one tea-spoonful to a pint; 
if sweet, use very little saleratus. Mold it as little as you can. 

Rich Puff Paste. — Weigh an equal quantity of butter with as much 
fine flour as you judge necessary, mix a little of the former with the lat- 
ter, and wet it with as little butter as will make it into a stift" paste. 
Roll it out, and put all the butter over it in slices, turn in the ends, and 
roll it thin; do this twice, and touch it no more than can possible bo 
avoided. 

Pa.'ite for a Good Dumpling. — Rub into a pound of flour six ounces of 
butter; then work it into a paste, with two well-beaten eggs and a little 
water. If you bake this paste, a large table-spoonful of loaf sugar may 
be added to it. 

Paste for Family Pies. — Rub into one pound and a half of flour half 
a pound of butter ; wet it with cold water sufiicient to make a stifl" paste, 
work it well, and roll it out two or three times. 

Plain Mince Pies. — These may be made of almost any cheap pieces of 
meat, boiled till tender; add suet or salt pork chopped very fine; two- 
thirds as much apple as meat; sugar and spice to your taste. If mince 
pies are eaten cold, it is better to use salt pork than suet. A lemon and 
a little syrup of sweetmeats will greatly improve them. Clove is the 
most important spice. 

A'pple Mince Pies. — To twelve apples chopped fine, add six beaten eggs, 
and half a pint of cream. Put in spice, sugar, raisins or currants, just as 
you would for meat mince j^ies. They are very good. 



30 THE house-keeper's guide. 

Cherry Pies. — The coinnion red cherry makes the best pie. A larg* 
deep dish is best. Use sugar in the proportion directed for black- 
berries. 

Whortleberry or Blackberry Pies. — Fill the dish not quite even full, 
and to each pie of the size of a soup phite, add four large spoonfuls of 
sugar, for blackberries and blueberries; dredge a very little flour over tho 
fruit before you lay on the upper crust. 

Apple Pie. — Peel the apples, slice them thin, pour a little molasses, and 
sprinkle some sugar over them; grate on some lemon peel or nutmeg. If 
you \vis>h to make richer, put a little butter on the top. 

Cocoa Nut Pie. — One good-sized cocoa-nut peeled and grated, 1 quart 
of milk sweetened like custard, a piece of butter the size of a walnut in 
each pie; four eggs to the quart. 

Mince Pies. — Meat finely chopped, five pounds; good apples, 7 pounds; 
sugar, 3 pounds; raisins, 3 pounds; currant jelly, 1 pound; butter, 4 
ounces; mace or cinnamon, 1 ounce. When this is prepared, make a crust 
of two-thirds the usual quantity of lard, and one-third of fat salt pork, 
very finely chopped ; all of which should be rubbed in flour and wet with 
cold water. Bake in a slow oven one hour. 

Pineapple Pie. — Pare and grate large pineapples, and to every teacup 
of grated pineapple, add half a tea-cupful of fine white sugar; turn the 
pineapple and sugar into dishes lined with paste; put a strip of the paste 
around the dish; cover the pie with paste, wet and press together the 
edges of the paste; cut a slit in the center of the cover, through which the 
vapor may escape. Bake thirty minutes. 

Augustas Lemon Pie. — Juice and grated rind of three lemons, 3 eggs, 
and three tablespoons sugar to a lemon. Bake in pufl* paste. 

Mrs. C.'s Pumpkin Pie. — Stew a large-sized pumpkin in about 1 pint 
of water till dry, sift through a colander; add 2 quarts milk scalded, 6 
eggs, heaped tablespoon ginger, half as much cinnamon, 2 coflfee-cups 
molasses, 2 coflee-cups sugar, 2 teaspoons salt. Bake in a pretty hot oven, 
one hour at least. 

Jane P.s Lemon Cream Pie. — One cup sugar, 1 cup water, 1 raw potato, 
grated, juice, grated rind of 1 lemon; bake in pastry top and bottom. 
This will make one pie. 

Dedhani Cream Pie. — Bake your paste not too rich, in a common pio 
plate /zrsi^. Boil 1 pint of milk; when boiling, stir in half cup flour, one 
cup of sugar, and the yolks of two eggs; beat well together. Cook long 
enougli not to have a raw taste; add juice and grated rind of one lemon, 
and a little salt; beat the whites of the 2 eggs, with a cup of sugar, to a 
stiflT froth; spread over the pie when filled, and brown in the oven. 

German Puffs. — One pint milk, five eggs, two ounces butter, ten spoon- 
fuls flour. Bake in cups. Sauce. 

Rhubarb Pie. — Take the tender stalks of rhubarb, strip oflf the skin, and 
cut the stalks into very thin slices. Line deep the plates with pie crust, 
then put in the rhubarb in layers, each layer to be covered with a thick 
coating of sugar. Put on your crust, press it down tight around the edge 
of the plate, and ]jrick the crust with a fork, so it will not burst in bakiiiir, 
and let out the juices of the pie. Bake in a slow oven, ISIever stew rhu- 
barb for pics before baking. 

Custard Pie. — For a large pie, put in three eggs, a heaping table-spoon- 
ful of sugar, one pint and a half of milk, a little salt, and some nutmeg 
grated on. For crust, use common pastry. 

Rice Pie. — Boil youi" i-ice soft; put one egg to each pie, one table-spoon- 
ful of sugar, a little salt, and nutmeg. 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 3J 

Lemon Pie. — Take one lemon and a half, cut them up fine, one cup of 
molasses, half a cup of sugar, two eggs; mix them together; prepare your 
plate, with a crust in the bottom; put in half the materials, lay over a 
crust; then put in the rest of the materials, and cover the whole with 
another crust. 

CUSTARDS. 

In making custards always avoid stale eggs. Never put eggs in very 
hot milk, as it will poach them. Always boil custards in a vessel set in 
boiling water. 

Boiled Custards. — Boil a quart of milk with a bit of cinnamon and half 
a lemon peel; sweeten it with nice white sugar; strain it, and when a Ut- 
ile cooled, mix in gradually seven well-beaten eggs, and a table-spoonful 
of rose-water; stir all together over a slow fire till it is of proper thick- 
ness, and then pour it into your glasses. This makes good boiled custards. 

Another Way. — Take six eggs, leave out the whites, mix your eggs and 
sugar together, with some rose-water; then boil a pint of rich milk, and 
put in the eggs; let it simmer a minute or two, and stir it, to prevent its 
curdling. 

Baked Custard. — Two quarts of milk, twelve eggs, twelve ounces of 
sugar, four spoonfuls of rose-water, one nutmeg. 

Cream Custard. — Eight eggs, beat, and put into two quarts of cream ; 
sweeten to taste; add nutmeg and cinnamon. 

Custard to turn out. — Mix with the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, a 
pint of new milk, half an ounce of dissolved isinglass; sweeten with loaf 
sugar, and stir over a slow fire till it thickens ; pour it into a basin, and 
stir it till a little cooled ; then pour into cups, to turn out when quite cold. 
Add spice as you like, to the beaten eggs. 

CAKE. 

Composition Cahe. — Two and a quarter pounds of flour, one and three- 
quarter pounds of sugar, one and a half pounds of butter, three pounds 
of fruit, six eggs, one pint of milk, one cup of molasses, two glasses of 
wine, two glasses of brandy, two teaspoons saleratus. Cloves, cinnamon, 
nutmeg, &c. 

Spice Cake.— One pound flour, one pound sugar, Iralf pound butter, four 
eggs, teacup cream, teaspoon soda, teaspoon cloves, one nutmeg, tea- 
spoon cinnamon, one pound raisins, one glass wine or brandy. 

Cream Cake. — One teacup cream, two teacups sugar, three well-beaten 
eggs, teaspoon saleratus dissolved in wineglass of milk, piece butter, size 
half an egg, flour to make as thick as pound cake; add raisins, and spice 
to taste; wine and brandy, if you like. 

Giv (jerbread.— Ot\q pound flour, half pound sugar, the yolks of three 
eggs, half pound of butter ; ginger to taste. 

Laura Kcene' s Jelly Cake. — One teacup of sugar, one teacup of milk, 
two teaspoon of cream of tartar, one pint of flour, one teaspoons of soda, 
one egg, one tablespoon of melted butter; salt, spice, and bake in thin 
sheets; when baked, spread jelly of any sort between the sheets. This 
receipt makes one cake, in three small divisions. 

A FJdladelphia Spoige Cake. — Take ten eggs, one pound sugar, half 
pound flour, and lemon juice, or extract, to flavor. Beat the whites to a 
stifl' froth, warm and sift the flour; stir the yolks and sugar together, till 
light, and add the whites and flour, half at a time, alternately. Stir the 
whole gently, till bubbles v\^ to ihe surface. Bake in a modern oven. 



32 THE house-keeper's guide. 

Cider CaJce. — Two pounds flour, half pound butter, one pound sugar, 
teaspoon saleratus, dissolved in one pint of cider; fruit and spice to taste. 

An Excellent Flam Tea Cake. — 1 cup of white sugar, half a cup of but- 
ter, 1 cup of sweet milk, 1 egg, one-half tea-spoonful of soda, 1 of cream 
tartar, and flour enough to make it like soft gingerbread. Flavor with 
the juice of a small lemon. This makes one good-sized loaf. 

Another Fruit Cake. — 1| pounds of sugar, li pounds of flour, f pounds 
of butter, 6 eggs, 1 tea-spoon of soda, 1 glass of wine, 1 of brandy, and as 
much fruit and spice as you can afibrd, and no more. 

Doughnuts. — 2 cups sugar, 2 cups milk, 1 teaspoon saleratus, 3 eggs, 
and a piece of butter half as large as a small hen's egg. 

Crullers. — 6 tablespoons melted butter, 6 tablespoons sugar, 6 eggs, 
and flour to roll. 

Gingerbread Loaf. — 1 pound of flour, 1 pound of treacle, \ pound of 
butter, 1 egg, 1 ounce of ginger, some candied peel, and a few caraway- 
seeds, ground^ a tea-spoonful of soda. To be baked in a slow oven. The 
flour to be mixed in gradually; the butter and treacle to be milk-warm; 
the soda to be put in last. Let it stand half an hour, to rise. 

Corn-Starch Cake. — ^ pound sugar, 4 ounces butter, 5 eggs, 1 tea-spoon- 
ful cream tartar, \ a tea-spoonful of soda, ^ pound of corn-starch, ^ a gill 
of sweet milk. 

Short Cake. — 3 pounds flour, ^ pound of butter, ^- pound lard. 1 tea- 
spoonful of soda, 2 of cream tartar; mix with cold milk. 

For Strawberry Cake, open these when first baked ; take out some of the 
crumb, and till the inside with ripe strawberries, sugared; close, and bake 
the cakes five minutes longer. 

Raiiroad Cake. — A pint of flour, 3 eggs, 1 tea -spoonful of cream of tar- 
tar, half a tea-spoonful of soda, a table-spoonful of butter, a tea-spoonful 
of sugar; bake the butter in a square pan twenty minutes. 

Mrs. Gauberts Coffee Cake. — 1 cup cofl'ee, 1 cup of molasses, 1 cup sugar, 
half cup butter, 1 teaspoon saleratus, 1 egg'., spice and raisins to suit the 
taste. 

Soda Cake. — 4 eggs, 1 pint of sugar, 1 teacup of butter, 1 cup of sweet 
milk, 1 quart of flour, 1 tea-spoonful of soda, 2 of cream tartar. 

White Cake. — 3 cups of sifted flour, 1^- cups of sugar, 1 cup of sweet 
milk, 1 egg, 2 table-spoonfuls of butter, 2 tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar, 1 
tea-spoonful of essence of lemon. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; 
then add the milk (in which the soda should be dissolved), the egg, well 
beaten, and the essence. Mix with the above 2 cups of the flour; and 
lastly, add the third cup, in which the cream of tartar has been stirred ; 
then bake in pans, or basins, in a quick oven. 

Mountain Cake. — 1 cup of sugar, 2 eggs, half cup of butter, half cup of 
milk or water, 2 of flour, tea-spoonful of cream tartar, half tea- spoonful 
of soda, nutmec:. 

Jumbles. — 1 pound of butter, 1 of sugar, 2 of flour, 3 eggs, half cup of 
«^>iir milk, 1 tea-spoonful of soda; roll in white cofl'ee sugar. This will 
inaKe a large uaicu. If a small quantity bo wanted, take proportionately 
less of material. 

Ginger Snaps --l cud of butter. 1 n£ aueeur 1 ^f molasses, half cup of 
ginger, tea-spoonful of soda; mix stift'. 

A Small Sponge Cike. — (Jne cup of sugar, half cup of milk, one egg, two 
tea-spoonfuls of ceam tartar, one of soda; butter, size of an egg. 

Whigs. — Mix half a pound of sugar with six tiunces of butter, two eggs, 
tea-sj)ooiiful cinnamon. iSLir in two pounds flour, a teacup of yeast, milk 
enough to make a siifl' batter; when light, bake in cups. 



THE HOUSE-KEEPER^S GUIDE. 33 

Poor Man^s Cake. — One cup sugar, half cup butter, one cvip sour cream, 
one egg, flour enough to make a good batter, half tea-spoonful saleratus. 

Fruit Cake. — 1^- pounds sugar, 1|- pounds flour, f of a pound butter, 6 
eggs, a pint sweet" milk, 1 tea-spoonful saleratus, 1 glass wine, 1 of brandy, 
and as much fruit and spice as you can afford, and no more. 

Cup Cake. — 5 cups flour, 3 cups nice sugar, 1 cup of butter, 4 eggs, 1 
cup of good buttermilk, with saleratus enough to sweeten it; 1 nutmeg. 

Cookies. — 1 cup of butter, 2 cups sugar, 1 cup of cold water, J tea-spoon- 
ful of saleratus, 2 eggs : flour enough to roll, and no more. 

Soft GingerbreacL—l cup of molasses, 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of butter, 1 
cup of buttermilk, 1 egg, saleratus and cloves. Mix pretty stiff. 

Delicate Cake. — Nearly 3 cups flour, 2 cups sugar, | of a cup of sweet 
milk, whites of 6 eggs, 1 tea-spoonful of cream tartar, ^ tea-spoonful of 
soda, \ cup of butter, lemon for flavoring. 

Cream Cake. — 1 cup of cream, 1 cup of sugar, 2 cups flour, 2 eggs, tea- 
spoonful of saleratus; flavor with lemon. 

Sugar Gingerbread. — 1 pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, 
half "a pound of butter, 5 eggs ; roll very thin on flat tins ; do not grease 
the tins, but slip off" the cake, when baked, with a knife. 

Waffles. — 1 pound of flour, half pound butter, 4 eggs, 1 quart of milk, 
1 tea-spoonful of yeast; boil the milk; stir in the butter; beat up warm, 
and rise them. 

Old Colony Cake. — Three eggs, one scant cup of butter, two and a half 
cups of sugar, one cup of sour milk, three and two-thirds cups of flour, 
even tea-spoonful of soda ; spice to taste ; sift a little powdered sugar over 
the top. 

Mrs Work's Sponge Cake. — One coffee-cup flour, one coffee-cup sugar, four 
eggs, one lemon. 

Sponge Cake. — One pound powdered sugar, one pound flour, six eggs, 
beaten separately, grated rind of one lemon, and part of the juice; one 
tea-spoonful cream tartar, rubbed with the flour, half tea-spoonful soda, 
dissolved in half tea-cupful cold water, 

Every-day Fruit Cake. — One cup butter, two cups sugar, two cups sour 
milk, two cups raisins, five cups flour, tea-spoonful saleratus. Salt, cin- 
namon, cloves, citron, and wine to taste. 

Rice Ca^e.-— Three-quarters pound rice flour, half pound butter, eight 
fresh eggs, one pound sugar, half glass brandy. 

Mrs. Holmes^ Liberty Cake. — One cup butter, two cups sugar, one cup 
milk, one pint and a half flour, three eggs, salt and spices, three tea- 
spoons Babbit's yeast powders. 

Pound Cake. — One pound of flour, one pound of sugar, one pound of 
butter, eight eggs, three spoonfuls rose-water, mace or other spice. 

Measure Cake. — Four teacups of flour, two teacups of sugar, one and 
a half teacups of butter, one glass of brandy, four eggs, and one 
nutmeg. 

Sojt Gingerbread. — Two teacups of molasses, one teacup of milk, two 
eggs, one teaspoon saleratus, and flour to make it thick. 

Fannie^s Cake. — Half a pound of butter, three quarters of a pound of 
sugar, one pound of flour, four eggs, one cup of milk, one teaspoon of 
soda. Cloves, cinnamon, mace, to taste, with or without fruit, as you 
choose. Bake in a slow oven. 
3 



34 THE house-keeper's guide. 

BKEAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 

Mrs. Moulton's New England Brown Bread. — To four cups of Indian 
meal, and two of rye meal, add one quart of milk, (skimmed will do, 
if perfectly sweet,) one cup of molasses, one tea-spoonful of saleratus, 
and one dessert-spoonful of salt. Stir with a spoon, and bake without 
rising. 

Crackers. — One pint of water, one teacup of butter, one tea^poonful 
of soda, two of cream tartar, flour enough to make as stiff as biscuit. 
Let them stand in the oven until dried through. They do not need 
pounding. 

Pop Overs. — Four cups of flour, four eggs, four cups of milk, piece 
of butter size of two nutmegs, half teaspoon of salt, melt the butter. 

Bread Cakes. — Soak some crusts of bread in milk, strain them through 
the colender very fine, beat in four eggs, and a little flour, just sufficient 
to thicken the substance; add one tea-spoonful of saleratus. Mix all to 
make a thin batter, and bake on the griddle. 

Artificial Oysters. — Grate as man}' ears of green corn as will make one 
pint of pulp; add one tea-cupful of flour, half teacup butter, one egg, and 
pepper and salt to suit your taste. Dropped and fried in butter. 

Rye and Indian Johnny Cakes. — Two cups of rye, two cups of Indian 
meal, a small tea-spoonful of saleratus, a little stilt, sufficient sour milk to 
make a stiff batter. Bake in cakes on a griddle; split open and butter 
them; send to table hot. 

Pan Doddlhigs. — Three teacups of fine rye meal, three teacups of Indian 
meal, one egg, three table-spoonfuls of molasses; add a little salt and all- 
spice; sufficient sweet milk to form a batter stiff enough to drop from a 
spoon. Ery them in hot lard until a nice brown. 

Plain Corn Bread, but very Good. — One pint of sour milk, two eggs, 
one tea-spoonful of saleratus, a little salt ; make soft enough to pour out. 

Corn Bread. — One quart of sour milk, 2 tea-spoon fuls of saleratus. 4 
ounces of butter, three eggs, three table-spoonfuls of flour, and corn meal 
sufficient to make a stift" batter. 

Fruit Fritters. — Make a batter of flour, milk, and eggs, of whatever 
richness you desire; stir into it either raspberries, currants, or any other 
fruit. Fry in hot lard, the same as pancakes. 

Mrs. Roberts' Boston Broion Bread. — One heaping quart of rj'e flour, 1 
do. of Graham flour, scanty quart of milk, same quantity of warm water, 
cofiee-cup of molasses, one penny's worth of baker's yeast, or one coffee- 
cup of home-made yeast, teaspoon saleratus, dessert-spoon of salt. Grease 
an iron kettle, put in the mixture, and place immediately in a slow oven. 
Bake six or seven hours. 

Ground Rice Griddle Cakes. — Boil a quart of milk ; rub smooth a tea- 
cupful of ground rice, in a gill or two of cold milk, and stir it into the 
boiling milk; add a little salt, and while it is scalding hot, stir in flour 
enough to make the right thickness for baking. When cool, add a teacup 
of yeast, and four eggs. Let it rise light. 

Rice Griddle Cakea. — Put a tea-cupful of rice into two tea-cupfuls of 
water, and boil it till the water is nearly absorbed, and then add a pint 
and a half of milk. Boil it slowly, until the rice is very soft. 

Muffins. — Melt half a teacup of butter in a pint and a half of milk; 
add a little salt; a gill of yeast, and four eggs; stir in flour enough to make 
a batter rather stiix'er thau for griddle cakes. If kept in a moderately 
warm place, it will rise ,-ullieientiy in eight or nine hours. 

Rye Cake. — Four and a half cups rye meal, three eggs, one and a half 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 35 

teaspoons cream tartar, one teaspoon soda. Mix with milk, till about aa 
thick as fritters ; little salt To be eaten hot. 

Widow^s Cake. — Two cups of Indian meal, three cups of wheat flour, 
one pint of buttermilk, four table-spoons of molasses, two tea-spoons of 
saleratus. To be eaten hot, with butter, for tea or breakfast. 

Boiled Bread. — Two cups of Indian meal, two cups of rye, one of flour, 
two-thirds cup of molasses, pint and a half of milk; a little salt, and a 
large tea-spoonful of snleratus; pour it into a long tin pail ; put it into a 
pot; have just enough water to keep it boiling; cover tight, and not boil 
into the pail, and keep it boiling three hours, and you will have a loaf of 
bread without anj- crust. 

Rice Cakes for Breakfast. — Put half a pound of rice in soak over night. 
Early in the morning, boil it very soft, drain it from the water, mix with 
it a quarter of a pound of butter, and set it away to cool. When it is 
cold, stir it into a quart of milk, and add a very little salt. Beat six eggs, 
and sift half a pint of flour. Stir the egg and flour alternately into the 
rice and milk. Having beaten the whole ver}^ well, bake it on the griddle, 
in cakes about the size of a small dessert-plate. Butter them, and send 
them to table hot. 

Lucy's Rye Cakes. — Four and a half cups rye meal, three eggs, one 
and a half teaspoon cream tartar, one teaspoon soda; salt, mix with meal 
till as thick as pound cake. 

To Make Good Rusk. — Take a piece of bread dough large enough to fill 
a quart bov.d, one teacup of melted butter, one Qgg, one tea-spoonful of 
saleratus; knead quite hard, roll out thin, lap it together, roll to the thick- 
ness of a thin biscuit, cut out with a biscuit mold, and set it to raise in a 
warm place. From twenty to thirty minutes will generally be suflicient. 
Bake them, and dry thoroughly through, and you will have an excellent 
rusk to eat with your coflee. You can make them with hop-yeast, and 
sweeten them, too, if you please. I use milk yeast. 

Corn Bread. — Two cups Indian meal, one cup flour, two eggs, large tea- 
spoonful melted butter, two small tea-spoonfuls cream tartar, one small 
tea-spoonful soda, one large spoonful brown sugar dissolved in milk; of 
which add enough to make it as soft as gingerbread.- 

Cocoa-Nut Cake^ No. 1. — One pound of butter, two pounds of sugar, two 
grated cocoa-nuts — mixed well ; one cup of milk and the milk of the 
cocoa-nuts, one pound and three-quarters of flour, ten eggs, nutmeg if 
desired, half tea-spoonful of soda. This quantity will make two loaves. 

Cocoa-Nut Cake, No. 2. — One pound sugar, half pound butter, three- 
quarters of a pound flour, six eggs, and one cocoa-nut grated. Cream the 
butter and sugar, add the yolks well beaten, next the whites well beaten, 
then the flour, and last the cocoa-nut. 

Seed Cakes. — Eight cups of flour, three cups of sugar, one cup of butter, 
one cup of cream — or milk, if you cannot get cream — one tea-spoonful 
saleratus, one egg, caraway seed to suit your taste. 

Ginger Snaps. — Boil together one pint of molasses and tea-cupful of 
butter. Let it stand till cool; add two tablespoons of ginger, and one tea- 
spoonful of soda; flour to roll. Bake quick, in thin rounds, on a flat sheet. 

Buns. — One cup butter, one cup sugar, half cup of yeast, half pint of 
milk; make it stiff" with flour: add, if you like, nutmeg. 

Silver Cake a7id Gold Cake. — One cup white sugar, half cup butter, 
whites of five well-beaten eggs, quarter tea-spoonful soda dissolved in half 
tea-cupful milk, three-quarters tea-spoonful cream tartar mixed with two 
cups of flour. Flavor with extract of bitter almonds. The yolka of these 
five eggs, and the same ingredients, make Gold Cake. 



36 THE house-keeper's guide. 

MEATS. 

Roast Beef. — The tender-loin, and first and second cuts off the rack, are 
the best roasting pieces — the third and fourth cuts are good. When the 
meat is put in the oven, a little salt should be sprinkled on it, and the 
bony side turned toward the heat first. When the bones get well heated 
through, turn the meat, and keep a brisk fire ; baste it frequently while 
roasting. There should be a little water put into the dripping pan when 
the meat is put down to roast. If it is a thick piece, allow fifteen 
minutes to each pound to roast it in — if thin, less time will be required. 

Roast Veal. — Veal should be roasted brown, and if a filter or loin, be 
sure and paper the fat, that as little of it may be lost as possible. When 
nearly done, baste it with butter and dredge it with flour. 

Roast Pork. — Pork should be well done, and requires to be baked a 
long time. Before roasting, score the skin across with a sharp knife, or 
it will be difficult to carve. A spare-rib should be basted with a little 
butter and flour, and sweet herbs, or sage and onions, as best suits the 
taste. 

Roast TurTcey. — Let the turkey be picked clean, and washed and wiped 
dry, inside and out. Have j^our stuffing prepared, fill the skin of the crop, 
and also the inside; sew it up, put it in the oven, and roast moderately for 
three hours. Put a little water in the pan, and baste the outside with a 
little flour. 

Chickens. — Prepare them as above, and bake in a quick oven for one 
hour, more or less, according to size and age. 

To Roast Geese and Ducks. — Boiling water should be poured all over 
and inside of a goose or duck, before you prepare them for cooking, to 
take out the stJ'ong oily taste. Let the fowl be picked clean, and wiped 
dry with a cloth, inside and out; fill the body and crop with stuffing; if 
3'oa prefer not to stutf it, put an onion inside, and roast it brown. It will 
take about two hours and a half. 

Wild Foivls. — These fowls always require a brisk fire, and should be 
roasted till they are a light brown, but not too much, otherwise they lose 
their flavor by letting the gravy run out. 

Stuffing. — Take dry pieces of bread or crackers, chop them fine, put in 
a small piece of butter, or a little cream, with sage, pepper, and salt, one 
egg, and a small quantity of flour, moistened with milk. 

Baked Tongue. — Season with common salt and saltpeter, brown sugar, 
pepper, cloves, mace, and allspice, in fine powder, for a fortnight; then 
take away the pickle, put the tongue into a small pan, lay some butter 
on it, cover it with brown crust, and bake slowly, till so tender that a 
straw would go through it. To be eaten when cold. It will keep a Aveek. 

To Boil a Calf's Head and Pluck. — Clean the head very nicely, and soak 
it in water till it looks very white. The tongue and heart need longer 
cooking than the rest. Boil these an hour and a half, the head an hour 
and a quarter, and the liver an hour; tie the brains in a bag, and boil 
them one hour. Take up all at the same time; serve up the brains with 
pounded cracker, butter, pepper, vinegar, and salt. To be eaten with 
butter gravy. 

To Boil a Tivkcy. — Stuif a young turkey, weighing six or seven pounds, 
with bread, butter, salt, })ej)per, and minced parsley; skewer up the legs 
and wings as if to roast; fluur a cloth, and pin around it. Boil it forty 
minutes, then set oft" the kettle and let it stand, close covered, half an 
hour more. The steam will cook it sufficiently. To be eaten with drawn 
butter and stewed oysters. 



THE HOUSE -keeper's GUIDE. 37 

Beefsteak. — The tender loin is the best piece for broiling. A steak 
frura the round or shoulder clod is good, and comes cheaper. If the beef 
is not very tender, it should be laid on a board and pounded, before broil- 
ino- or frying it. Lay it on a gridiron, place it on a hot bed of coals, 
and broil it as quickly as possible, without burning it. If broiled slow, it 
will not be good. It takes from fifteen to twenty minutes to broil a steak. 
For seven or eight pounds of beef, cut up about a quarter of a pound of 
butter. Heat the platter very hot that the steak is to be put on, lay the 
butter on it, take up the steak, salt and pepper it on both sides. Beef- 
steak, to be good, should be eaten as soon as cooked. 

Beef Sausages. — To three pounds of beef, very lean, put one pound and 
a half of suet, and chop very finely; season with sage in powder, allspice, 
pepper and salt ; have skins thoroughly cleaned, and force the meat into 
them. 

Mrs. Pegg's Potted Veal. — Three and a half pounds raw leg of veal 
chopped, one heaping tablespoon salt, one do. black pepper, eight do. 
pounded butter cracker, three do. cream or milk, piece butter size of an 
egg, two eggs, one nutmeg; mold into a loaf, and put in a pan with a little 
water, and sprinkle over it bits of butter, and some more pounded cracker: 
bake two hours, and eat cold. 

A Nice Way to Cook Chickens. — The following is highly recommended: 
" Cut the chicken up, put it in a pan, and cover it over with water ; let 
it stew as usual, and when done, make a thickening of cream and flour, 
adding a piece of butter, and pepper and salt; have made and baked a 
couple of short cakes, made as for pie-crust, but rolled thin, and cut in 
small squares. This is much better than chicken pie, and more simple to 
make. The crust should be laid on a dish, and the chicken gravy put 
over it while both are hot. 

Pork Sausages., fine. — Have two-thirds lean and one-third fat pork; chop 
rery fine. Season with nine tea-spoonfuls of pepper, nine of salt, three 
)f powdered sage, to every pound of meat. "Warm the meat, that you 
can mix it well with your hands; do up a part in small patties, with a 
Aiile, flour mixed with them, and the rest pack in jars. When used, do it 
np in small cakes, and flour the outside, and fry in butter, or alone. They 
should not be covered, or they will fall to pieces. A little cinnamon to a 
part of them will be a pleasant addition. They should be kept where it 
is cool, but not damp. They are very nice for breakfast. 

Meat Pie. — Cut your meat (be it beef, veal, or mutton) into small pieces, 
and stew till it is very tender; season with salt and pepper, and, if lean, 
also a little butter, and thicken with flour, so as to make a tolerably thick 
gravy. Now place between two crusts, in a deep dish, and bake till the 
crust is well done. Cold roast and boiled meats may be disposed of in this 
way to very good advantage. Chicken pie is made in the same way. 

Chicken Corn Pie. — A lady contributor sends us the following : First, 
prepare two chickens as for frying; then put them down, and let them 
stew in a great deal of good, rich, highly-seasoned gravy, until they are 
just done; then have ready picked two dozen ears of corn; take a very 
sharp knife and shave them down once or twice, and then scrape the 
heart out, with the rest already shaved down ; then get a baking-pan (a 
deep one) ; place a layer of corn on the bottom of the pan, or dish, then 
a layer of the chicken, and so on, until you get all the chicken in ; then 
cover with the corn, and pour in all the gravy, and put a small lump of 
butter on the top, and set it to baking, in a not very hot oven. It does 
not take long to cook : as soon as the corn is cooked, it will be ready to 
send to the table. It can either be sent in the pan it is baked in, oi 



38 THE house-keeper's guide. 

turned out into another dish. There must be a great deal of gravy, or it 
will cook too dry. 

A New Receipt for Welch Rabbit. — Cut your cheese into small slips, if 
soft; if hard, grate it down. Have ready a spirit of wine lamp, &c., and 
deep block tin dish; put in the cheese, with a lump of butter, and set it 
over the lamp. Have ready the yolk of an egg whipped, with half a glass 
of Madeira, and as much ale or beer. Stir your cheese, when melted, 
till it is thoroughly mixed with the butter; then add, gradually, the egg 
and wine; keep stirring till it forms a smooth mass. Season with cayenne 
and grated nutmeg. To be eaten with a thin, hot toast. 

To Cook a Ham. — An excellent manner of cooking a ham is the follow- 
ing: Boil it three or four hours, according to size; then skin the whole, 
and fit it for the table ; then set in the oven for half an hour, cover it 
thickly with pounded rusk, or bread-crumbs, and set back for half an 
hour longer. Boiled ham is always improved by setting it in an oven 
for nearly an hour, until much of the fat dries out, and it also makes it 
more tender. 

To have Good Corned Beef. — Select a good, nice piece of fresh beef (a 
briscott or Hank piece is best), and put it in a pot of boiling water, and 
throw in a handful of salt, or enough to make it sufficiently salt to taste, 
and boil till tender. This will be far superior to any beef pickled in 
brine. 

Mock Terrapin — A Supper Dish. — Haifa calfs liver; season and fry 
brown. Hash it, notvery fine ; dust thickly with flour; a teaspoon mixed 
mustard; as much cayenne pepper as will lie on a half-dime: two hard 
eggs, chopped line; a lump of butter as large as an egg; a teacup of 
water. Let it boil together a minute or two. Cold veal will do, if livei 
is not liked. 

Mutton Haricot. — Take a loin of mutton, cut it into small chops, season 
it with ground pepper, allspice, and salt; let it stand a night, and then fry 
it. Have good gravy, well seasoned with flour, butter, catsup, and pep- 
per, if necessary. Boil turnips and carrots, cut them small, and add to 
the mutton, stewed in the gravy, with the yolks of hard-boiled eggs and 
forcemeat balls. Some green pickles will be au improvement. 

Chicken Jetty. — For chicken jelly, take a large chicken, cut it up into 
very small pieces; brui&e the bones, and put the whole into a stone jar, 
with a cover that will make it water-tight. Set the jar in a large kettle 
of boiling water, and keep it boiling for three hours. Then strain otf the 
liquid, and season it slightl}^ with salt, pepper, and mace; or with loaf- 
sugar and lemon juice, according to the taste of the person for whom it 
is intended. Keturn the fragments of the chicken to the jar, and set it 
again in a kettle of boiling water. You will find that you can collect 
nearly as much jelly by the second boiling. This jelly may be made of 
an old fowl. 

FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 

To Boil Fish. — Eill the fish with a stuffing of chopped salt pork and bread, 
or bread and butter, seasoned with salt and pepper, and sew it up; then 
sew it into a cloth, or you can not take it up well. Put it in cold water, 
with water enougli to cover it, salted at the rate of a tea-spoonful of salt 
to each pound of fish; add about three table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Boil 
it slowly for tweiity or thirty minutes, or till the fin is easily drawn out. 
Serve with drawn butter and eggs, with capers or nasturtion in it. 

Fish can be baked in the sauie way, except sewing it up in a cloth. 
Instead of this, cov«r it with egg and cracker, or butter crumbs. 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 39 

To Broil Fish. — Let it have been caught one day; lay the inside on 
the gridiron, and not turn it till it is nearly done. 

Fried Eels. — Parboil them a few minutes, then have your fat ready 
and fry them. An improvement is to dip them into an egg, and crumbs 
of bread. 

To Make a Chowder. — Lay some slices of good fat pork in the bottom 
of your pot, cut a fresh cod into thin slices, and lay them top of the pork ; 
then a layer of biscuit, and alternately the other materials, till you have 
used them all ; then put in a quart of water. Let it simmer till the fish is 
done. Previously to its being thoroughly done, add pepper, salt, and 
such seasoning as you like, and a thickening of flour, with acofl*ee-cup of 
good cream, or rich milk. 

Clam Chowder is made in the same way, only the heads and hard 
leathery parts must be cut off. 

Oyster Soup. — Bring your water to a boil, and put in your oysters, and 
2et them boil up for a minute or so ; season with butter, pepper, and salt. 
You can use all water, all milk, or a part of both, for the soup. 

To Stew Oysters. — Put the liquor in a sauce-pan, and when it all boils 
up, add the oysters, and pour in a little milk ; or, if you choose, water, 
about a teacup to a quart of oysters. Let them boil up a minute, not 
more; meantime, put in a small piece of butter, and dredge in some flour; 
Bet the saucepan off", and stir the oysters till the butter is melted. Lay 
some crackers or toasted bread in the dish, and pour on the 03'sters. They 
are very flne with roast or boiled turkey. 

To Fi'y Oysters. — Make a batter of two eggs, three gills of milk, two 
spoonfuls of flour, and some tine bread-crumbs; beat it well; dip each 
oyster into the batter, and fry in lard. 

Oyster Sauce. — When your oysters are opened, take care of all the 
liquor, and give them one boil in it. Then take the oysters out, and put 
to the liquor three or four blades of mace ; add to it some melted butter, 
and some good cream ; put in oysters, and give them a boil. 

Oyster Toast — Bruise one anchovy fine in a mortar; take twenty oys- 
ters, cut off their beards, and chop them small. Mix the anchovy and 
chopped oysters in a saucepan, with as much cream as will make them 
of a good consistency; add a little cayenne pepper; spread them, when 
quite hot, on a round of hot, well buttered toast, cut as for anchovy toast. 

GratUi of Lobster. — Take out all the meat from a large lobster ; then 
wash the body, tail, and shells, if the lobster is first cut in halves down 
the back; then dry and butter them, and sprinkle them with bread- 
crumbs; chop up the meat tine, with a little parsley and chalot, a few 
drops of essence of anchovies, a spoonful of vinegar, cayenne pepper, and 
salt; a little bechamel sauce, and boil all well together: then add the 
yolk of an egg; put it to cool ; then fill your shells, or paper-cases ; cover 
it with bread-crumbs and some pieces of butter ; brown them in the oven, 
and dish on a napkin. 

PRESEKVES, JELLIES, JAMS, AND PICKLES. 

Remarks. — Brass, iron, and copper kettles should never be used for 
making preserves. Iron-ware, lined with porcelain or tin, is far prefer- 
able, and not subject to the verdigris which acids produce on the others. 
If obliged to use a brass or copper kettle, scour it perfectly clean, and 
don't let your preserves stand in it one minute after they are done, It 
is bad economy to use too little sugar in the preservation of fruit. When 
it once begins to spoil, it can ne^^er bf* reinstated. Jellies, without suf- 



4y THE house-keeper's guide. 

ficient sugar, will not congeal. Preserves, to look clear and handsome, 
should be made with loaf sugar. Small jars are preferable to large ones 
in putting awa}^ preserves, as frequent exposure to the air is not good. 
After pouring the preserves into jars, cut several round pieces of paper, 
made to fit the mouth of the jar, and after laying one or two of thera 
over the fruit, pour upon it a tea-spoonful of good brandy; then cover 
the jar closely with some paper, or bladder-s^kin, and tie it down in a man- 
ner which will entirely exclude the air. If the preserves candy, after 
being kept a short time, the jar should be placed in a kettle of water, 
and permitted to boil from half to three-quarters of an hour. 

To Preserve Citron. — Pare and cut open the citron ; clean out all, except 
the rmd ; boil it till soft. To a pound of citron, add a pound of sugar, 
and a lemon to each pound ; put the sugar and lemon together, and boil 
it till it becomes a sirup, skimming it well; then put the sirup and citrou 
together, and boil it an hour. 

Another. — Cut ofl" the hard rind of the melon (which should be pre- 
serving citron, not the green cantalope), and cut it in pieces of any size 
and shape you choose; the slices should be from a quarter to ha*^lf an 
inch thick. Weigh your fruit, and to every pound add one of sugar. Put 
the sugar in a preserving kettle, with a gill of water to each pound of 
sugar, and some isinglass dissolved in warai waier; it will require a quar- 
ter of an ounce of isinglass to every five pounds of fruit. When the sugar 
is dissolved, put it over the fire, and boil and skim it. Then pour the 
sirup out of the kettle, wash it, and return the sirup to it. Now put in 
the fruit, and set it over a brisk fire, where it will boil rapidly. When 
the fruit appears translucent when held up toward the light, it is done. 
It will take from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half to cook it. 
Then take it out, a piece at a time, spread it on dishes, and strain the 
sirup in a pan. When the sirup is lukewarm, put your fruit in the jars, 
and pour it over. Let them stand till next day ; put brandy paper over 
it, and paste them. This fruit may be flavored with lemons, sliced, and 
preserved with it. Do not peel the lemons; cut them in thin slices, and 
cook them with the fruit. To three pounds of fruit add one lemon. As 
the citron makes a beautiful but tasteless preserve, it is necessary to flavor 
it with lemon, orange, or some other fruit. If, when it is a little cool, it 
should not taste sutficiently of the lemon, a few drops of the essence of 
lemon ma}^ be added. 

Good Receipt for Citron Preserves. — Prepare the rind, cut into any form 
you desire; boil very hard for thirty or forty minutes in alum water, 
tolerably strong; take them from the alum water, and put into clear cold 
water; allow them to stand over night; in the morning, change the water, 
and put them to boil ; let them cook until they have entirely changed 
color, and are quite soft; then make your sirup, allowmg one and a-half 
pounds of white sugar to one pound of fruit; then add your fruit, which 
needs but little mure cookuig. JMace, ginger, or lemon flavors nicely. 
This receipt is the best we ever saw. 

To Preserve Watenitelon Hinds. — Cut the melon rinds into strips, boil 
them in weak peiirlash water fifteen minutes; then drain out the liquor. 
Add a pound of loaf sugar to a pound of rind, and boil the whole about 
two minutes. The sirup will require to be scalded several times. 

Cherries. — To a pound of chen-ies allow three-quarters of a pound of 
fine loaf sugar; carelully stone them, and as they ure done, throw part 
of the sugar uver iheni ; l)oil them fast with the remainder of the sugar, 
till the fruit is clear, and the siruj) thick. Take ofl' the scum as it rises. 

Black Currants. — Gather the currants upon a dry day ; to evory pound 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 41 

allow half a pint of red currant juice, and a pound and a half of finely 
pounded loaf sugar. With scissors, clip off the heads and stalks: put the 
juice, currants, and sugar in a preserving-pan : shake it frequently, till it 
boils: carefully remove the fruit from the sides of the pan, and take off 
the scum as it rises : let it boil for ten or fifteen minutes. This preserve 
is excellent, eaten with cream. 

Preserved Apples. — Weigh equal quantities of good brown sugar and of 
apples : peel, core, and slice them thin. Boil the sugar, allowing to every 
^hrco pounds a pint of water: skim it well, and boil it pretty thick: then 
add the apples, the grated peol of one or two lemons, and two or three 
pieces of white ginger, if you have it: boil till the apples fall, and look 
clear and yellow. This preserve will keep for years. 

Peach Preserves. — Three-quarters of a pound of sugar to a pound of 
peaches ; put your sugar in the kettle, and put on water enough to make 
a thick sirup; boil and skim it; then put in your fruit, and cook till done. 
White sugar is best, but brown will do. 

(Quince Preserves. — Pare your fruit and cut into the proper size, and boil 
In a very little water till they become sufiiciently soft to run a brown- 
straw through. Now put your sugar in the same water in which your 
fruit was boiled, bring it to a boil, and skim ; then add your fruit, and 
cook till done, using the same proportion of sugar as in the peach pre- 
serves. 

Blackberry and Raspberry Preserves. — To every pound of fruit, use 
three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Make a sirup of your sugar, boil and 
ekim ; then add your fruit, and cook till done. 

To Preserve Plums. — Make a sirup of clean, brown sugar; clarify it; 
when perfectly clear, and boiling hot, pour it over the plums, having 
picked out all the unsound ones, and stems; let them remain in the sirup 
two days, then drain it off; make it boiling hot, skim it, and pour it over 
again; let them remain another day or two, then pour them in a preserv- 
ing kettle, over the fire, and simmer gently, until the sirup is reduced, and 
thick or rich. One pound of sugar to each pound of plums. Small 
damsons are verj- fine, preserved as cherries, or any other ripe fruit; clari- 
fy the sirup, and, when boiling hot, put in the plums; let them boil very 
gently until they are cooked, and the sirup rich. Put them in pots or 
jars; the next day secure as directed. 

Tomato Preserves. — Take the round yellow variety of tomato, as soon 
as they are ripe, scald and peel ; then, to seven pounds of tomatoes add 
seven pounds of white sugar, and let them stand over night. Take the 
tomatoes out of the sugar, and boil the sirup, removing the scum. Put 
in the tomatoes, and boil gentlj'- fifteen or twenty minutes; remove the 
fruit again, and boil until the sirup thickens. On cooling, put the fruit 
into jars, and pour the sirup over it, and add a few slices of lemon to 
each jar, and you will have something to please the taste of the most 
fastidious. 

Crab' Apple Jelly. — Jelly from any other tart apples can be made in the 
Bame way a* the following. The apples, however, should be sliced. The 
crab-apples have a very delicate flavor — better for jelly than that of other 
apples. Pour them in a kettle with just enough water to cover them, 
and let them boil four hours; then take them off the fire and rub them 
through a colender; this will separate the seeds and skin from the 
pulp ; then strain them through a flannel bag. Then, to each pint of the 
juice thus strained, add a pound of white sugar, and boil for twenty 
minutes; meanwhile skim, if necessary; then fill your glasses or moldS; 
aud let them stand for two or three days in the sun, till sufficiently 



42 THE house-keeper's GUI1)E. 

hardened. Dip in brandy a piece of unsized paper, and lay or. the top of 
the jelly; then paste over the top of the mold a piece of lettei paper to 
keep out the air, and the jelly is ready to be put away for use. 

To make Good Apple Jelly. — Take apples of the best quality and good 
flavor, (not sweet), cut them in quarters or slices, and stew thorn till soft; 
then strain out the juice, being very careful not to let any of the pulp go 
through the strainer. Boil it to the consistency of molasses, then weigh 
it, and add as many pounds of crushed sugar, stirring it constantly till tho 
sugar is dissolved. Add one ounce of extract of lemon to ever}^ twenty 
pounds of jelly, and when cold, set it away in close jars. It will keep 
good for years. Those who have not made jell}' in this way will do well 
to try it; they will find it superior to currant jelly. 

Currant Jelly. — Pick fine red, but long, ripe currants from the stem ; 
bruise them, and strain the juice from a quart at a time through a thin 
muslin; wring it gently, to get all the liquid ; put a pound of white sugar 
to each pound of juice; stir it until it is all dissolved ; set it over a gentle 
fire; let it become hot, and boil for fifteen minutes; then try it by taking 
a spoonful into a saucer; when cold, if it is not quite firm enough, boil it 
for a few minutes longer. Or, pick the fruit from the stems ; weigh it 
and put into a stone pot ; set it in a kettle of hot water, reaching nearly 
to the top; let it boil till the fruit is hot through, then crush them, and 
strain the juice from them; put a pound of white sugar to each pint of 
it; put it over the fire, and boil for fifteen minutes; try some in a saucer; 
when the jelly is thick enough, strain it into small white jars, or glass 
tumblers; when it is cold, cover with tissue paper, as directed. Glass 
should be tempered by keeping it in warm water for a short time before 
pouring any hot liquid into it ; otherwise it will crack. 

Currant Jelly without Cookirig. — Press the juice from the currants, and 
Etrain it; to every pint put a pound of fine white sugar; mix them to- 
gether until the sugar is dissolved, then put it into jars, seal them, and 
expose them. 

Cranberry Jelly, excellent. — Take any quantity of cranberries, and stew 
them in a sufficient quantity of water till they are well done. Now strain 
them through a piece of linen, or a sieve, and to each pint of the juice, 
add one pound of white sugar, and boil till it jellies. This is superior to 
any jelly ever made. 

Compote of Apples. — Pare six large apples, cut them in half, and put 
them into a pan, with a little water and lemon juice. Next, clarify half 
a pound of sugar, skim it, and put the apples into it, adding the juice of 
a lemon. Set the whole on a fire. Turn the apples frequently, and cook 
them until they are sufficiently soft to be easily penetrated by a fork. 
Then take them out; strain the sirup, and reduce it by boiling; strain it 
again, and pour it over the apples. They may be served either hot or 
cold. Cut the peel of a rosy apple into various devices, and lay them on 
the apples, as a garnish. 

Dried Apple Jelly. — One quart of apples put in four quarts of water, 
and allowed to stand all night; boil till the goodness is out of the apple; 
strain to a quart of juice, add a pint of sugar, and boil till it comes to a 
jelly. 

Raspberry, Red Currant, and Strawberry Jellies may be made by put- 
ting tho fruit into an earthen pan, bruising it with a wooden spoon, adding 
a little cold \\ater and some finely-powdered loaf sugar. In an hour or 
two, strain it through a jelly bag, and to a qutirt of the juice add one 
ounce of isinglass which has been dissolved in half a pint of water, well 
skimmed, strained, and aUowed to cool; mix uU well, and pour into au 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 43 

eartl.en mold. Lemon juice should be added to jellies, in proportion to 
their acidity. 

Apple Jelly, No. 2. — Pare, core, and cut thirteen good apples into 
small bits ; as they are cut, throw them into two quarts of cold water; boil 
them in this, with the peel of a lemon, till the substance is extracted, and 
nearly half the liquor wasted ; drain them through a hair sieve, and to 
a pint of the liquid add one pound of loaf sugar, pounded, the juice of 
one lemon, and the beaten whites of one or two eggs; put it into a sauce- 
pan, stir it till it boils, take off the scum, and let it boil till clear, and then 
pour it into a mold. 

Raspberry Jam. — Weigh equal proportions of pounded loaf sugar and 
raspberries ; put the fruit into a preserving pan, and with a silver spoon 
mash it well; let it boil six minutes; add the sugar, and stir well with the 
fruit. When it boils, skim it, and let it boil for fifteen minutes. 

Strawberry Jam. — Gather the scarlet strawberries, when perfectly ripe, 
bruise them well, and add the juice of other strawberries ; take an equal 
weight of lump sugar, pound and sift it, stir it thoroughly into the fruit, 
and set on a slow fire ; boil it twenty minutes, taking off the scum as it 
rises; pour it into glasses or jars, and, when cold, tie them down. 

White or Red Currant Jam. — Pick the fruit very nicely, and allo^ 
an equal quantity of finely-pounded loaf sugar; put a layer of eacn. 
alternately, into a preserving pan, and boil for ten minutes ; or they may 
be boiled the same length of time in sugar previously clarified, and boiled 
like cand3''. 

Ctcrrarit Jatn. — Pick the currants free from stems ; weigh three-quarters 
of a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit ; strain the juice from half 
of them, then crush the remainder and the sugar together, and put them 
with the juice in a kettle, and boil until it is a smooth jellied mass; havQ 
a moderate fire, that it may not burn the preserves. 

To Keep Red Gooseberries. — Pick gooseberries when fully ripe, and for 
each quart take a quarter of a pound of sugar and a gill of water ; boil 
together until quite a sirup; then put in the fruit, and continue to boil 
gently for fifteen minutes; then put them into small stone jars; when cold, 
cover them close ; keep them for making tarts or pies. 

Dried Peaches. — Peaches, as usually dried, are a very good fruit, but 
can be made vastly better, if treated the right way. Last season, the re- 
ceipts which had quite a circulation in the papers, of drying the fruit by 
a stove, after halving it, and sprinkling a little sugar into the cavity left 
by the extracted pits, was tried in our family. The fruit was found to bo 
most excellent ; better, to the taste of nine persons out of ten, than of 
any other peach preserves, by far. The peaches, however, were good ones 
before drying ; for it is doubtful whether poor fruit can be made good by 
that process, or any other. 

Tomalo Sauce. — Gather your tomatoes when fully ripe, and, after wash- 
ing them, mash them in some suitable vessel. Then place them in a 
kettle over a moderate fire, and when just warmed through, press a 
colender down upon them — then dipping from the colender all the 
watery juice possible. After boiling a short time, strain the mass through 
a wire sieve, just fine enough to retain the rind of the fruit ; then return 
it to the kettle, and boil it down to the desired consistency, (some prefer 
it thin, as it retains more of the flavor,) taking all care that it does not 
become scorched in the process. Heat the bottles you intend to use in a 
steamer, to boiling heat, and while they retain this heat, fill them with 
sauce in a boiling state. Then cork them immediately with good corks, 
and place them where they will cool slowly. Tomatoes, thus prepared, 



44 THE house-keeper's guide. 

will keep good, and retain all their original freshness and flavor, until 
their season comes round again. 

Tomato Catsup. — Wash your tomatoes and cut them upf boil and strain 
them through a sieve. To two quarts of the juice, add 1 pint of strong 
cider vinegar, and mace, cloves, spice, and cayenne to taste. Boil 15 or 20 
minutes, and, when cool, bottle for use. 

To Fickle Cucwnbers. — Wipe and put them in salt water, strong enough 
to bear an egg, in which let them remain six or seven days ; then scald in 
vinegar to green them; after which put them in cold, spiced vinegar. 
Beans are done the same. 

Superior Method. — Put them into salt water for three days, then scald 
vsreak vinegar and turn to them, and let them remain three more days, 
when you must scald your new vinegar, with a few onions, ginger-root, 
and horseradish, and set them in a cool place for use. 

To Pickle Tomatoes. — Always use those which are thoroughly ripe. The 
small round ones are decidedly the best. Do not prick them, as most 
receipt-books direct. Let them lie in strong brine three or four days ; 
then put them in layers in your jars, mixing them with small onions and 
pieces of horseradish. Then pour on the vinegar, (cold), which should 
DO first spiced, as in the receipt given for peppers ; let there be a spice- 
Lag to throw into every pot. Cover them carefully, and set them by in 
the cellar for a full month before using. 

To Keep Jams^ Jellies, and Preserves from Mold. — The closet in which 
sweetmeats are kept should be perfectly dry and cool. If that is the case, 
and the following receipts used, preserves will keep for years. Cut a round 
circle of writing paper, the size of the interior of the pot, and one about 
an inch and a half larger. Take the white of an Qgg.^ and a paste-brush, 
and lay a coating of white of egg over the surface of the smaller circle, 
and then lay that piece on the top of the jam, with the untouched side of 
the paper next to the jam. Take the larger piece, and coat that on one 
side with white of egg, and let the surface thus coated be the one turned 
inward. This circle is to cover the pot; and the white of egg renders it 
adhesive, and pastes it firmly down all around the edge of the crack. 

Patent Honey. — Take five pounds of good common sugar, two pounds 
of water, gradually bring to a boil, skimming well ; when cold, add one 
pound bee's honey, and four drops essence of peppermint. 

Clarified Molasses. — Common molasses may be clarified and rendered 
much more palatable by heating it over the fire and pouring in sweet milk 
in the proportion of one pint to a gallon of molasses. When the molasses 
boils up once, the albumen in the milk collects all the impurities in a thick 
scum upon the top, which must be carefully removed, and the molasses is 
then fit for use. Bullock's blood is also used for this purpose, but milk 
is more agreeable, in many ways, for domestic use. 

Tea. — AH green teas are positively injurious, even to a healthy stom- 
ach, and especially so to a delicate one. This is owing to the manner in 
which it is cured, on copper plates, which communicates to it a metallic 
property (sulphate of copper), highly injurious to the nerves and coat- 
ings of the stomach. Black tea, which is not cured in this way, is much 
healthier, but it has an herb-like taste, which renders it unpalatable to 
many. The best Japanese tea is free from both of these objections, far 
more delicious than the best green teas, and therefore the most desirable. 
Try it for a few weeks, and you will not go back to green tea. A tea- 
spoonful is sufiicient for uue'peison. Pour on boiling water, and steep 
ten or fifteen minutes. 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 45 

Coffee. — Not one person in a hundred understands the process of mak- 
ing good coffee upon scientific principles. 

Coffee, well made, is not only a delicious beverage, but is entirely 
harmless to a healthy person, when used with moderation, and not too 
strong. It contains little or no nourishment, but Prof. Liebig claims 
that it possesses the property of preventing a too rapid waste of the sys- 
tem, so that it indirectly imparts strength and tone which would not 
otherwise be obtained with the same amount of aliment. This principle, 
however, is almost wholly destroyed by too much roasting, and entirely 
evaporated by too much boiling ; so that it not only loses this property, 
for which it is chiefly valuable, but also its aromatic flavor, which alone 
renders it palatable. Therefore, broivn your coffee in a moderately-heated 
oven, instead of burning it up, as most people do. It must be well done, 
however, so it will grind fine, and with tolerable ease, by rapidly turning 
the crank of the mill. If it grinds tough, so as to obstruct the steady 
motion of the crank, it is a sign that it is not well done, in which case 
it will have a raw, unpleasant taste. Coffee, as a general rule, should 
be drank for breakfast only ; certainly never at supper, unless a person 
is going to be up and employed late at night, as it tends to make a per- 
son wakeful, and consequently prevents sound and refreshing sleep. 

Persons of nervous temperaments and in delicate health, will feel its 
effects in this respect more sensibly than those of a more sluggish and 
lymphatic nature, although its long-continued use, three times a day, will 
have its deleterious effects upon all constitutions, however robust. If 
used immoderately and too strong, it has a bilious tendency, and also 
tends to thicken the blood and to render the circulation sluggish, as well 
as injuring the delicate coatings and nerves of the stomach, and conse- 
quently impairing the digestive organs. 

It is in consequence of these latter effects that its immoderate use 
often produces severe headache. The nerves of the stomach and brain 
are so intimately connected that whatever affects the former, sympa- 
thetically affects the latter. No person should drink more than one and a 
half coffee cups at a merJ, while most of persons will find it to their 
advantage to restrict themselves to one large cup. In many diseases, 
especially where the patient is of a nervous temperament, its use, for 
the time being, should be entirely abstained from. 

Directions for making. — For each adult person, take one heaping table- 
spoonful of fresh, finely-ground coffee, and put in a large cup or basin, 
with which mix a sufficient qunntity of egg, previously beaten, the white 
and yolk together, to make a stiff paste ; now put it into yoiir coffee-pot 
or boiler and pour on loarm water, and gradually bring to a boil; when 
it boils up and breaks the third time, stir it down and set it on the back 
part of the stove, where it will steep for a few minutes, but not where 
it will boil again. Never, under any circumstances, boil longer than 
two or three minutes, for the reasons above stated. Coffee thus made, 
from the best Java and Mocha brands, will be as clear as amber, and 
served up with a plenty of good cream and clarified sugar, will be more 
delicious than nine-tenths of the oldest coflee-drinkers ever dreamed of. 

Raw or brown sugar should never be used in tea or coffee, from the 
fact that it tends to produce acidity of the stomach, besides being full 
of animalcula, which are entirely destroyed while undergoing the re- 
fining process. Its use in tea and coffee is no economy, as it is so much 
damper and more compact that the same bulk will weigh from one-fourth 
to one-third more than light clarified sugar. 



MEDICAL DEPARTMENT. 



In giving this department to the public, we do not intend to give speci- 
fics for every disease to which human flesh is heir; but only a limited 
number of prescriptions, which have been thoroughly tested and proved 
successful in the treatment of well-known diseases, which seem to baffle 
the skill of the " Regular Faculty;" and also a few plain directions to be 
pursued, in cases of emergency, where the services of a physician can not 
be immediately procured. In the first place, the limits which we have 
set for the work will not admit of the space necessary for a detailed de- 
scription of all diseases and their remedies, as this would require a volume 
of several hundred pages. Then, again, no one but a regular physician 
is competent to decide upon the nature of all diseases, and to prescribe 
their remedies under the existing circumstances, as there are scarcely two 
cases, even in the same disease, that require to be treated exactly alike. 
Those, however, which we have given, are the best that can be com- 
pounded for the purposes for which they are designed ; as they are com- 
posed of nearly all plants known to the materia medica, the properties 
of which act specifically upon the functions of the organs designed to be 
aflfected. Being purely vegetable, no harm can result from their use; 
besides, they are far more efficacious than the "■mineral poisons" usually 
employed by the Faculty for the same purpose. 

The vegetable materia medica, which we have compiled from the United 
States Dispensatory, gives the reader a knowledge of the properties of 
the remedies which he empio3"s; besides, it supplies him with a basis, or 
the data, for compounding remedies for the treatment of other diseases 
than those here prescribed for. 

Cough Sirup. — Make a strong decoction of boarhound, liverwort, ground 
ivy, and licorice root; sweeten with honey and loaf sugar, to make a thick 
sirup, and then boil for fifteen or twenty minutes, If the cough be severe, 
take a table-spoonful very often. If the throat be sore, add a little gum 
camphor to the mixture. 

A Sure Cure for Fever and Ague. — Take best Peruvian bark, two ounces; 
"wild cherry-tree bark, two ounces; poplar, one ounce; ginger, one table- 
spoonful ; cinnamon, one drachm; balmony, one ounce; capsicum, one 
table-spoonful; cloves, quarter ounce. Have all finely pulveri/Aid, and put 
in two quarts good port wine, and let it stand one or two days before 
using. Take a wine-glassful four or five times a day, and the disease will 
soon disappear. Much better and safer than quinine. 

The Best Tonic and Cathartic Jor Liver Coviplaint and Dyspepsia extaiiL 
— Chamomile flowers, two ounces; dandelion root,four ounces; yellowdock 
root, throe ounces; burdock root, three ounces; sarsaparilla, three ounces; 
"blood root, two ounces; liverwort, one ounce; hops, two ounces; wild 
cherry-tree bark, two ounces. Put all these together (in a crude state) in 
one vessel, and cover with water, at least three quarts or more, and steep 
(not boil) for several hours ; then strain through a piece of muslin. 
There should be at least three pints of the liquid after it is strained, and 
it must not be allowed to evaporate while steeping, so there will be a less 
quantity; if it sliould, add a little more water before straining. The 
iHfebL way is to k«cp on water enough while steeping, so that when yuu 
46 



THE HOUSE -keeper's GUIDE. 47 

press down with the howl of a spoon, the water will always come over 
the place so pressed. Having strained the liquor from the dregs, add 
three-fourths of a pint of London Dock or Holland gin, one and a-half 
ounces rhubarb, and two table-spoonfuls of ground ginger. Take one 
or two table-spoonfuls night and morning (on retiring and getting up), or 
just enough to keep the bowels gently open. 

Let dyspeptics persevere in taking this regularly, live upon a light and 
nourishing diet, keep the body clean, by frequent ablutions, and take 
plenty of exercise in the open air, and their ailments will soon disappear. 

This cured my dyspepsia and liver complaint of fifteen years standing, 
raised me from a mere living skeleton, with my weight less than ninety 
pounds, to one hundred and fifty-five pounds, being twenty pounds more 
than I had ever before weighed. 

A Pleascmt and Healthy Tonic for Restoring the Appetite. — Take one 
ounce pulverized golden seal, one ounce pulverized balmony, one ounce 
pulverized poplar, half ounce pulverized cloves, and put into one quart 
of good wine (currant or rhubarb is best), with a tea-cupful of loaf sugar. 
Let it stand a day or two, shaking it occasionally, and take a wine-glass- 
ful three times a day, before meals. This is an excellent tonic, and may 
be taken with advantage in connection with the one above. 

Nervine for Female Weakness and Nervous Debility.—Take one ounce 
Valerian, one ounce jslvvow, one ounce golden rod, one ounce unicorn, one 
ounce lady's slipper, one ounce scull-cap, one ounce ginseng (all in a 
crude state), and steep in three pints of water till evaporated to one, when 
strained. Then mix with one quart good port wine, and add one ounce 
pulverized golden seal, half ounce pulverized cloves, and sweeten with 
loaf sugar to taste. 

Dose — Half a wine-glass three times a day, before meals. Good in colic, 
pains in the stomach, flatulency, &c. 

Alterative Sirup for Scrofula^ and all Diseases arising from Impurity of 
the Blood. — Yellow dock, two ounces ; sarsaparilla, two ounces ; prickly 
ash, two ounces; wintergreen, two ounces; blue flag, two ounces; bitter- 
sweet, two ounces. Put all together, in a crude state, and steep in three 
quarts of water till evaporated to one, when strained. Now add one pint 
good London Dock, or Holland gin, one ounce extract of dandelion, and 
one ounce of sulphur ; sweeten with loaf sugar to taste. Dose — A table- 
spoonful three times a day before meals. If the bowels be costive, add 
one ounce pulverized rhubarb to the mixture. 

Rheumatic Drops^ or No. 6. — Take gum-myrrh, one pound; golden seal, 
four ounces; African cayenne, one ounce; put these into a jug, with two 
quarts best brandy ; shake several times a day for eight or ten days, when 
it is fit for use. This is a stimulant and tonic, and an excellent remedy 
for rheumatism, fresh wounds, bruises, sores, and sprains. It is also used 
in hemorrhage, mortification, &c. Dose — from one to two tea-spoonfuls 
in warm water. 

Comjjosition Powders. — Take one pound fine bayberry bark ; one-half 
pound ginger; three ounces of common cayenne, and mix them all to- 
gether. Dose — A tea-spoonful in a cup two-thirds full of boiling water ; 
sweeten, and add a little milk. 

An Excellent Linimeiit for Cuts, Bruises, Sores, ^c. — Take four ounces 
balm gilead buds, and steep for two or three days in one quart of alcohol; 
then turn otf the liquor, and add three ounces turpentine, four ounces 
gum camphor, three ounces oil arganum, two ounces sweet oil. For cuts, 
bruises, wounds, &c., in either man or beast, it has no equal. For old 
sores and ulcers, first cleanse them thoroughly with a wash made of witch 



48 THE house-keeper's guide. 

hazel, sumach, and elder bark ; then use the liniment. If they result from 
impurity of the blood, or are of long standing, then use the alterative 
sirup in connection with it. 

Diarrhea Cordial and Cholera Sirup. — Take three ounces blackberry root, 
one ounce golden seal, one ounce gum myrrh, one ounce bayberry, ono 
ounce evan root, one ounce sumach (leaves and berries), one ounce vale- 
rian, one ounce capsicum, one ounce allspice, one ounce ginger root. Put 
all, in a crude state, together, and steep in six quarts of water till evapor- 
ated to two after it is strained ; then add two quarts of good brandy, tAvo 
ounces extract of dandelion, from three to four ounces of pulverized 
cloves, and six or eight ounces of loaf sugar. Dose — for an adult, from 
one to two table-spoonfuls, in a little warm water, as often as the sever- 
ity of the case may require. If taken freely, in large doses, in cases of 
cholera, it is a sure cure. Every person having a friend in the army 
should make up a good-sized bottle, and send it to him. (If all the in- 
gredients can not at all times be obtained in compounding medicinea 
from these receipts, it will not always matter particularly if a portion 
be left out, as the properties of many are identical. By reference to the 
Materia Medica here appended, it can be seen what the properties of each 
are, and then determined whether it be absolutely essential.) This medi- 
cine is a powerful tonic and astringent; but an astringent is not to be 
taken in all cases where there is looseness of the bowels. If the dis- 
charges be dark-colored, and of an ofiensive character, they show a bil- 
ious and morbid condition of the stomach and bowels, which require to 
be thoroughly cleansed with some mild cathartic before any attempt is 
made to check them, when, as a general thing, the bowels will regulate 
themselves without any further treatment. If, however, watery dis- 
charges continue after the bilious matter has all passed off, then some 
astringent is necessary. Dysentery is a disease of the colon (lower bowel), 
caused by morbid irritation and inflammation, producing hemorrhage and 
intense pain, and bearing down; in which case astringents, especially 
those of a hot and irritating nature, are not to be taken, as they only 
serve to keep up the inflammation and enhance the difficulty; but sooth- 
ing emolients, in the form of clysters, must be given in their stead. Tor 
this purpose, infuse one tea-spoonful of the pulverized leaves of lobelia 
in one pint of slippery-elm water, and inject into the bowels about six 
ounces (a common tumbler full) at a time. If the bloody discharges and 
pains continue, also apply warm fomentations to the bowels, and give 
freely of hot ginger tea, so as to get up an action on the surface, which 
will withdraw the blood from within, and allows the inflammation to 
subside. If the slippery-elm water and lobelia can not be obtained right 
away, use starch-water. A lobelia emetic, for the purpose of cleansing 
the stomach, can be taken with advantage in this, and nearly all dis- 
eases of the bowels. If these simple rules were strictly observed in all 
cases of dysentery, many valuable lives might be saved, that otherwise 
would be sacriflced by the ignorance of the patient's friends, or the empiri- 
cism of "quacks," wlio make no distinction in the treatment of diarrhea 
and dysentery. 

The following receipts, for the cure of hydrophobia, diphtheria, &c^ 
are taken from the papers designated in their respective headings, and 
wo give them for what they are worth : 

Remedy for Diphtheria. — The following receipt for diphtheria — a dis- 
ease that is becoming dangerously prevalent throughout the country — we 
copy from the New York Tribune: We have received a receipt for the 
cure of diphtheria from a physician, who says that of one thousand cases in 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 4^ 

which it has heen used, not a single patient has heen lost. The treatment 
consists in thoroughly swabbing the back of the mouth and throat with 
a wash made thus: Table-salt, two drachms; black pepper, golden seal, 
nitrate of potash, alum, one drachm each. Mix and pulverize; put into 
a teacup, which half fill with boiling water; stir well, and then fill up 
with good vinegar. Use every half hour, one, two, and four hours, as 
recovery progresses. The patient may swallow a little each time. Apply 
one ounce each of spirits of turpentine, sweet oil, and aqua ammonia, 
mixed, to the whole of the throat, and to the breast-bone every four hours, 
keeping flannel to the part. 

Cure of Hydrophobia. — The New York Worl(Ts Paris correspondence 
Bays : Some of the medical journals are giving publicity now to an alleged 
cure for this terrible disease, which is communicated to them by the Kev. 
Tl. P. Legrand, who has been for many years a missionary in Syria, where 
hydrophobia is quite common, and where, he says, he has tried this rem- 
edy in sixty different cases, and performed sixty cures. If this be so, and 
there certainly is no reason to doubt the good father's word, the simple 
remedy which he proposes should be made known all over the world. It 
is this : take three handfuls of the leaves of datura stra.mo7iium, boil them 
in a quart of water till it is reduced to a pint, and make the patient drink 
the whole as soon as possible after the bite. A violent madness will 
ensue, but this is of short duration. A profuse perspiration follows, and 
in twentj^-four hours the patient is cured. Cauterization should also be 
resorted to as quickly as possible, although the reverend father states that 
be has seen many cures effected where this has not been done. 

Important Medical Discovery. — A London correspondent of the Liber- 
ator gives this account: — A great discovery is just now engaging the 
attention of the scientific and medical world. Few English names are 
more familiar to Americans than that of Dr. John Chapman, once the 
leading publisher of heretical books, now editor of the Westminister, and 
always a devotee of science and medicine. He is well acquainted with 
many scientific and literary Americans; and many of them, among others 
Mr. Emerson, have resided in his house when in England. This Dr. 
Chapman has for years engaged in studies and experiments connected 
with the nervous system alone, with such men as Dr. Brown, Sequard, and 
Claud Bernard, of Paris. For the past year he has been proving a 
tremendous discovery — namely the cure of epilepsy, and many diseases 
hitherto deemed incurable, by means of an external application of ice and 
hot water, in India rubber bags, at various parts of the spinal cord, acting 
thus upon the sympathetic nerve, and, through it, upon the most important 
and vital regions of the body. Many eminent physicians have accom- 
panied Dr. Chapman to see the marvels which he had wrought upon pa- 
tient, who had long ago despaired of health. Some physicians, among 
others Dr. Wilkinson (though a homeopathist) have so recognized the 
importance of the discovery as to commit to Dr. Chapman's care some 
of their patients. Cases are attested where a man for six years had three 
fits (on an average) daily, and a girl who had two from the ages of thir- 
teen to seventeen, had been entirely cured by ice. Just as wonderful 
have been the cures of paralysis. Many of the worst and most inveterate 
female diseases have yielded to the new cure. The treatment is as simple 
as it is grand. Any one who is troubled by the pressure of blood on the 
brain, will find that by holding a bag of ice on the nape of the neck ten 
minutes, an equable flow of blood can be secured. Those who are troub- 
led with habitual cold feet, may find relief by applying ice to the small 
of the back in the lumbar regions. It is hard to estimate the importance 
4 



60^^ THE HOUSE- keeper's GUIDE. 

of this discovery, which will, ere long, be ranked by the side of Jcnner. 
Several hospitals are already under Dr. Chapman's practice, arid as yet no 
one can bring forward an instance of failure. 

Cure for SmaU-Fox. — The German Rtjormed Messenger has received 
a letter from a friend in China, in which it is stated a great discovery is 
reported to have recently been made by a surgeon of the English army 
in China, in the way of an effectual cure of small-pox. The mode of 
treatment is as follows: When the preceding fever is at its bight, and just 
before the eruption appears, the chest is rubbed with croton oil and tar- 
taric ointment. This causes the whole of the eruption to appear on that 
part of the body, to the relief of the rest. It also secures a full and com- 
plete eruption, and thus prevents the diseases from attacking the internal 
organs. This is said to be the established mode of treatment in the En- 
glish army in China, by general orders, and is regarded as a permanent 
cure. 

How to Prevent the Defacing Marks of Synall-Pox. — While it is known 
to medical men that a total suppression of the eruption of sraall-pox will 
endanger the life of the sufferer, it is proved, by experience, that such a 
suppression can be undertaken on small portions of the body, for instance 
the face, without harm. The pomade of Baudeloque, made of six parts 
of pitch, (pix nigra), ten parts of yellow wax, and twenty-four parts of 
mercurial ointment, will answer that purpose. When used, it should be 
warmed and all parts of the skin of the face be covered, and kept covered, 
continually, for the space of four days ; the salve, if it proves efficacious, 
must be applied on the first or second day the eruption has broken out. 
Four days after the application, when removed, the eruption will have 
remained papulose, and the spots will disappear in time, without leaving 
any marks behind. Having experienced the good effects from the admin- 
istration of this remedy, we hope the press of this city will promulgate 
it by publication, and earn their thanks from the smiling faces of those 
whom it will have spared a frightful disfiguration. 

The French Physicians are now using gutta-percha, dissolved in chlo- 
roform, in the same way, which is more simple, and answers every pur- 
pose. — N. 0. True Delta. 

EULES FOR THE PRESERVATION OF THE HEALTH. 

"Always keep the head cool, and the feet warm." Go to bed early, and 
get up at the peep of day. Never be in a hurry when you eat, but mas- 
ticate your food well, and thoroughly mix it with the saliva of the mouth 
before swallowing, which is one-half the process of digestion. Above all 
never wash your food down, half masticated, with a pint or more of tea 
or coffee. Too much fluid on the stomach dilutes the gastric juice, pre- 
vents its direct and immediate action, on the food, and, consequently, 
retards the process of digestion till the fluids have been absorbed. Drink 
very moderately with your meals, and nothing for two and a-half or three 
hours afterward. Avoid too much greasy and fatty substances. The too 
common practice of eating fat pork is the cause of more scrofula than all 
other causes combined. Fresh bread and hot biscuits are decidedly in- 
jurious, and unflt to be eaten. Eat regularly, and never between meals. 

Whatever may be your occupation, take plenty of daily exercise in the 
open air. If you can not work in the garden, saw and split wood, or do 
something else useful ; walk and run briskly, or ride on horseback. Don't 
»ay that you have not time; for, in the long run, you will flud it tliu best 
"put in" of any thing which you have done. 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 51 

Always have your house, especially the sleeping apartment, well venti- 
lated, be it warm or cold weather. 

Never sit in a room, on a cold or damp day, without a fire, if you are 
in any 'legree chilly and uncomfortable without one. But few causes 
are more productive of disease than this practice, which is almost uni- 
versal. People generally take their stoves down too early in the spring, 
and neglect putting them up till late in the fall ; some, in fact, till dire 
necessity actually drives them to it. This is more particularly the case 
in hotels and boarding-houses, which is not only a great inconvenience, 
but an actual injustice to guests and boarders. Better to save the "al- 
mighty dollar" by robbing them of one-half their meals, than to deprive 
them of the comforts of a warm and comfortable room, on a cold, chilly 
day. 

Avoid contracting colds as much as possible; and when taken, endeavor 
to break them up as soon as you can. If you have been caught in a rain- 
storm, and your clothes have become drenched through, never sit down, 
or remain idle one minute after you get where you can exchange them 
for dry ones. As soon as you discover that your pores are closed, from 
having allowed any part of your body to become chilled, keep yourself 
comforttibly warm, within doors, till the difficulty has been removed. 
Drink plentifully of warm ginger, pennyroyal, or sage-tea ; evacuate the 
bowels by enemas, and live upon warm broths and gruels. Vapor baths 
are excellent in removing colds. Attend to these conditions promptly, 
and no permanent injury will ensue; but if neglected, pulmonary dis- 
eases, which will ultimate in consumption, will often be the result, to say 
nothing of the dangers of pneumonia, congestions, &c. 

Avoid sleeping on feather-beds, and under too much clothing, as it 
retains the perspiration and noxious exhalations from the body, and pre- 
vents a free circulation of the air. Woolen blankets are preferable to 
cotton comforts. 

Never allow yourself to become passionately angry, or unduly excited; 
but uniformly endeavor to preserve an equanimity and serenity of mind, 
which will greatly tend to the promotion of your health and happiness. 

Never indulge in the filthy, disgusting, and enervating practice (now 
a univer|jjl crime among all so-called civilized nations) of smoking and 
chewing tobacco, as no other cause is more prolific of deleterious efl;ects 
upon both mind and body. 

If you have become so thoroughly wedded to the " weed" that you can 
not give it up yourself, for heaven's sake, and the sake of humanity, don't 
permit your darling boy to imitate your bad example, so long as he 
remains under your guardianship; and when he arrives at man's estate, 
the chances are, if he be possessed of a reasonable share of common sense, 
that he will not then take it up. Mothers, see to it, that your boys do 
not acquire this man-killing habit before you are aware of it. 

Keep the body clean by frequent ablutions. Never go more than one 
week in cold weather, and not more than one or two days in warm 
weather, without washing your person all over. 

Kegulate the temperature of the water by that of the weather, and the 
constitution and vitality of the system. If the constitution be feeble, 
with but little vitality in the system, never, especially in winter, use water 
with the temperature much below the heat of the body — that is, 96 deg. 
Fahrenheit ; then wipeyourself perfectly dry, and rub briskly with the hand, 
or a dry towel. Persons of strong, robust constitutions, may use cold 
water, as the superabundance of animal heat will be suflicient to get up 
a reaction, and carry off the excessive cold. Were the above rules uni- 



62 THE house-keeper's guide. 

versally and strictly observed, nine-tenths of the "ills" and "ailg" to 
which human flesh is heir, would disappear from the face of our beauti- 
ful earth. 

WATER AS A REMEDIAL AGENT. 

The "Water-cure," as it is called, is good as an auxiliary in the treat- 
ment of nearly all diseases, especially those of a febrile nature; but it is 
not, as the hydropathics claim, a universal panacea, and will not do to 
depend upon, unaided by other remedies. The wise physician makes his 
selection from the entire Laboratory of Nature, using all remedies which 
cxpei'ience has proved to be beneficial, instead of confining himself ex- 
clusively to any particular one-idea system ; though the hj-dropathic, as 
an exclusive system, is, undoubtedly, preferable to the old system of 
poisoning with calomel, cupping and bleeding, which is now fast going 
out of use among more eyiiightened minds, in the old, or Alopathic school 
of practice. 

Water requires to be employed with discretion, or much harm maj 
result from its use. However, it may be used by almost any person with 
out danger, in nearly- all cases of febrile attacks, where there is severe 
local inflammation or general fever. 

If the disease be local, and the parts much swollen and highly inflamed, 
bathe frequently in cold water, and apply cloths wet in cold water as often 
as they become warm, till the inflammation subsides. In cases of general 
fever, where the pulse ranges from 90 up to 120, sponge the surface all 
over with water more or less cold, according to the constitution, general 
health, and present condition of the patient. The safest rule is, to use it 
of such a temperature as will feel cool, refreshing, and agreeable when 
applied; but never when it produces a chilly sensation, and a shrinking 
from it. This last rule will apply to consumptives, and all persons in 
feeble health. Observe these rules strictly, and no harm will result from 
its use; but, in most of cases, much good will come therefrom. 

Pure fresh air is another very important consideration in the treatment 
of the sick. Always have the chamber of the sick well ventilated, but 
not in such manner as to bring the bed into a direct draft, as there will 
be danger of taking cold, 

Su7ilight is the next consideration of importance, both to the f^ck and 
the healthy. Persons, as well as plants, can not thrive well when 
deprived of the vivifying and genial influence of the direct rays of the 
Bun; hence it is highly injurious to have your house all hemmed in with 
shade-trees, or the walls of adjoining buildings. This is evident from the 
fact that in all large towns and cities, the buildings on the south side 
of the street, where the rays of the sun never penetrate in midday, are 
the most unhealthy; and that in times of prevailing epidemics, by far the 
largest percentage of mortality is in buildings so situated. Therefore, 
keep your shade-trees at a proper distance from your building, throw open 
your blinds, and, as nearly as possible, admit the direct rays of the sun 
into every part of your house daily. 

In the treatment of neiirly all diseases, whether acute or chronic, more 
depends upon these conditions of pure, fresh air, sunlight, exercise, diet, 
and cleanliness, than in the skill of physicians and the potency of medi- 
cines ; which, however, are right and proper, when properly used. 

DIET AND BEVERAGES FOR THE SICK. 

Remarks. — Where persons have become very weak and much pros- 
trated from the eiFects of fevers and other diseases, nothing, especially 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 53 

after the disease is broken, and the patient is beginning to be convales- 
cent, is of so much importance as suitable food and drinijs; as the least 
indiscretion, in this respect, will often bring on a relapse, which will be 
apt to prove fatal. Therefore, avoid all hard and indigestible substances, 
such as pastry of every kind and description; crude and uncooked vegeta- 
bles; hard and unripe fruit; tough and fatty meats; highly-seasoned and 
rich soups, and all strong and intoxicating beverages. 

Beef Tea. — This is the most proper food that can be given where the 
patient is in a low, prostrate condition, with but little recuperative power 
left in the system. It is made as follows: Take a piece of tender, lean 
beef, large enough, when cut up, to HU a large cotfee-cup; cut it very 
fine, almost into mince; put it into two cups, or double its own bulk of 
cold water; bring it to a boil, skimming it as the skuin rises to the top; 
continue the boilmg till one-half of the water has been evaporated, when 
it is ready for use. Use no seasoning, except a very little salt. If the 
patient be much reduced, from the effects of prostrating fevers, or other 
causes, this is to be given, at first, in teaspoon quantities; then gradually 
increased in quantity, as the patient gains strength — taking care that no 
more is taken at a time than the stomach is able to bear. Better give a 
little, often, than to overload the stomach with more than it can manage. 
As soon as the patient recovers sulficiently to require something solid, a 
little to.isted soda-cracker, or nice wheaten bread, may he crumbed in with 
the broth. If beef can not always be procured, the next best thing is 
mutton, wild fowls, squirrels, rabbits, and, last of all, chickens. Wild 
fowls are much healthier than domestic ones, and venison is healthiej* 
than beef or mutton. 

Broths made from boiling mutton, or other meat, with pearl-barley, 
till the latter becomes a jelly, is an excellent diet for the sick. First soak 
the barley several hours in cold water, then put the water and barley, 
together with the meat, in the pot, and boil till sufficiently done, liice, 
cooked in the same way, is also good. 

Corn-Starch. — Get the Oswego corn-starch, and make into light, boiled 
puddings. Take all rnilk, or part milk and part water, and bring to a boil; 
then stir in corn-starch, which has been beaten into a paste, and thinned 
with milk or water, till it is of the proper consistency. Cook for fifteen 
or twenty minutes over a moderate fire, stirring it all the while, to pre- 
vent its burning. Por sick people, do not put in eggs, according to tho 
directions accompanying each package, as the eggs, when cooked hard, 
are too hard to digest. This is as good as the Bermuda arrow-root, and 
is much cheaper. 

Sago. — Wash it clean, and soak in cold water for one hour ; now put 
in a stew-pan, in the same water, and cook gently till it is done. Season 
with a little nutmeg and lemon, and also add wine and sugar, if you like. 
If preferred, it can be boiled the same way in new milk. 

Meat Gruel. — Stir a little Indian-meal, or oatmeal, with water, and boil 
thoroughly till well done, stirring it so it will not burn. 

Milk Porridge. — Bring one quart of milk to a boil, and stir in a little 
flour, which has been well beaten into a paste, and thinned, till it is of 
the desired consistency. Cook till well done. Koast and baked potatoes, 
baked apples, and soft-boiled eggs, are good for sick persons when in an 
advanced state of convalescence, but are not good to be eaten at first, aa 
they would prove too much for the digestive organs. 

Toast. — Take good, nice wheaten bread, and cut in slices, and toast till 
a little brown ; now put a slice on a plate, and turn on a little hot water, 
and allow it to remain long enough to moisten it all through, but no 



'64 THE house-keeper's guide. 

longer; then sprinkle a little salt over it, spread it with a little fresh bu^ 
ter, or sweet cream. Prepare what you want in the same way; and, 
having put all the slices together on the same plate, set it in the oven, and 
allow it to remaiti till it becomes well heated all through, but not long 
enough to bake and become dry. This is not a bad dish for well people 
to take. 

Toast Water. — Toast two or three slices of bread till well browned all 
through, but not burned in the least. Put in a pitcher, and turn on one 
pint of hot water, and let it stand for half an hour or so, when it ia ready 
for use. Sweeten with loaf sugar, if you like. This is cool and nour- 
ishing. 

Slippery Elm and Date- Water is also cool and nourishing for sick peo- 
ple. Take a tumblerful of nice plump dates, or of slippery elm, and put 
into a pint of cold water, and let it stand till it becomes thick, like mucil- 
age or gum-water. People have been known to live for weeks upon this, 
when tTie stomach was unable to bear any thing else. 

Lemon and Orange-ade is a good beverage for persons sick with a fever. 

Why Children Die. — One reason why children die is because they are 
not taken care of. From the day of birth, they are stuffed with food, 
and choked with physic, sloshed with water, suffocated in hot rooms, 
steamed in bed-clothes. So much for in-door. When permitted to breathe 
a breath of pure air once a week in summer, and once or twice during 
the colder months, only the nose is permitted to peer into daylight. A 
little later, they are sent out with no clothing at all on the parts of the 
body which most need protection. Bare legs, bare arms, bare necks, girted 
middle, with an inverted umbrella to collect the air and chill the other 
parts of the body. A stout, strong man goes out on a cold day with gloves 
and overcoat, woolen stockings, and thick, double-soled boots, with cork 
between and rubbers over. The same day a child of three years old, an 
infant flesh, blood, bone, and constitution, goes out with shoes as thin as 
paper, cotton socks, legs uncovered to the knees, neck bare; an exposure 
which would disable the nurse, kill the mother outright, and make the 
father an invalid for weeks. And why? To harden them to a mode of 
dress which they are never expected to practice ; to accustom them tc 
exposure wlijdi, a dozen years later, would be considered downright fool- 
ery. To rear children thus for the slaughter-pen, and then lay it on the 
Lord, is too bad. We don't think the Almighty had anj'' hand in it. 
And to draw comfort from the presumption that He had an agency in 
the death of the child is a profanation. — Journal of Health. 

Dieting. — Dieting is usually considered to mean the same thing as a 
kind of starvation. The idea which the educated physician attaches to 
the term is a judicious regulation of the quantity and quality of the food, 
according to the circumstances of each cjise. A healthy man may diet 
him:3elf in order to keep well; an invalid may diet with a view to the 
recovery of his health; yet the things eaten by the two will widely differ 
in their nature, bulk, and mode of preparation. A vast multitude are 
suffering hourly by the horrors of dyspepsia; no two are precisely alike 
in all points, since there is an endless variety of combinations as to ago, 
sex, occupation, air, exercise, mode of eating, sleeping, constitution, tem- 
perament, etc. Yet dyspepsia is always brought on by over and irregular 
eating; it could be banished from the world in a generation, if the chil- 
dren were educated to eat moderately, n^gularly, and slowly ; the parents 
who do this will do their otfspring a higher good than by leaving them 
larg'> fortunes, which, in three cases out of four, foster idleness, gluttony 
aua >/ory evil thing. As the rich can get any thing to eat or driuk whea 



THfi' HOUSE -I^EEPER'S GUIDK. ^ 

wanted, thej, with indulged children, bring on dyspepsia by eating irreg- 
ilarly and without an appetite. The poor — those who have to work for 
h living — induce the horrible disease by eating too rapidly and at unsea- 
sonable hours ; mainly by eating heartily at supper, and going to bed within 
an hour or two afterward. In the heyday of youth and manly vigor 
there may not for a while be noticed any special ill effect from such a 
practice — in truth, it is at first inappreciable, but it is cumulative, and im^ 
possible not to manifest itself in due time. Infinite Benevolence forgives 
a moral delinquency; but Omnipotent as He is, and loving towards all, it 
is not in the nature of His government of created things to work a mir- 
acle, to suspend a natural law, in order to shield one of his creatures from 
the legitimate effects of a violence offered the physical system by excesses 
in eating, drinking, or exercise. 

Perhaps hearty suppers make more dyspeptics than any or all other 
causes combined. If dinner is at noon, nothing should be taken for sup- 
per but a single cup of weak tea or other hot drink, and a piece of stale 
bread and butter. After forty years of age, those who live in-doors, 
sedentary persons — that is, all who do not work with their hands as 
laborers — would do better not to take any supper at all. Half the time 
the sedentary, who eat at noon, do not feel hungry at supper; especially 
if they see nothing on the table but bread and butter and tea. But Nature 
is goaded on to act against her instincts in almost every family in the 
nation by " relishes" being placed on the supper-table, in the shape of 
chipped beef, salt fish, cake, preserves or other kinds of sweetmeats, and 
before the person is aware, a hearty meal has been taken, resulting in 
present uncomfortableness, in disturbed sleep, in a weary waking in the 
morning, bad taste in the mouth, and little or no appetite for breakfast, 
all of which can be avoided by beginning early to eat habitually, accord- 
ing to the suggestions above made. — HaU's Journal of Health, 



POISONS AND THEIK ANTIDOTES. 

It not un frequently happens that serious and distressing results are oc- 
casioned by the accidental employment of poisons ; and we herewith sub- 
mit a compendious list of the more common poisons, and the remedies for 
them most likely to be at hand : 

Acids. — These cause great heat and sensation of burning pain, from the 
mouth down to the stomach. Remedies : Magnesia, soda, pearlash or soap 
dissolved in water ; then use stomach-pump or emetics. 

Alkalies. — The best remedy is ginger. 

Ammonia. — Remedy: Lemon-juice or ginger; afterward milk and water, 
or flaxseed tea. 

Alcohol. — First cleanse out the stomach by an emetic ; then dash cold 
water on the head, and give ammonia (spirits of hartshorn). 

Arsenic. — Remedies: In the first place evacuate the stomach; then give 
the white of eggs, lime-water, or chalk and water, charcoal, and the prep- 
arations of iron, particularly hydrate. 

Lead. — White lead and sugar of lead. Remedies: Alum, cathartic, such 
as castor oil and Epsom salts especially. 

Charcoal. — In poison by carbonic gas, remove the patient to the open 
air, dash cold water on the head and body, and stimulate the nostrils 
and lungs by hartshorn, at the same time rubbing the chest briskly. 

Corrosive Sublimate. — Give the white of eggs freshly mixed with water, 
or give v^rheuL liuur and water, or soap and wwter freely. 



60 THE house-keeper's fttJIDE. 

Creosote. — While of ega's and emetics. 

Belladoiia or flight Henbane. — Give emetics, and then plenty of vinegj^r 
and water, or lemonade. 

Mushrooms, when Poisonous. — Give emetics, and then plenty of vinegar 
and water, with dose of either, if handy. 

Nitrate of Silver {Lunar Caustic.) — Give a strong solution of common 
Bait, and then emetics. 

Opium. — First give a strong emetic of mustard and water, then strong 
coffee and acid drinks; dash cold water on the head. 

Laudaiiuin. — Same as opium. 

Nux Vomica. — First emetics, then brandv. 

Oxalic Acid. — Frequently mistaken for Epsom salts. Eemedies : Chalk, 
magnesia, or soap and water freel}-, then emetics. 

Nitrate of Potash, or Saltpeter. — Give emetics, then copious draughts 
of flaxseed tea, milk and water, and other sooching drinks. 

Frussic Acid. — When there is tim, administer chlorine in the shape 
of soda or lime ; hot brandy and water. Hartshorn and turpentine are 
also useful. 

Snake-bites, etc. — Appl}'", immediately, strong hartshorn, and take it 
internally. Also give sweet oil and stimulants freely. Apply a ligature 
tight above the part bitten, and then apply a cupping glass. 

Tartar Emetic. — Give large doses of tea made out of galls, Peruvian 
bark, or white-oak bark. 

Tobacco. — First an emetic, then a stringent tea, then stimulants. 

Verdigris. — Plenty of the white of eggs and water. 

White Vitriol. — Give the patient plenty of milk and water. 

In almost all cases of poisons, emetics are highly useful, and of these, 
one of the very best, because most prompt and ready, is the common 
mustard flour or powder, a tea-spoonful of which, stirred up in warm 
water, may be give every five minutes, until free vomiting can be ob- 
tained. 

Emetics and warm demulcent drinks, such as milk and water, flaxseed 
or slippery-elm tea, challc-water, etc., should be administered without 
delay. The subsequent management of the case will, of course, be left to 
a physician. 

VEGETABLE MATEKIA MEDICA. 

Lobelia Injlata. — The properties of this plant have long been known to 
the Aborigines of this country, but Dr. Samuel Thompson has the honor 
of bringing it into general use, and of establishing its efficacy in the 
treatment of various diseases. This herb, properly administered, will 
subdue diseases of long standing, which have resisted the power of every 
other remedy. It is one of the most powerful and efiective emetics that 
can be given, and is of incalculable value in the treatment of all morbid 
affections of tlie stomach, poisonings, etc. There is scarcely a case arising 
from a morbid and bilious condition of the stomach, and other viscera, in 
which an emetic may not be taken with great advantage to the patient, 
as it expels all morbific matter, and removes all obstructions which retard 
the process of digestion. It may be administered occasionally in all cases 
of dyspepsia and indigestion, cholera-morbus, diarrhea, dysentery, etc. I 
have seen persons lingering along with a poor appetite, or none at all, 
with constant nausea at the stomach, :n spite of the most powerful reme- 
dies administered by skillful hands, take one or two lobelia emetics and 
throw up nearly a pint of phlegm and slimy matter, which had lain on 



THE HOrSE-KEEPBE's GUIDf!. 57 

the stomach so long that it had become tough and ropy, so that when hfted 
up it would hang in strings ten or twelve inches long. This "sliming,'' 
as it is sometimes termed, adheres closely to the coatings of the stomach, 
and almost entirely prevents the action of the gastric juice upon the food; 
and nothing will so effectually dislodge and expel it, as a good lobelia 
emetic. Whatever may be the prejudices of the patient against this 
harmless but powerful remedy, it will all be removed on taking one or two 
doses, followed with the expulsion from the stomach of half a pint or moro 
of morbific or bilious matter, the speedy return of his appetite, and a 
feeling better generally, and at the stomach particularly. 

The following is the best method of administering it: Take one tea- 
epoonful of ginger and put in a pitcher and pour on one quart of hot 
water. When a little cool, take a tea-cupful (with sugar if you like,) and 
repeat every five minutes till all is drunk up; now put a tea-spoonful of 
a mixture (equal parts,) of bayberry bark and ginger into the pitchei, 
and pour on another quart of boiling water; let it steep a few moments, 
end then take a tea-spoonful of the pulverized leaves of lobelia and put 
into a teacup, which fill two-thirds full of the tea from the pitcher; let it 
stand covered for five minutes, then give the patient one-half of it, to be 
followed by more of the new tea. If, after the lapse of five or ten min- 
utes, vomiting does not ensue, give the balance of the lobelia, and drink 
again of the tea till it commences, and the stomach becomes thoroughly 
evacuated. Should the first dose produce the desired effect, then pour 
more water on the grounds in the pitcher, drink again of the tea, and take 
the remaining portion of the lobelia, as in the first dose. If the bayberry 
and ginger can not at all times be had, use pennyroyal tea in the same 
manner. This emetic is simple, and can be administered by almost any 
adult person, and, in nine cases out of ten, will be sufficient to completely 
evacuate the stomach, while now and then a case will require double the 
quantity of lobelia. 

Skiaik Cabbage. — The root is stimulant and expectorant; useful in 
coughs, asthma, and all pulmonary complaints. It is also given to chil- 
dren, to destroy worms. 

Alder. — This is an astringent, useful in bleeding at the lungs, or as a 
wash for ulcers. 

Motherwort. — This will ease the pain in the nervous headache. 

Babn Gitead Buds. — Steeped in spirits, excellent for bathing wounds. 

Mullen. — This is physical ; good, simmered in lard, for piles. 

Burdock. — This is a cathartic; it will produce perspiration. The leaves 
are good in fevers, to bind upon the head and feet. 

Blackberry. — This is astringent; veiy valuable in dysentery. 

PLantam. — Good, combined with lard, for the salt-rheum ; its juice will 
cure the bite of snakes. 

Blucfiac], — Useful in fevers, or to expel humors from the system. Dose — 
half a tea-spoonful three times a day. 

Prickly Ash. — The bark and berries of the prickly ash are stimulant and 
tonic. They are almost a sovereign remedy for cold feet and hands, and 
fall diseases dependent on a sluggish or languid circulation. Dose — from 
half to a tea-spoonful of the powdered bark and berries. 

Srnart Weed. — This herb produces powerful sweating ; is an excellent 
remedy to break up a cold when threatened with a fever. It may bo 
drank in tea at liberty. 

May Weed. — It is a stimulant and tonic, useful in febrile attacks, sudden 
colds, cough, etc. This is commonly used in the form of tea, induces per- 
gpiratioUi and sometimes vomiting. 



'68 THE nOUgE-KEEPER'g GtriDE. 

Chamomile. — It is a stimulant and tonic, useful in colds, febrile attack!!, 
debility, anl in all cases the same as May weed. 

Pipsissewa — Winter Green. — The pipsissewa is a stimulant, diuretic, as- 
tringent, and tonic; useful in scrofuhis, tumors, cancers, and kidney com- 
plaints. The tea is also useful as a wash for ill-conditioned sores and 
cutaneous eruptions. 

Peppermint. — Is a pleasant stimulant, promotes perspiration, and may 
be administered in all cases of colds, pain in the stomach and bowels, 
flatulency, headache, nausea, etc. 

Spearmint. — Is a tonic and stimulant, and is employed to stop vomit- 
ing, and allay nausea. It is an excellent carminative, induces perspir- 
ation, warms and invigorates the system, and quiets pain in tae stomach 
and bowels. 

Ginseng. — The root is tonic and nervine. It is useful in all cases of 
debility, loss of appetite, neuralgic affections, and dyspepsia. Dose — half 
a tea-spoonful of the powdered root, more or less. 

Beth Root. — Beth root is astringent, tonic, and antiseptic, may be em- 
plo} ed in all cases of hemorrhage, leucorrhea, asthma, and coughs. Dose 
— half a tea-spoonful. 

Scullcap. — Scullcap is a most A^aluable nervine, and antispasmodic. It 
may be used successfully in delirium tremens, fits, locked-javv, St. Vitus' 
dance, and all nervous diseases. It is also recommended in hydropho- 
bia. Dose — a tea-spoonful of the powdered herb. 

Ladies Slipper. — Is a valualjle nervine, quiets nervous excitement, 
eases pain, and induces sleep. It may be used freely in all nervous and 
hysterical affections, without incurring the least danger, or producing 
unpleasant consequences. Dose — a tea-spoonful of the powdered root 
may be taken three pr four times a day, or until relief is obtained. 

Slippery Elm. — The inner bark is mucilaginous and nutritious, and 
may be employed in all cases of inflammation, debility, diseases of the 
urinary passages, diarrhea, dysentery, pleurisy, and sore throat. 

Pen7iyroyal. — Is an agreeable stimulant, and, if convenient, should 
always be used in giving an emetic. It promotes perspiration, and 
facilitates the operation of lobelia. It is also a valuable carminative, 
and may be freely used in all slight attacks of disease. 

Gu7n Myrrh. — It is astringent, antiseptic, and tonic. It is useful in 
pulmonary complaints, loss of appetite, sore mouth, and offensive breath. 
It is also useful in dysentery and diarrhea, and to cleanse offensive ulcers, 
putrid and ill-conditioned sores. Dose — a tea-spoonful of the tincture, of 
fourth of a tea-spoonful of the powder. 

Cayenne. — Is a pure, powerful, and healthy stimulant, and produces, 
when introduced into the stomach, a sensation of warmth, which diffuses 
itself gradually through the system, but without any narcotic effect. It 
is an excellent remedy in all cases of colds, coughs, flatulency, congestion, 
dyspepsia, etc. It should not be taken in very large doses upon a cold 
or empty stomach, but in small quantities at first, gradually increasing 
the dose. 

Balmony. — It serves as a tonic laxative, and may be used in debility, 
costiveness, dyspepsia, jaundice, coughs, and colds. There are but few 
forms of disease in which this article may not be used to advantage. Dose — 
an even tea-spoonful of the powdered lierb. 

Poplar. — The bark is a pleasant tonic, useful in loss of appetite, indi- 
gestion, diarrhea, woiins, :ind headache. It possesses diuretic properties, 
and may be eMij)loycd in strangury, and all dis(!ases of the luiiuiry pa^ 
sages. Doso — a toa-tpoonful of the powdered bark. 



THE HOUSE-KEEPER'S GUIDE. 59 

Unicorn. — The root of this plftiit is a vahiable tonic, beneficial in all 
female complaints, particularly so in leucorrhea; also in pleurisy, general 
debility, weakness of the digestive organs, and coughs.^ Dose — from half 
to a tea-spoonful of the powdered root. 

Boneset — Is laxative, tonic, and expectorant, A decoction of the leaves 
and flowers, taken while warm, and in large quantities, will evacuate 
the stomach in a very gentle and safe manner; administered cold, it acts 
as a tonic and laxative. It is useful in coughs, colds, and pulmonary 
complaints. 

Bayherry. — The bark of bayberry is powerfully astringent, and slightly 
stimulating; useful for .cleansing the stomach and bowels from canker, 
scar]atina,"dysenter3^, and diarrhea. A decoction of the bark is also useful 
as a gargle for sore' throat, and as a wash for ill-conditioned sores. 

Hemlock Bark. — It is astringent and tonic. Enemas composed of a 
strong tea of this article may be used with advantage in all cases of 
prolapsus. 

Marsh Rosemary. — The root of the marsh rosemary is astringent and 
tonic, and may be used in all cases where these properties are required. 
A decoction of this is an excellent wash for canker-sores, sore mouth, etc. 

Witch Hazel. — The bark and leaves are astringent and tonic. May be 
used in all cases of hemorrhage, debility, and for cleansing irritable 
sores. 

Evan JRoo^.— Evan root is a valuable tonic and astringent; useful for 
diarrhea, dysentery, sore mouth, debility, etc. 

White Pond-Lily. — The root of this plant is a pleasant astringent 
useful in bowel complaints, and as a gargle for putrid and ulcerated sore 
throat. Combined with slippery-elm, it forms an excellent poultice for 
cleansing old sores, ulcers, etc. 

Gold Thread. — It is astringent and tonic, useful as a gargle for .sore 
throat, and is much used for that purpose. It may also be employed in 
debilit}'^ and loss of appetite, and in all cases where golden seal and poplar 
bark are recommended. 

Sumach. — The leaves and berries are stimulant, astringent, and tonic, 
beneficial in dysentery, stranguary, sore mouth, also for washing ofi'ensive 
sores and ring-worms. 

Golden Seal — It is a laxative and tonic, and an excellent remedy in 
costiveness, loss of appetite, jaundice, debility, liver complaint, and faint- 
ness at the stomach. Taken in doses of an even tea-spoonful, it is effica- 
cious in relieving unpleasant sensations occasioned by a hearty meal. 

Barberry. — The bark is tonic and laxative, useful in jaundice, loss of 
appetite, weakness of the digestive organs, and in all cases where golden 
seal is recommended. Dose — a tea-spoonful of the powdered bark. 

Hoarhound. — The root is stimulant and tonic, useful in coughs, colds, 
asthmatic afi"ections, and in pulmonary diseases. It may be prepared with 
honey or molasses. 

Fir Balsam. — Is a valuable expectorant and tonic, beneficial in coughs, 
colds, and all afi'ections of the lungs. 

Yarroio. — This plant is a valuable stimulant, an excellent remedy in all 
cases of female weakness, colic, and intermittent fevers. A decoction of 
the herb is also used as a wash for sores, salt-rheum, and piles. 

Golden Rod. — Is aromatic and slightly stimulant; is used for quieting 
pains in the stomach and bowels, flatulency, and for scenting other 
medicines. 

Cleavers. — Are useful on account of their diuretic properties ; also in 
inflammation of the kidneys and urinary obstructions. 



60 THE house-keeper's guide. 

Dandelion. — Is tonic and diuretic, an excellent corrector of the bile, and 

an invaluable remedy in hepatic diseases. 

Sassafras. — Steeped in water, it is an excellent wash for all kinds of 
humors. 

Ca /???/).- -Valuable for injections. In fevers, it promotes perspiration 
"without raising the heat of the body. 

Sage. — Useful in fevers, and for worms in children. Good substitute 
for tea. 

Cojnfrey. — This is mucilaginous ; valuable in coughs and all consump- 
tive complaints. 

Saffron. — Makes a valuable tea for children afflicted with the measles, 
chicken-pox, and all eruptive disease?. 

Coltsfoot. — A tea of this is good for hoarseness. 

Valerian.. — Good in all nervous complaints; a swallow or two taken 
occasionally will produce the same eflect as paregoric, and is every way 
preferable to it. 

Wild Cherry-Tree Baric. — A tea made of this is said to have cured con- 
sumption, if taken in season. 

HINTS TO HOUSEKEEPEKS. 

If your flat-irons are rough and smoky, lay a little fine salt on u flat 
surface, and rub them well; it will prevent them from sticking to any- 
thing starched, and make them smooth. 

Rub your griddle with fine salt before you grease it, and j-our cako 
will not stick. 

When walnuts have been kept until the meat is too much dried to bo 
good, let them stand in milk and water eight hours, and dry them, and 
they will be as fresh as when new. 

It is a good plan to keep your different kinds of pieces tape, thread, 
&c , in separate bags, and there is no time lost in looking for them. 

Oats straw is best for filling of beds, and it is well to change it as 
often as once a j^ear. 

Cedar chests are best to keep flannels, for cloth moths are never found 
in them, lied cedar chips are good to keep in drawers, wardrobes, clos- 
ets, trunks, &c., to keep out moths 

When cloths have acquired an unpleasant odor by being kept from 
the air, charcoal, laid in the folds, will soon remove it. 

If black dresses have been stained, boil a handful of fig-leaves in a 
quart of water, and reduce it to a pint. A sponge dipped in this liquid 
and rubbed upon them, will entirely remove stains from crapes, bum- 
bazines, &c. 

In laying up furs for summer, lay a tallow candle in or near them, 
and danger from worms will he obviated. 

To jirevent metals i'vom rusting, melt together three parts of lard 
and one of resin, and apply a very thin coating. It will preserve 
Kussia iron stoves and grates from rusting during summer, even in 
damp situations. The oliect is equally good on brass, copper, steel, &C 



MEOHAinOS' DEPARTMENT. 



Painting Glass Transparencies. — Provide a small inuller and a piece of 
thick ground glass, five or six inches square, to gi-ind the colors on ; also 
a small pallet knife, and a few bottles to put the colors in. For a red 
color get a little scarlet lake, and for blue a little Prussian blue. For 
green use purified verdigris ground with a quarter of its bulk of gamboge, 
and for brown use burnt utnber, and for black, burnt sienna black. These 
colors are truly transparent. Having all these colors ready, grind them 
in the balsam of fir mixed with half its bulk of turpentine; mastic var- 
Tiish will do very well, but the balsam is the most beautiful. To coat the 
glass black round the painting, dissolve asphaltuni in turpentine, and mix 
with lampblack. When the colors are all ground they must be put in 
separate bottles and sealed, and when they are to be used, a little bit is 
taken out at once on a piece of glass, just as much as is needed at once, 
as it quickly dries. If the color is too thick, it must be diluted with tur- 
pentine. To paint glass sliders, the subject must be designed on paper, 
and the paper put under the glass, and the glass painted above it accord- 
ing to the design of the paper underneath. 

Var7iishfor Wood Patterns. — The most simple varnish, combined with 
adaptation, is the following: One quart of alcohol and a quarter of a 
pound of gum shellac. This put into a bottle, and when wanted for use, 
mix up with a little lampblack to about the thickness of cream, and var- 
nish the pattern over, rubbing it into the grain of the wood, until a 
slight friction produces a polish. This varnish makes a smooth surface 
on the pattern, rendering it more easily drawn from the sand, and it fills 
up all pores, or worm-holes, that may be in the wood; consequently, a 
cleaner and smoother casting is produced. 

Crystal Varnish. — First, genuine pale Canada balsam and rectified oil 
of turpentine, equal parts; mix, place the bottle in warm water, agitate 
well, set it aside in a moderately warm place, and in a week pour ofi" the 
clear. Used for maps, prints, drawings, and other articles on paper, and 
also to prepare tracing paper, and to transfer engraving. Second, mas- 
tic, three ounces; alcohol, one pint, dissolved. Used to fix pencil draw- 
ings. 

Etching Varnish. — First, white wax, two ounces; black and Burgundy 
pitch, of each half an ounce; melt together, add, by degrees, powdered 
asphaltum, two ounces, and boil till a drop taken out on a plate will break, 
when cold, by being bent double two or three times between the fingers; 
it must then be poured into warm water, and made into small balls for 
use. Second, linseed oil and mastic, of each four ounces; melt together. 
Third, soft linseed oil, four ounces; gum benzoin and white wax, of each 
half an ounce; boil to two- thirds 

'Flexible Varnish. — First, India-rubber in shaving, one ounce; mineral 
naphtha, two pounds; digest, at a gentle heat, in a close vessel, till dis- 
solved, and strain. Second, India-rubber, one ounce; dr^nng oil, one quart; 
dissolve by as little heat as possible, employing constant stirring; then 
strain. Third, linseed oil, one gallon; dried white copperas and sugar of 
lead, each three ounces ; litharge, eight ounces ; boil, with constant agita- 



62 THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 

lion, till it strings well; then cool slowly, and decant the ciear. If too 
thick, thin it with quick-drying linseed oil. These are used for balloons, 
gas-bags, &c. 

Varnish J'cr Iron Work. — The beautiful, glossy, black varnish for iron 
work may be made by fusing one pound of amber in an iron vessel, and 
adding, while hot, one quart of boiled linseed oil and three ounces each 
of dark rosin and asphalLum, in powder. When the whole is thoroughly 
incorporated, take it off; and, when cool, add about one pint of turpen- 
tine. Several coats of this varnish are put on, and the articles are dried, 
after each application, in a warm oven. 

Anotlter. — To make a good black varnish for iron work, take eightpounds 
of asphaltum, and fuse it in an iron kettle, then add five gallons of boiled 
linseed oil, one pound uf litharge, half a pound of sulphate of zinc (add these 
sluwly, or it will fume over), and boil them for about three hours. Now 
add one and a-half pounds of dark gum-amber, and boil for two hours 
longer, or until the mass will become quite thick, when cool; after which, 
it slvjuld be thinned with turpentine to due consistency. 

Vamiahjor Iron Castings. — Heavy petroleum, mixed with coal tar, and 
applied warm, is an excellent varnish for iron castings. 

Black Japanning. — Black grounds for japan may be made by mixing 
ivory black with shellac varnish; or, for coarse work, lampblack, and the 
top coating of common seedlac varnish. A common black japan may be 
made by painting a piece of work with drying oil, and putting said work 
into an oven, not too hot; then gradually raising the heat, and keeping 
it up for a long time, so as not to burn the oil and make it blister. 

Torioise-SheLL Jajiayi. — This varnish is prepared by taking of good linseed 
oil one gallon, and of umber, half a pound, and boiling them together un- 
til the oil becomes very brown and thick, when they are strained through 
a cloth, and boiled again until the composition is about the consistence 
of pitch, when it is tit for use. Having prepared this varnish, clean well 
the vessel that is to be varnished (japanned), and then lay vermilion, 
mixed with shellac varnish, or with drying oil diluted with good turpen- 
tine, very thinly on the places intended to imitate the clear parts of the 
tortoise-shell. When the vermillion is dry, brush over the whole with the 
above umber varnish, diluted to a due consistence with turpentine; and 
when it is set and firm, it must be put into an oven, and undergo a strong 
heat for a long time. This is the ground for those beautiful tea-boards 
which are so nmch admired. The work is all the better to be finished in 
an annealing oven. 

Painting Japan Work. — The colors to be painted are tempered generally 
in oil, which should have at least one- fourth of its weight of gum sanderac, 
or mastic, dissolved in it, and it should be well diluted with turpentine, 
that the colors may be laid on thin and evenly. In some instances it does 
well to put on water-colors, or grounds of gold, which a skillful hand can 
do, and manage so as to nvake the work as if it were embossed. These 
water-colors are best prepared by means of isinglass size, mixed with 
honey, or sugar-candy. These colors, when laid on, must receive a num- 
ber of upper coats of the varnish above described. 

Trani^parent Painting on Linen. — Very fine nmslin is the best material 
for painting upon ; and before you begin to paint, a straining-frame must 
be made, of beech or hard wood, it should consist of two upright bars 
mortised at each end, with holes, into which top and bottom cross-bars, 
tenoned at the sides, can slide, much after the same puttern as the ordi- 
nary embroidery frame; but it i^; rarely reijuired larger than suitable for 
ii window biiud. Along the iimer cd^e of the frumo a strip of webbing 



THE HOCSE-KEEPER'S GtriDE. ^^8S 

i« pe^'manently nailed, and to this the muslin must be sewed before it is 
stretched. Having stretched the muslin, it is ready for the first prepara- 
tion, which is sizing. The best size is that made from parchment cut- 
tings; j^ou must have a pipkin, to hold about a quart of water. Having 
cut up the parchment into small strips, till the pipkin with water, and 
put them to simmer, but not to boil. When this operation has gone on for 
a couple of hours, you will have sufficient size, which should be allowed 
to cool, and then you will have a clear, transparent jelly. Remove the 
dregs from it, and boil in a clean pipkin as much as you will require; but 
recollect the more careful you are in the preparation of the size, the bet- 
ter will be the result of your workmanship. 

After the muslin is sized, it will be found to relax in the frame, aisd 
has, therefore, to be again full}' tightened. A second, or even a third 
coating of size is to be applied, when the former is dry, and the muslin 
again stretched, it it slackens. After a couple of days or more, when the 
size is quite hard, it must be rubbed smooth with pumice-stone; a smooth 
face may b6 obtained to the pumice-stone by grinding it on a stone flag 
with water. This operation of smoothing the size is very necessary, as 
the colors take better to the material than when this process is omitted. 
The muslin being now in a fit state to receive the paint, the subject of the 
design must be drawn upon it. In order to secure accuracy — for no 
" rubbing out" can be effected on muslin — it is a common practice to draw 
the intended outline first upon cartridge-paper, with a bold stroke, in ink, 
so that when fixed to the back of the muslin with threads, it can be seen 
through the fabric, and the picture be traced out on the muslin with a 
dark pencil. Another wa.\ of tracing a design is to employ the pounce- 
bag and a perforated pattern ; thus, for instance, take a natural leaf, such 
as that of the vine or ivy, lay it upon a strip of cartridge-paper; then 
perforate the paper all round the leaf with a pointer, or a thick needle 
fastened into a handle. On removing the leaf, a few perforation may be 
made, to indicate the arteries. If several strips of paper are placed under 
the leaf at once, repetitions of the designs can be readily obtained. 

The best pounce-bag is made of a couple of folds of muslin tied up like 
ft laundress's blue-bag, and filled with a finely-powdered charcoal. The 
perforated paper patterns being placed on the muslin, they are then 
pounced over, when the charcoal dust falls through the holes on to the 
muslin, and thus transfers the design of the leaf. If a border of leaves 
is required, it is only necessary to repeat the same leaf, but placed in dif- 
ferent positions — now left, now right, then overlapping each other. The 
same may also.be done with a butterfly, or any similar object. Having 
perforated the design of a bird on the wing, it will not look like the same, 
if its position is considerably altered, nowfljnngupin mid-air, now alight- 
ing on to a bough, then descending; the subsequent, coloring of the leaves, 
birds, and butterflies being also modified, changes their general appear- 
ance. 

Transferring Prints to Glass, Wood, ^c. — When it is desired to transfer 
a steel, copper, or lithographic print to glass, the first operation is to coat 
the glass with dilute lac, or clear copal varnish. The print is then moist- 
ened with water, and while the varnish remains sticky, the paper is placed 
on the glass with the print side upon the varnish ; it is then pressed gently, 
to make it adhere. Several folds of white paper are now placed upon the 
back of the print, also a board, with a light weight thereon, to keep the 
print and varnish in contact till both are dry."~ After this the paper is 
moistened, and rubbed off gently with the fingers, when the ink com- 
posifte the print is left adhering to the glass. The several parts of the 



'1(4 THE nOUSE-KEEPER's GUIDE. 

print may then be painted with appropriate colors, and then finished with 
a ground-coat over all. Prints may be transferred to wood in the same 
manner. The common mode of transferring ])rints to wooden blocks, for 
engraving, is to immerse a print for a short period in a solution of pot- 
ash, then place it upon the Ijlock and press it. The potash softens the 
ink on the paper of the print, and when phiced upon the block of wood 
and pressed, the impression is made in the same manner as printing 
in the usual wa3\ Prints are also transferred thus to stones for litho- 
graphic printing; also to puites of ziuc for printing in a lithographic 
press. 

Many very elegant designs can be perforated by folding the paper once, 
twice, or four times ; thus, whatever pattern is perforated will then be 
repeated through the other sections. In this wa}'- corners and centers are 
formed. The design, thus placed in outline on the linen, is now to be 
colored. AVe, of course, presume that persons employing themselves thus 
will have some knowledge of art, and it is now that their taste can be 
displayed. The rules which govern art are applicable to transparent 
painting, but our observations are limited to the specialities required to 
put it in practice. A fine sponge forms a good tool to lay on the tints for 
clouds and sk}', or distant hills, and coarse honey-comb sponge does well 
for luxurious foliage, rocks, &c. Flat hogs-hair brushes, the same as are 
used for oil-painting, do admirably for this work. Varnish colors, tem- 
pered with japanners' gold size and turpentine, are the best; the paints 
sold in tubes will be found convenient — copal varnish and pale-drying 
oil being used as a vehicle. 

Young persons who can draw, and are in want of a little occupation, 
either for amusement or as a means of income, can now, froni these hints, 
turn their attention to transparent painting; and there are too many ugly 
back windows to hide in every town for them to fear any lack of employ- 
ment. 

Colors for Stamping Muslin for Embroidery. — Lamp-black, mixed with 
a solution of gum arable or starch, will make a very good composition for 
stamping white muslin for embroidery. Prussian-blue, ground to powder, 
and mixed with a little boiled starch, answers for stamping blue on white 
muslin. All colors used for stamping should be of such a nature that they 
will wash out easily with soap and water; hence those fast colors, which 
are used to print on calicoes, are unsuitable. For stamping on a black 
ground — such as a piece of black cloth or velvet, common pipe-clay, mixed 
with a little starch, makes a white stamping composition. Lamp-black, 
mixed with resin in a molten condition, then cooled and ground to pow- 
der, with a little water, makes a good black for stamping. 

Collodion Formulce. — The following two receipts are from the PhotO' 
graphic News: Those who are in the habit of experimenting in the prep- 
aration of collodion for photographs will., probably, like to try the follow- 
ing formula, communicated by M. Jeanrenaud to the Muniteur de la Pho-> 
inyrap'nie. To counterbalance the drawback of complexity which seems 
to characterize it, is the strong recommendaLion of the author, who pos- 
sesses a high reputation. It is stated to give delicate results, to be very 
rapid and durable, improving rather than deteriorating with ago. Here 
is the formula: Soluble cotton, 8 parts; pure ether, 800 parts; alcohol 
(sp. gr. 830), 250 parts; iodide of cadmium, 9 parts. Dissolve, and add 
to 35 ounces of collodion 25 of pure bromine. To 3 ounces of the collo- 
dion then add 12 drops of strong liquid ammonia. A deposit is thrown 
down, which may be redissolveU by adding a few drops of glacial acetic 
acid. The 3 ounces are then added to the remainder of 35 ounces, and th^t 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 65 

whole left to settle for a fortnight. If it retain.s a straw color, it is fit for 
use; if it be colorless, add a few drops of bromine. 

M. Jeanrenaud also gives a formula for dry collodion, as follows: Take 
ordinary collodion, and add to it 5 per cent, of a solution of ether, satu- 
rated with yellow amber; tlie sensitizing bath consists of from 7 to 8 per 
cent, of nitrate of silver, and 2 per cent, of glacial acetic acid; the plate 
is then washed in four or five waters. The development may be eflected 
either by the ordinary bath of sulphate of iron, or with pyrogallic acid. 
"When the plates are large, it is necessary to fix the film around the edges 
by means of some varnish, either with alcohol or chloroform. M. Jean 
renaud found plates, so prepared, as sensitive, after the lapse of a montU 
as when first fixed. The time required is about double that of the wet 
process, and, for landscapes, varies from three to seven minutes, accord- 
ing to the light and the season. 

Damtnara Vaimifih. — ''Gum Dammara," as it is called, is a resin, not a 
gum. It IS employed for making varnish, by dissolving it in turpentine. 
The resin should be first well-dried, for, if it contains any moisture, it will 
iQwd. to make the varnish opaque. A common way to prepare it is to boil 
the resin in the turpentine in an open vessel ; but if the resin is thoroughly 
dried, it will dissolve slowly in cold turpentine, and form a clear var- 
nish. 

A good way to prepare it, on a large scale, is to use an enameled cast- 
iron vessel, capable of containing about fifty pounds, for making twenty- 
five pounds of the varnish. The dammara resin is put into the vessel in 
a solid state, the proper quantity of turpentine (five parts to four parts 
of resin) is then poured in, and the whole put upon the fire. As soon as 
the boiling begins, the water, originally included in the resin, is dissi- 
pated in the form of vapor^ and the resin acquires a softer consistence. 
vVhen all the water is expelled, and the varnish boils quietly, the solution 
is completed, and the vessel may be removed from the fire. As long as 
traces of water exist in the varnish, its boiling is attended with a bub- 
bling movement; but as soon as all the water is got rid of, the varnish 
boils quite quietly. When the varnish is prepared, it is poured through 
a fine wire-sieve, and then allowed to settle sufiiciently. If it be desired 
to give the varnish a tougher consistence, two or three per cent, of good 
bleached linseed oil (not boiled with oxide of lead) must be added to it 
before boiling. This communicates great toughness to it. 

Alloy for Jour7ial Boxes. — Take seven and a-haif pounds of pure copper 
and melt it in a crucible ; then gradually add, in small pieces, ninety-two 
and a half pounds of zinc; when this is melted, and the two metals thor- 
oughly mixed, the alloy is to be run into molds for journal boxes. A 
patent was granted May 1, 1855, for this alloy, to Thomas Forth, of Cin- 
cinnati, Ohio. 

Babbitt Metal. — Take twenty-four pounds of copper, and melt it first in 
a crucible ; then add, gradually, twenty- four parts of pure tin and eight 
of antimony. Great care must be exercised in adding the tin to the cop- 
per. This composition is rendered softer by the use of a greater quantity 
of tin. It is first run into ingots, then melted and cast, to form the jour- 
nal boxes, &c. 

Fi7ie Polislmig Powder. — Professor Vogel, of England, states, that the 
finest powder for polishing optical glasses and fine metals, is made by 
calcining the oxalate of iron. It is superior to the common polishing- 
powder for glass, made of lixivated colcothar. 

ConsoLidatiiig Cast'Steel. — Mr. J, M. Eowan, of Glasgow, proposes to 
consolidate cast-stuel, or metal produced by the pneumatic process, by cona- 
5 



'66 THE house-keeper's guide. 

pressing it while still liquid, or nearly so, whereby it is rendered much 
better adapted for subsequent processes. 

A harmless green, for coloring confectionery, may be made as follows : 
Take thirty-two parts of saffron, and infuse it in seven parts of water, ta 
which add twenty-six parts of the carmine of indigo in fifteen parts of 
water. The yellow saffron and blue indigo, when mixed, form a beauti- 
ful green color, which will combine with sugar solutions. 

A 7nost excellent Furniture Paste is made, by dissolving one part resin 
and one part beeswax in two parts of benzine. 

Refined Glycerine is a very suitable lubricator for clock-work. It does 
not freeze in cold weather. 

To Clean Brass. — Rub the surface of the metal with rotten-stone and 
sweet oil, then rub off with a piece of cotton flannel and polish with soft 
leather. A solution of oxalic acid rubbed over tarnished brass, with a 
cotton rag, soon removes the tarnish, rendering the metal bright. The 
acid must be washed off with water, and the brass rubbed with whitening 
in powder, and soft leather. "When acids are employed for removing the 
oxide from brass, the metal must be thoroughl\" washed afterwards, or it 
will tarnish in a few minutes after being exposed to the air. A mixture 
of muriatic acid and alum dissolved in water imparts a golden color to 
brass articles that are steeped in it for a few seconds. 

Cleaning Tinware. — Acids should never be employed to clean tinware, 
because they attack the metal, and remove it from the iron of which it 
forms a thin coat. We refer to articles made of tin plate, which consists 
of iron covered with tin. Rub the article fii-st with rotten-stone and sweet 
oil, the same as recommended for brass, then finish with whitening and a 
piece of soft leather. Articles made wholly of tin should be cleaned in 
the same manner. In a dry atmosphere, planished tinware will remain 
bright for a long period, but will soon become tarnished in moist air. 

Cleaning Silver-plated Articles. — White metal articles electro-plated 
with silver are now very common, and great care is required in cleaning 
them when tarnished. No powder must be used for this purpoae which 
has the least grit in it, or the silver will be scratched and soon worn off. 
The finest impalpable whitening should be employed, with a little soft, 
water, in removing the tarnish. They are next washed with rain water, 
dried and polished with a piece of soft leather, some rouge powder, or fine 
whitening, then finally rubbed down with the hand, which forms a most 
excellent polisher. 

Black on Chun-Barrels. — The following mode of producing a black 
coating on gun-barrels is taken from Mr. Wells's " Annual of Scientific 
Discovery" for the present year: First, take chloride of mercury and 
sal ammoniac; second, perchloride of iron, sulphate of copper, nitric acid, 
alcohol and water; third, perchloride and proto-chloride of iron, alcohot 
and water ; fourth, weak solution of the sulphide of potassium. These 
solutions are successively applied, each becoming dry before the other is 
used. No. 3 is applied twice, and a bath of boiling water follows Nos. 3 
and 4. The shade of color is fixed by active friction, with a pad of woolen 
cloth, and a little oil. The shade thus obtained is a beautiful black, of 
uniform appearance. This process is used in the manufacture of arms ut 
St. Etienne, France. We regret that the proportions of the difierent 
ingredients are not given. Several of our gunsmiths have made m-my 
inquiries as to the mode of producing the blue-black coating on the Whit- 
worth and other English rifles. Perhaps the above solution will effect 
the object. The alcohol is used to make the application dry quickly. 
The perchloride of iron and the sulphate of copper in No. 2 should b« 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 67 

'Used only in a moderately strong solution, and only about 10 per cent, of 
nitric acid added to the water. We hope that our gunsmiths will mee* 
with success in using these solutions. No. 2, applied in three or four 
coats, will form the common brown coating for gun-barrels. After the 
last application has become dry, it is rubbed with a wire scratch brush, 
washed with warm water, then dried, and afterward rubbed down with 
a composition of beeswax dissolved in turpentine. 

Aluminum Bronze. — Experiments have been made at the Koyal Gun 
Factory, Woolwich, England, by Mr. J. Anderson, to test the compara- 
tive strength, &c., of aluminum bronze. Its average breaking tensile 
strength was found to be 73,185 lbs per square inch, while that of com- 
mon gun metal is but 35,040 lbs. Its composition is 90 per cent, of cop- 
per, 10 per cent, of aluminum. The purest copper that can be obtained, 
such as that of Lake Superior, is the best to employ. It requires to be 
remelted three times before it becomes fit for practical purposes. The 
specific gravity of this alloy is said to be about that of cast-iron. It is 
far more rigid than brass or common gun-metal. It produces good cast- 
ings ; it can be drawn into tubes, rolled into sheets, and hammered like 
iron, and it is also capable of being soldered with brass. 

Bronzing Metals. — The production of diflferent colors on the surface of 
metals, such as works of fine art, <fec., is called bronzing. Mere surface- 
coloring is executed with metallic powders mixed and applied with a 
varnish. But the most perfect bronzing is produced by chemical action 
on the metal itself — its own surface being thus made to form the bronze 
color. Dr. Ure says, res})ecting this art : " Coins and metals may be 
handsomely bronzed as follows: 2 parts of verdigris and 1 part of sal- 
ammoniac are to be dissolved in vinegar; the solution is to be boiled, 
skimmed, and diluted with water, till it has only a weak metallic taste, 
and, upon further dilution, lets fall no white precipitate. This solution is 
now made to boil briskly, and is poured upon the objects to be bronzed. 
These objects must have been previously cleaned and made perfectly free 
from grease, and set in a copper pan. This pan, with the articles now in 
it, is put on a. fire, and the solution made to boil for some time. The 
articles, if made of copper, will acquire an agreeable reddish-brown hue, 
without losing their luster; but if they are boiled too long, the coat of 
oxide upon them becomes too thick, and looks scaly and dull ; and if the 
solution is too strong, the copper becomes covered with a white powder, 
which becomes green on exposure to the air. The pieces thus bronzed 
must be washed well in warm soft water, and than carefully dried, or they 
will turn green. The antique appearance is given with a solution of 
three-quarters of an ounce of sal ammoniac and a drachm and a half of 
binoxalate of potash {salt of sorrel) dissolved in a quart of vinegar. It 
is applied with a soft rag to the surface of the metal, then allowed to dry. 
Several applications are thus made, until a coating of sufficient thickness 
is obtained. Copper acquires a brown color by rubbing it with a solution, 
of the common liver of sulphur, or sulphuret of potash. 

The Chinese are said to bronze their copper vessels by taking 2 ounces 
of verdigris, 2 oujice^ of cinnamon, 5 ounces of sal ammoniac, and 5 
ounces of alum, all in powder, making these into a paste with vinegar, 
and spreading it upon the surface of the article, which should be pre- 
viously brightened- The article is then held over a fire, till it become uni- 
formly heated, then it is cooled, washed, and dried. It thus receives one, 
two, or several of such coats, until the desired color is obtained. An ad- 
dition of sulphate of copper to the mixture makes the color chesnut- 
brown. 



69 THE housekeeper's guide. 

A good method of hronzing copper articles, such as tea-ums, to prevent 
them tarnishing, is described in inOst all the best treatises on chemistry. 
It is as follows: The copper is first cleaned, then brushed over with per- 
oxide of iron (generally colcothar) made into a paste with water or Avith 
a dilute solution of the acetate of copper. The article is then placed in 
a muffle in a furnace, and heated cautiously for some time, then taken out 
and cooled. Upon brushing off the oxide, the surface underneath is found 
to have acquired the desired hue. 

Another method of bronzing copper is to brush it over with a paste of 
black lead, place it over a clear fire till moderately heated, then brush it 
off. A very beautiful bronze is thus produced. The surface of the cop- 
per must be perfectly bright when the black lead is applied. A thin film 
of wax or tallow applied to copper, and the article placed on a clear fire 
until the wax or grease begins to smoke, produces a bronzed surface. In 
all these operations great care is necessary in managing the articles prop- 
erly when subjecting them to the action of heat. 

The following is a receipt which we have been told will produce a 
beautiful dark bronze on brass: To 1 pound of muriatic acid add 6 
ounces of the peroxide of iron and 3 ounces of yellow arsenic; mix these 
together and let the solution stand for about two days, shaking it occasion- 
ally. The brass article, perfectly free from dirt and grease, is now to 1 e 
immersed in it, and allowed to stand for about three hours, when it turns 
perfectly black. It is then lifted out, and washed well in soft water, and 
dried in sawdust. After this it is coated with a paste of black lead used 
for iron stoves, and when dry, it is polished with a brush. After this it 
may receive a thin coat of lac-varnish. 

Dull Black Color on Brass. — The Practical Mechanic's Journal (Glas- 
gow) states that the dull black so frequently employed for brass optical 
instruments, may be produced as follows: First rub the brass with trip- 
oli, then wash it with a dilute solution of a mixture of one part of neutral 
nitrate of tin, and two parts of chloride of gold ; allow the brass to remain 
without wiping for about ten minutes, after which wipe it off with a wet 
cloth. If there has been an excess of acid, the surface will have assumed 
a dull black appearance. The neutral nitrate of tin is preparedly de- 
composing perchlorjde of tin in ammonia, and dissolving the precipitated 
oxide thus obtained in nitric acid. 

Staining Marble. — A solution of the nitrate of silver stains marble 
black ; a solution of verdigris applied hot stains it green ; a concentrated 
solution of carmine applied hot stains it red ; orpiment dissolved in am- 
monia stains it yellow; the sulphate of copper, blue; and a solution of 
magenta, purple^. The marble should be warmed before any of these 
solutions are applied, so as to open its pores, and enable it to absorb more 
of the coloring matter. Marble may be stained according to beautiful 
designs with such colors. This art was more extensively practiced in 
Italy during former ages than it is at present. 

Hardenivg Wood for Pulieijs. — After a wooden pulley is turned and 
rubbed smooth, boil it for about eight minutes in olive oil, then allow it 
to dry, after which it will ultimately become almost as liard as copper. 

Case-hardening Iron. — The hardness and polish of steel may be united, 
in a certain degree, with the firmness and cheapness of malleable iron, by 
case-hardening; it is a superficial conversion of iron into steel. 

The articles intended to be case-hardened, l)eing previou.-~ly finished, 
with the exception of polishing, are stratified with animal carbon, and the 
box containing them luted with ecpjal parts of sand and clay. They are 
then placed in the fire, and kept at a light, I'eci heat for half au hour 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 69 

when the contents of the box are emptied into water. Delicate articles 
may be preserved by a saturated solution of common salt, with any 
vegetable mucilage, to give it a pulpy consistence. The animal carbon is 
riothing more than any animal matter — such as horns, hoofs, skins, or 
I'^ather — sufficiently burned to admit of being reduced to powder. The 
box is commonly made of iron; but the use of it, for occasional case-har' 
dening upon a small scale, may easily be dispensed with, as it will answer 
the same end to envelop the articles with the composition above directed 
to be used as a lute; dry it, gradually, before it is exposed to a red heat, 
otherwise it will probably crack. The depth of the steel, induced by case- 
hai"dening, will vary with the time the operation is continued. 

A very speedy and most excellent method of case-hardening is effected 
by reducing some of the prussiate of potash to powder, and making it into 
paste, rubbing it over the finished iron while it is at a red heat, and then 
putting it in the fire again, and plunging it into water when the iron is 
at a blood-red heat. Another method consists in covering the polished 
iron with a paste of the prussiate of potash and flour, allowing it to dry, 
then placing it in a clear fire until it becomes red hot, when it is plunged 
into cold water. This may be repeated, to insure a greater depth of hard- 
ening. 

Enameling Cast-iron Vessels. — Reduce into fine powder and grind to- 
gether nine parts of red lead, six parts of flint glass, two parts of purified 
pearlash, two parts of purified saltpeter, and one part of borax. This is 
put into a large crucible about half full, and melted until a clear glass is 
obtained. This glass is then ground with water, and the cast-iron vessel 
is covered with a coating of it, and then heated in a muflie in a furnace. 
This will melt in a very short time if the furnace is at a good heat, and 
the cast-iron vessel will be covered with a very fine black enamel of a 
shining appearance. To make it tough, it should be put into an anneal- 
ing oven. 

Another very fine enamel for iron vessels is made as follows : Twelve 
parts of flint glass, four parts of pearlash, four parts of saltpeter, two 
parts of borax, and three parts of the oxide of tin calcined with common 
salt. This is treated the same as described above, and makes a white 
enamel. 

The cast-iron articles to be enameled are scoured bright with sand and 
dilute sulphuric acid, then dried, and the enamel past3 put on with a brush, 
or poured on the surface, and the excess dripped ofl. This paste is dried 
slowly in the air, and the articles baked in a hot o vet until the paste fuses. 
The heat is gradually raised to the melting point. 

Silvering by Powdered Tin. — A quantity of pure tin is melted and 
poured into a box, which is then violently shaken ; the metal assumes, 
when cold, the form of a very fine gray powder. This is sifted, to separ- 
ate any coarse particles, and is mixed with melted glue. When it is to 
be applied, it should be reduced, by the addition of water, to the consis- 
tence of thin cream, and is laid on with a soft brush, like paint. It ap- 
pears, when dry, like a coat of gray water color; but when it is gone over 
with an agate brusher, it exhibits a bright surface of polished tin. If the 
glue is too strong, the burnisher has no efl'ect; and if too weak, the tin 
crumbles off under the burnisher. A coating of white or gold-colored oil 
varnish, or lacquer, is immediately laid over it, according as it may be in- 
tended to imitate silvering or gilding. This kind of gilding is often used 
for covering wood, leather, iron, or other articles in constant wear. It is 
very ornamental 

Composition Jbr Wdding (hst-ateel. — Take ten parts of borax and ono 



70 THE house-keeper's guide. 

part of sal ammoniac; grind them together and fuse them in a metal-pot 
over a clear fire, takinor care to continue the heat until all spume has dis- 
appeared from the surface. When the liquid appears clear, the composi- 
tion is ready to be poured out to cool and concrete, when it is ground to 
a fine powder and is ready for use. To use this composition the steel is 
put into the fire and raised to a bright yellow heat ; it is then dipped into 
the welding powder, and again placed into the fire, until it attains the 
same degree of heat as before, when it is ready to be placed under the 
hammer. 

To Tin Small Articles. — To tin small articles, prepare a solution of the 
chloride of zinc, which is done by feeding muriatic acid with scraps of 
zinc until it will take up no more. A strong glass bottle is the best vessel 
for this purpose. Let the solution settle, and then decant the clear, and 
it is ready for use. Next prepare an iron pot, of such size as will suit 
the purpose for the work to be done. Next put the pot on the lire, and 
put in a sufficient quantity of tin to cover the work. When the tin is 
melted, put in as much beef or mutton tallow as will cover it about one 
quarter of an inch thick, which must remain in a clear melted state, tak- 
ing care not to let it get on fire. The iron, or any other metal to be tin- 
ned, must be well cleaned, either by filing or scraping, or polishing with 
sand. Let the article to be tinned be then wet with the chloride of zinc 
and carefully immersed in the tallow and melted tin, and if the article be 
well cleaned, it will, in a very short time, be fairly and perfectly covered 
with the tin, when it may be taken out. 

To tin a piece of plated metal, say a piece of copper plated on one side 
with silver, prepare a paste, which may be of common pipe-clay, and a 
very little wheaten flour wet up with water. Then take a &<.)ft brush and 
lay an even coat of the paste over the silver side, and lay it in a warm 
place to dry; then, when dry, it may be immersed in the pt)t of melted 
tallow and tin, as already described, and the copper side will be covered 
with tin ; but the silver will be protected from the tin by the paste, which 
may be removed by washing in water. 

To Gild Steel. — Make a neutral solution of gold in nitro-muriatic acid 
(aqua regia), and pour into it a quantity of sulphuric ether; the ether 
will take up the gold and float upon the denser acid. The article is 
then to be washed with this auriferous ether (with a hair pencil) ; the 
ether flies ofi", and the gold adheres. 

To Silver Brass. — Take one part of chloride of silver (the white pre- 
cipitate which falls when a solution of common salt is poured into a 
solution of nitrate of silver or lunar caustic), three parts of pearlash, 
one of whiting, and one and a half of common salt, or one part of chlo- 
ride of silver" and ten parts of cream of tartar, and rub the brass 
with a moistened piece of cork dipped in the powder. 

Tinning Cast-iron Articles. — Many articles, such as bridle-bits, small 
nails, &c., are manufactured of tinned cast-iron. Saucepans, goblets, and 
other hollow ironware, are tinned upon their inner surfaces. They are 
lirst scoured bright with sand and dilute sulphuric or muriatic acid, then 
washed thoroughly in soft water and dried. They are then placed over 
a fire and heated, when grain tin is poured in, and the vessel moved so 
as to roll the molten tin over the surface. Some powdered rosin is 
added, to prevent oxide forming on the surface of the iron. Hollow ves- 
sels of copper and brass are tinned in the inside in the same manner. 

l\nning Iron. — Cast-iron articles to be tinned, are first scoured bright 
with sulphuric acid and sand, then washed in clean warm water, and 
dried. They are afterxyard coated with zinc, and a coat of tin is put 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 71 

npon the top of the zinc, by dipping the articles in molten tin. When> 
the tinning operation is finished, the articles are placed in boiling water, 
and allowed to cool slowly. 

Coloring Gold. — A solution of two ounces of alum, two of saltpeter 
and one of sal ammoniac is used for coloring gold. Another pickle, used 
for coloring gold, consists of nitric acid eight ounces, muriatic acid ono- 
quart, sal ammoniac two ounces, alum one ounce, and water two gallons. 
The articles of gold are dipped in this for a few seconds, then washed 
thoroughly in pure water, and dried. Pale, brassy gold may be madO' 
to assume a deep reddish shade by using such a pickle or "dip." 

Preparing Kid Leather. — Yolk of egg is largely used in the prepa- 
ration of kid leather for gloves, in France, to give it the requisite soft-. 
ness and elasticity. The treatment of the skins in this manner is called 
by the French glove-makers nourriture. As a substitute for the yolk 
of egg, the brains of certain animals, which, in chemical nature, closely 
resemble the yolk of egg, have been used. For this purpose the brain 
is mixed in hot water, passed through a sieve, and then made into dough 
with flour and the lye of wood ashes. The glove-leather is also steeped 
for a short period in a weak solution of alum. The Indians of our^ 
forests employ the brains of deer and buflfalo, mixed with a weak lye 
of wood ashes, and, after this, they smoke the skins; the pyroligneous 
acid of the wood in the smoke accomplishes the same object as the alum 
used by the French skin-dressers. Indian-prepared skins stand the action 
of water in a superior manner to the French kid. Furs dressed in the. 
same manner resist the attacks of insects. It is believed that the carbonic 
acid in the smoke is the preservative principle which renders the skins 
tanned by the Indians superior to those tanned with alum and sumac in 
the usual way. The skins are rubbed with the mixture of the brains of 
the animals and the lye, by the squaws; then dried in the open air. Three- 
or four such applications are necessary before they are smoked in pits- 
covered with the bark of trees. 

Tanning Nets, Sails, and Cordage. — The cloth of awnings and sails, also 
of nets and cordage, may be prepared in a simple manner to endure for 
a far greater length of time than is usual with such articles. Take about 
100 pounds of oak or hemlock bark, and boil it in 90 gallons of water, 
until the quantity is reduced to 70 gallons; then take out the bark and 
steep the cloth, sails, or cordage in the clear liquor for about twelve hours; 
then take it out and dry it thoroughly in the atmosphere or in a warm 
apartment. The cloth should be entirelj^ covered with the tan liquor, and 
should lie loose in it, so as not to press the folds too closely together. By 
boiling the cloth or cordage in the tan liquor, it will be ready in a shorter 
period. Sail and awning cloth, so prepared, will redst the action of 
damp for j^ears, in situations where unprepared cloth will decay in a few 
months. 

Glazed Leather. — The basis for glazed, or what is called "enameled 
leather," is boiled linseed oil. The oil is prepared by boiling it with metal- 
lic oxides, such as litharge (oxide of lead) and white copperas (sulphate 
of zinc) until it acquires a sirupy consistency. Five gallons of linseed 
oil are boiled with four and a half pounds of white lead and the same 
weight of litharge, until the whole becomes thick like cream. This mix- 
ture is then combined with chalk in powder, or with yellow ocher, is 
spread upon the leather, and worked into the pores with appropriate tools. 
Three thin coats are thus applied, each dried before the other is put on, 
and when the last is perfectly dry, the surface is rubbed down with 
pumice-stone until it is quite smooth. A mixture of the prepared oil, with- 



72 THE house-keeper's guide. 

out ocher or chalk, but rendered black with ivory-black and thinned with 
turpentine, is now put on in one or two thin coats, according to circum- 
stances ; then dried. The final coating consists of boiled linseed oil and 
copal varnish, thinned with turpentine, and colored with lamp-black. The 
apartment in which such leather is dried is maintained at a temperature 
ranging from 134 to 170 deg. F. White enameled leather is prepared in 
the same manner; but white lead and chalk are exclusively used to thickeij 
the oil. Copal varnish colored with lamp-black, will make very good 
enameled leather, if it is put on in several thin coats, and dried after each 
application. 

Sulphurized Oil for Wood. — M. Lapparent, inspector of timber for tho 
French navj', states that he prepared a paint for preserving timber, com- 
posed of linseed oil, sulphur, and manganese, which was found very effec- 
tual. The flowers of sulphur were stirred into linseed oil in about equal 
quantities, by weight, and about twelve per cent, of the oxide of manga- 
nese added. This was applied to some oak logs, which were buried in a 
manure heap for six months, when the wood was found to be uninjured 
—no fungi being formed upon it. Unprepared wood subjected to the same 
treatment was covered with fungi. 

Nitrate of Silver. — The nitrate of silver is prepared by adding small 
pieces of pure silver to nitric acid (aquafortis) until effervescence ceases. 
The solution then formed is clear and caustic. It stains the hair, skin, 
and almost all animal substances, black. When boiled for a considerable 
period, it deposits beautiful clear crystals. It is very poisonous. Stains 
of the nitrate of silver may be removed by the cyanide of potassium. 

Cement for Mending Steam Boilers. — Mix two parts of finely-powdered 
litharge with one part of very fine sand, and one part of quicklime, which 
has been allowed to slake spontaneously by exposure to the air. This 
mixture may be kept for any length of time without injury. In using it, 
a portion is mixed into paste with linseed oil, or, still better, boiled in 
linseed oiL In this state it must be quickly applied, as it soon becomes hard. 

Cement for Joints of Petroleum Stills. — Take six pounds graphite (black 
lead), three pounds of dry slaked lime, eight pounds of the sulphate of 
barytes, and three pounds of boiled linseed oil, and mix them thoroughly 
together. The solid materials must be reduced to fine powder before being 
stirred among the linseed oil. If the above quantity of oil is not suflficient 
for making the cement sufficiently thin, add more, until the proper consis- 
tency is obtained. 

Linseed meal cake, reduced to powder, and mixed with water so as to 
make it into a paste, makes a good lute for stills which are not subjected 
to a temperature above "260 deg. F. 

Marine Glice. — Dissolve four parts of India rubber in thirty- four parts 
of coal-tar naphtha — aiding the solution with heat and agitation. The 
solution is then thick as crc'iuii, and it sh.ould be added to sixty-four parts 
of powdered shellac, which must be heated in the mixture till all is dis- 
solved. While the mixture is hot, it is poured on plates of metal in sheets 
like leather. It can be kept in that state, and when it is required to be 
used, it is put into a pot and heated till it is soft, and then applied v/ith 
a brush to the surface to be joined. Two pieces of wood joined with 
this cement can scarcely be sundered; it is about as easy to break the 
■wood as the joint. 

Cement for Leather Beli^. — A strong solution of isinglass is the best 
cement for joining leather hands. It may be kept from becoming moldy 
by adding to it some whisky and u little of the essential oil of cloves, 
or a little camphorated spirits. 



THE HOUSE- keeper's GUIDE. 73 

Cement for Attaching Ornaments to Wood. — A cement composed of glue, 
chalk, and paper pulp, is sometimes used for making architectural or- 
naments, to be attached to wood. Another cement, used for the same 
purpose is composed of fine sifted chalk, beeswax, and resin. Use equal 
parts of resin and wax, then melt them, and add the chalk until the 
composition attains the proper consistency. A strong solution of glue 
and whiting makes a very good cement for ivory. 

Rubber Cement. — Shreds of India-rubber or gutta-percha dissolved in 
refined turpentine, or good naphtha, will make a good cement for rub- 
ber shoes, shoe soles, etc. 

Boot and Shoe^ Edge Blacking. — Bring half a gallon soft water to a 
boil, and put in three-fourths of an ounce extract of logwood, and boil 
three minutes; then remove from the fire, and stir in forty-eight grains 
bichromate of potash, eight grains prussiate of potash, and one hundred 
grains powdered gum arabic. 

Varnish Blacking for Harness, etc. — Take one gallon alcohol and put 
in half pound orange shellac, and let stand, tightly corked, till the gum 
is all cut; then put in a tin vessel, which is to be set in boiling water 
over the fire, and add one and a half pounds pine pitch, one gill sweet 
oil, one gill Venice turpentine, and two ounces lamp-black, and heat till 
all are well mixed and thoroughly incorporated; then remove from the 
fire, and continue stirring till cool. 

Cement for Brick Walls. — Bricks are very porous, and absorb moisture 
freely; hence brick walls, exposed to long and severe rain-storms, fre- 
quently become penetrated, so as to dampen the plastering inside, which 
renders the room damp and unhealthy, besides injuring the wall. The 
best water-tight composition that can be employed for such a purpose, is 
a mixture of hydraulic cement and boiled linseed oil. 

To Gild Iron and Steel with Gold. — Make a solution of eight ounces of 
niter and common salt, with five ounces of crude alum, in a sufiicient quan- 
tity of water; dissolve half an ounce of gold, thinly plated and cut; then 
evaporate to dryness. Now dissolve in rectified spirit of wine, or ether, 
which will perfectly abstract the gold. The iron or steel is brushed over 
with this solution, and takes on a fine gilt resembling gold. 

To Silver Iron and other Metals. — Dissolve pure silver in nitric acid 
(aquafortis), and precipitate the silver with common salt ; make this pre- 
cipitate into a paste, by adding a little more salt and cream of tartar. 
Apply to the surface of the article to be silvered with a cork. 

To Stain Wood a Mahogany Dark. — Boil half a pound of madder and 
two ounces logwood in one gallon water, and brush the wood well over 
with the hot liquid. When dry, go over the whole with a solution of two 
drachms of pearlash in one quart of water. 

To Stain Mahogany Light. — Brush over the surface with dilute nitrous 
acid, and, when dry, apply the following with a soft brush : Dragon's 
blood, four ounces ; common soda, one ounce; spirit of wine, three pints. 
Let it stand in a warm place, shaking frequently; then strain. Eepeat 
the application until the proper color is attained. 

To Stain Maple a Mahogany Color. — Dragon's blood, half ounce ; alka- 
net, one-fourth ounce; alaco, one drachm; spirit of wine, sixteen ounces. 
Apply with a sponge or brush. 

Rosewood. — Boil eight ounces of logwood in three pints of Water until 
reduced one-half; apply it, boiling hot, two or three times, letting it dry 
between each application. Afterward put in the streaks with a camel- 



74 THE house-keeper's guide. 

hair pencil, dipped in a solution of copperas and verdigris, in a deception 
of logwood. 

Ebony. — Wash the wood repeatedly with a solution of sulphate of iron. 
Let it dry; then apply a hot decoction of logwood and nutgalls for two 
or three times. When dry, wipe it with a wet sponge; and when it is 
again dried, polish with linseed oil. 

To Stain Wood Red. — Use a strong decoction of Brazil wood and alum. 

To Siain Pitie Black. — The pine should be perfectly free from knots (as 
they will not color), and a strong solution of hot logwood rubbed carefully- 
all over the board, and then it is allowed to dry. Another coat may be 
given, or a number, according to the shade wanted. After the logwood 
is dried, a solution of copperas should be applied in the same way as the 
logwood. 

Solders. — Soldering is the art of uniting the surfaces of metals together 
by partial fusion, and the insertion of an alloy between the edges, which 
is called solder, it being more fusible than the metals which it unites. 
Solders are distinguished as hard and soft, according to their difficulty of 
fusion. Hard solders usually melt only at a red heat, but soft solders fuse 
at lower temperatures. In applying solder, it is of the utmost importance 
that the edges to be united should be chemically clean — free from oxide; 
and they should be protected from the air by some flux. The common 
fluxes used in soldering are borax, sal ammoniac, and resin. Hard silver 
solder is composed of four parts of fine silver and one of copper, made 
into an alloy, and rolled into sheets. It is quite difficult of fusion. Soft 
silver solder is composed of two parts of silver, one part of brass, and a 
little arsenic, which is added at the last moment in melting them. It will 
be understood that these alloys are commonly run into convenient bars, 
or strips, for use. Silver solders are used for soldering silver work, gold, 
steel, and gun-metal. A neater seam is produced with it than with soft 
solder. It is commonly fused with the blow-pipe. A strip of thin silver 
solder is laid on the joint to be closed, the blow-pipe is brought to bear 
upon it, when it melts and runs into the joint, filling it up completely. 
Button solder is employed to solder white metals, such as mixtures of 
copper and tin. It is composed of tin, ten parts ; copper, six ; brass, four. 
The copper and brass are first melted, then the tin is added. When the 
whole is melted, the mixture is stirred, then poured into cold water and 
granulated, then dried and pulverized, in a mortar, for use. This is called 
granulated solder. If two parts of zinc are added to this alloy, it makes 
a more fusible solder. Fine gold cut into shreds is employed as a solder 
for joining the parts of chemical apparatus made of platinum. Copper, 
cut into shreds, is used as a solder for iron. Hard silver solders are fre- 
quently reduced to powder, and used in that condition. Soft" solder con* 
s'ists of two parts of tin and one of lead. An excellent solder is made of 
equal parts of Banca-tin and pure lead. It is used for soldering tin-plate, 
and, if well made, it never fails. 

Starting Fires under Boilers. — A very mischievous practice exists in 
various parts of the country in reference to starting fires under steam- 
boilers preparatory to raising steam; this duty is intrusted to ignorant 
watchmen, who are too olten the agents of disaster. Those men are in- 
structed to light the tire at a certain hour, and generally comply with 
their orders, without exercising the least judgment on the subject; they 
rarely try the gauges, to see that there is water in the boiler, before ful- 
filling their duty. Wo can call to mind several accidents, or injuries, that 
have occurred to boilers from this very cause. The Detroit Locomotive 
Works once 1-ud a boiler heated so hot, by the carelessness of a watchman, 



TKE nOUSE-KEEPER'S GUIDE. 75 

as to "burn the felt lagging on the outside; and many other similar cases 
might also be cited. We have known instances where watchmen have 
started the fires under gangs of cylinder boilers, and raised steam in them 
to such an extent as to drive the water out of some into the others not in 
use, or not so full, thus running the risk of burning the boilers, and 
causing no end of delay and loss. The men in question ought not to be 
permitted to meddle in any way with a steam-boiler; and no persons, 
except those who are skilled in the management of them, and who are 
conversant with the properties of steam, should, under any circumstances, 
be intrusted with their control. Too many lives have been lost, and too 
much property scattered to the winds, by the ignorance of those who were 
temporarily left in charge of boilers. 

New Chrome Green. — The London Chemical News gives the following 
receipt for manufacturing a beauti-ful new chrome green-color, adapted 
for painting and topical printing: Take ten ounces of boiling water, and 
dissolve in it one ounce of the bichromate of potash, and to this add six 
pints of the biphosphate of lime, and three ounces of brown sugar. When 
these substances are mixed, a disengagement of gas takes place, and the 
liquid fumes. It is allowed to stand until this action ceases; then it is 
decanted, and Itift to stand for about ten hours, when a beautiful green- 
color is deposited. It is washed with cold water, and dried in a warm 
room. The green-color thus obtained is stated to be fixed on cloth, in 
printing, by mixing it with albumen. It may be used both as a water- 
color and as an oil-paint. 

Prevention of Decay in Timber. — The treatment of timber, to secure it 
fi-om rapid decay, is a subject of great importance to ship-builders, rail- 
way engineers, bridge-builders, and all others who are interested in the 
preservation of wooden structures intended to be exposed to the winds, 
the waters, and the weather. Iron is, undoubtedly, taking the place of 
timber, with advantage, for many purposes; but the latter material is so 
convenient, and so capable of being shaped and combined in suitable 
forms, that it will always be used to a great extent. One of its chief 
defects is its liability to rapid decay, depending upon its condition, and 
the circumstances connected with its application. Every item of infor- 
mation, therefore, which will tend to promote its durability is of great 
value. 

The sap of timber is composed of nitrogenous elements, which are called 
unstable^ because, under certain circumstances, they are so liable to change, 
producing rot. When timber is treated so as to alter the nature of the 
sap, or to dry it completel}^, by what is called seasoning^ it resists decay 
more effectually than if used without being dried. Moisture and confined 
air tend to procure decay in timber; and, on the other hand, timber, ex- 
posed to a free circulation of air, and shielded from moisture, will retain 
its strength, almost unimpaired, for centuries. The oak beams, rafters, 
and other timbers of old churches and houses which were built before 
the plastering of walls was introduced, have remained sound for six and 
seven hundred years. Of course, ships can not be kept dry, but if their 
timbers ^re well seasoned before they are exposed to the elements, it has 
been found, by experience at the French naval dock-yards, that they will 
endure five times longer than timbers not thoroughly seasoned. 

It is well known that when timber is steeped for a certain period in 
water, then exposed to the air to dry, it seasons more rapidly. It has 
been customary, therefore, to immerse ship-timber in water prior to dry- 
ing it. On this head, M. Lapparent states, that the practice of those ship- 
builders who steep their timber in sea-water is wrong, and that fresh 



76 THE nOTTSE-KEEPER's GUIDE. 

wat(;r is ttie n.ost suitable for this purpose. For oak planking, he states, 
it should be steeped one year in river water, two years in fresh water, not 
so frequently changed; while in brackish water, continually changing, it 
requires three years' immersion. 

In drying timber to season it, exposure to the air is the most simple 
method, but this requires a very long period of time for large ship- timber. 
Another method consists in drying it in large rooms exposed to currents 
of hot air driven in by fans. By this system, the surface of the timber 
is liable to become dry, and crack before the interior is seasoned, and, for 
planking, it is, therefore, objectionable. Another method has lately been 
tried near Cherbourg, France, which consists in exposing it to the smoke, 
steam, and gas of wood and coal under combustion. The small amount 
of moisture in the smoke prevents the timber from cracking, and M. Lap- 
parent looks upon this mode with favor. But his favorite method in 
treating timber, to prevent its decay, is the charring of its surface. He 
states that this plan was once tried, during the last centurj^, in the British 
royal dock-yards; that the frigate "Koyal William ' was built of carbon- 
ized timber, and that it was one of the most remarkable cases of durabil- 
ity on record. This system has been revived in France, with improved 
apparatus, and it is about to be extended to all the dock-yards in the 
empire. The timber to be operated upon is secured upon an adjustable 
table, and its surface is slightly charred by a flame of gas mingled with a 
jet of air. The consumption of gas is 200 gallons for 10 square feet of 
carbonized surface, and one man can carbonize 440 square feet in ten 
hours. Some timber is improved by giving its surface a very thin coat 
of tar before it is charred. It is stated that the whole surface of timber 
is carbonized with great uniformity by this method; and M. Lapparent 
says : " It ought to be applied to every surface in contact with, or in gen- 
eral intended to be surrounded by, moist and stagnant air." It is also 
recommended for treating the beams and joints of house-timber intended 
to be imbedded in the walls, or surrounded with plaster. By carboniza- 
tion, a practical and econonjical means is also olfered to railway com- 
panies of preserving, almost forever, their sleepers, particularly those of 
oak. In France, the annual cost for vine-props amounts to no less than 
$24,000,000. By charring these, this cost will be reduced two-thirds, and 
a relative saving will also be effected in thus treating hop-poles. As the 
vine and the hop are extensively cultivated in America, this system also 
deserves the attention of our people who raise these agricultural products. 

In building ships, M. Lapparent suggests that horizontal holes should 
be bored through the ribs, at certain distances apart, and there should be 
spaces between the outer and inner planking, to permit currents of air to 
bo driven between the ribs; also that poilion of the ribs should be 
smeared with a paint composed of flowers of sulphur, 200 parts; linseed 
oil, 135 parts; and manganese, 30 parts, to prevent the development of 
fungi. In conclusion, M. Lapparent says: " 1 have pointed out the means 
for preventing the rapid decay of timber; they are simple, logical, eco- 
nt)mical, easy of ado})Lion, and perfectly innocuous. By employing them, 
we shall save that timber for building ships, which is, in my opinion, far 
superior to iron for the same purpose." 

A correspondent of the London Builder states that the Belgian Govern- 
ment now require all the wood-sleepers used on the state railways to be 
creosoted, and the Government of Holland has adopted a similar resolu- 
tion. The creosote used is simply what is called the "dead oil" of coal 
tar. M. Crepin, a lielgian engineer, has also made a series of experimenta 
with creosoted timber, iu harbors ftud docks; and in his report^ lately pub* 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 77 

lished, he states that timber so treated was found successful in resisting 
the attacks of marine worms. Timber is used to a greater extent in Amer- 
ica than in any country of an equal population in the world. If, by any 
mode of treatment, our ship, bridge, railway, house, fence, and other tim- 
ber can be rendered twice or three times more durable, a saving to that 
extent may not only be effected in material, but in the labor required for 
preparing and applying it. All the processes, therefore, which have been 
set forth for preventing the rapid decay of timber deserve careful and 
general attenion, because they relate to interests which affect every class 
in the community. 

Petroleutn f 07^ Preserving Wood. — The oil-wells near Prome, in Burmah, 
have been in use from time immemorial. "Wood, both for ship-building 
and house-building, is invariably saturated, or coated, with the products 
of those wells. The result is entire immunity from decay, and the ravages 
of the white ants that, in that country, are so generally destructive. M. 
Crepin, a Belgian Government engineer, who has tried experiments upon 
the relative advantages of creosote and sulphate of copper for the preser- 
vation of timber in marine constructions from the attacks of worms, &c., 
says that creosoting is the only process he has found to succeed for this 
purpose. He states that sulphate of copper affords no protection whatever 
against the action of salt-water and marine insects. 

Another Method. — In order to prevent wooden posts and piles from rot- 
ting while in the ground, the following receipt will be found to answer 
every purpose : Fifty parts of resin ; forty parts of finely-powdered chalk; 
about three hundred parts of fine hard sand; four parts of linseed oil; 
one part of red oxide of lead, and one part of sulphuric acid, are mixed 
together. The resin, chalk, sand, and linseed oil are heated together in 
an iron boiler; the red lead and the sulphuric acid are then added. They 
are carefully mixed, and the composition is applied while hot. If it be 
not found sufficiently fluid, it may be made thinner by adding some more 
linseed oil. This paint, when cold and dry, forms a varnish of the hard- 
ness of stone. 

Testing Gilded and Silver Articles. — The following methods are em- 
ployed in the German revenue-offices for testing the value of articles that 
are gilded or silvered, and described in the Zeitschr. Deutsch. Ingenieure : 

Testing of Gold. — The ordinary method of testing gold is founded upon 
the insolubility of this metal in nitric acid. If a mark be made on the 
"touch-stone" with the article under examination, the gold is not dis- 
solved by this acid, whereas golden-colored alloys of inferior value are dis- 
solved and disappear immediately. When articles are very thinly gilded, 
the detection of the gold in this manner is uncertain, in v^hich case the 
following method may be used with advantage. This process depends 
upon the fact that an aqueous solution of chloride of copper is without 
action on gold, whereas, on golden-colored alloys, as brass, pinchbeck, &c., 
it produces a black spot. 

A little carbonate of copper is put into a test-tube, and to this is added, 
drop by drop, pure hydrochloric acid, till the blue powder has dissolved to 
a clear green fluid, occasionally warming it over a spirit-lamp. This 
concentrated solution of chloride of copper is diluted for use with from 
ten to eleven times its volume of distilled water. Before testing, the 
metallic surface must be well cleaned. This can be done effectually by 
brushing it for a minute or two with a little spirits of wine; or better, 
with absolute alcohol. 

The surface having dried, a little of the testing fluid is dropped on, and 
allowed to remain in contact for about a minute. The fluid is then re- 



78 THE house-keeper's guide. 

moved, by menn? of a pmall pipette, and the surface of the metal com- 
pletely dried with bibulous paper; if no dark spot be then visible, the 
article is coated with pure gold. If the metallic surface is but lightly 
gilded, a very slight blackening is sometimes remarked, which may throw 
a doubt upon the result. In such a case, to make quite certain, a little 
of the surface may be scraped otf, and then the testing fluid again 
applied. If a dark spot is then perceived, the article may be considered 
as very thinly gilded. 

If a further and more direct proof of the presence of gold is required, 
the article to be examined, or a piece of it, may be put into a porcelain 
Clip, and as much pure nitric acid poured over as will half cover it. 
The thin layer of gold covering the surface does not prevent the metal 
from being attacked by the acid, and the gold becoming separated, floats 
in thin films on the top of the liquid. The green metallic solution is 
now removed, and more nitric acid poured over the gold spangles: it 
is then somewhat warmed, and water finally added. The gold has now 
been fully tested by its insolubility in nitric acid, and it only remains 
to ascertain that it dissolves to a yellow solution in warm aqua regia. 

Thin gilding of this description is often met with in the French mock 
jewelr}'-; the coating is sometimes so thin that it not only deceives the 
eye, but it is diflicult to test by the ordinary methods. Instead of put- 
ting the entire article into the acid, and thus risking its demolition, a 
portion of the surface may be scraped otF with a knife, and tested with 
the nitric acid. When an article appears to be made of massive gold, 
the testing by means of the "touchstone" should be first resorted to. 

Tesiing of Silver. — The ordinary and very accurate method of testing 
of silver is founded upon the insolubility of chloride of silver in dilute 
acids and in water. This otherwise satisfactory test is, however, difficult 
to carry out when an article is very thinly plated with silver; but in 
all these cases a simple and very accurate test can be used, which is 
based upon the reaction of chromic acid upon metallic silver. For this 
purpose testing fluid is prepared by adding pure nitric acid to powdered 
red chroraate of potash, and mixing them in such a manner that a part 
of the latter remains in suspension, the whole being kept well stirred 
during the mixing. Equal parts by weight of each may be taken. The 
nitric nmst be quite free from hydrochloric acid, and have the proper de- 
gree of concentration, being neither too fuming nor too dilute; it should 
have a specitic gravity between 1.20 and 1.25. When the mixture has 
been prepared for a few hours, and then stirred several times, the reddish- 
colored liquid is poured ofl" from the residue and kept in a stoppered bottle. 
A dr.>p of this liquid is then brought in contract with tlie metal to be test- 
ed, and immediately washed off again with water. If a visible blood-red 
spot remains, silver is present. 

This method requires only the following precautions: First, the met- 
allic surface must have been quite cleansed from grea.se, &c., with 
s))irits of wine; secondly, water must be poured over the treated surface 
before judging of the color, as that of the testing fluid is altered by the 
metal, and the red precipitate is not distinctly visible until the colored 
liquid has been washed otf. The red spot can afterward be very easily 
removed with the lingei-. 

By this method the slightest trace of silver in an alloy may be ascer- 
tained. When an article is suspected to be only thinly plated, a very mi- 
nute drop of the testing fluid should be used. Wit!) no other metal or 
alloy does this red spot, so characleristic of silver, ajipear. In some cases 
the testing Quid only corrodes the surface of the metal, while in otliera 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 79 

colored precipitates are formed, which, however, can not be confounded 
with those of silver. German-silver, brought into contact with the testing 
fluid, affords no red spot after being washed. The spot will, however 
have been strongly corroded. 

Britannia metal yields a black spot ; zinc is strongly corroded ;. pla- 
tinum is not attacked; lead gives a yellow preciy)itate ; tin is strongly 
affected by the fluid; when the brownish-colored testing fluid is washed 
off, a yellow precipitate is perceived, which adheres tightly to the metal; 
copper is strongly attacked ; a tarnished surface of this metal is bright- 
ened by the action of the acid. Bismuth yields a yellow precipitate; 
untimony does not ; by this means, therefore, these two metals, some- 
what similar in many respects, can easily be distinguished. Mercury, 
or an amalgamated surface, yields a reddish-brown precipitate, which, 
however, is entirely washed away by the water, and is not likely to be 
confounded with the silver reaction. 

Destructive effects of Iron Rust. — The last published report of the Smith- 
sonian Institution contains a translation from a German publication on the 
above subject, which affords considerable information of a useful and inter- 
esting character, some of which we shall present in a condensed form. 
It states that it has been frequently observed that, in the timber of old 
ships, the wood, in the proximity of iron -bolts, is entirely altered in its 
character. Around each bolt, for a space exceeding one inch, part of the 
wood is dissolved away, and the remainder is quite brittle, and easily 
broken. The appearance of such wood is such as if it were produced by 
driving in red-hot iron bolts. This injurious effect of iron-rust is one of 
the principal causes of the want of durability in iron-fastened ships. Bust 
not only originates where the iron is alternately exposed to water and the 
air. but also where the iron is permanently submerged under water. It 
is generally known that rust is an oxide of iron, but as soon as it comes 
into contact with wood, it gives off part of its oxygen, and becomes the 
protoxide. The latter takes up a new portion of oxygen, and transfers 
it to the wood, and, by the uninterrupted repetition of tnis process, a slow 
decay of the wood is effected. The protoxide of iron, m this case, plays 
a part similar to nitric oxide in the manufacture of sulphuric acid. 

In order to demonstrate the fact that oxide of iron is reduced by mere 
contact with organic substances (such as wood) not yet in a state of putre- 
faction, M. Kuhlman. of Lille, has instituted different experiments, the 
results of which confirm the correctness of this assertion. When hydrated 
oxide of iron, for example, was mixed with cold solutions of logwood, 
cochineal, corcuma, and mahogany, they were decolorized, and the iron 
was found in a state of protoxide, the oxide having lost a portion of its 
oxygen by the action of the coloring matter. In every-day life, the de- 
structive effects of the oxide of iron have been noticed. For example, 
linen or cotton cloth, containing ink-stains, becomes tender in its texture, 
in the stained spots, after repeated washings, and the spots ultimately fall 
out, leaving holes in the fabric. When cloth that is colored with cop- 
peras, to form a black, is submitted to an alkaline ley, the protoxide of 
iron is changed into an oxide, and the cloth becomes feeble in the texture; 
and the usual saying in such cases is, " It is burnt in dyeing." Accord- 
ing to Kuhlman, the oxide of iron transfers oxygen directly to the cloth, 
producing slow combustion of the fiber. This is useful information for 
dyers, as it explains the cause of an evil connected with preparing cotton 
cloth, which has hitherto baffled much scrutiny and experiment to dis- 
cover. It is also well Icnown to bleachers, that when pieces of cotton 
cluLh become stained with iron-rust they are liable to drop out, leaving 



80 THE hottse-keeper's guide. 

holes, as if they had been sprinkled with sulphuric acid. Every spot of 
iron-rust should, therefore, be immediately discharged, when noticed, by 
the use of dilute hydrochloric acid and warm water, or oxalic acid and 
warm water. 

In ship-building, iron nails and bolts should never be used. In all cases, 
copper or brass-fastenings should be employed where first cost is not an 
essential object. In cases where the expense will not warrant the u^e of 
copper-bolts, the iron-bolts should be galvanized. Recently we have 
noticed, with much satisfaction, the extended use of zinc-covered iron- 
bolts by our ship-builders. This is a step in the right direction ; but, so 
far as we are informed, such bolts are confined to the construction of sea- 
going vessels. All our river-boats and schooners should be fastened with 
the same kind of bolts, because they are nearly as essential for vessels 
running on fresh water as those on salt. 

To Put a Paper ^'■Positive'' into a Looking-g-lass. — Having cut out the 
picture, take a quarter plate-glass, well cleaned, lay a sheet of tin-foil on 
two or three thicknesses of cloth or paper, and spread some quicksilver 
with a piece of cotton-wool. Next, attach the portrait with varnish to the 
glass. All being ready, lay a sheet of clean paper on the top of the quick- 
silver, and place the glass, with portrait attached, on the sheet of paper. 
Now press hard, and draw out the sheet of paper gently. The quicksilver 
will run round the edge of the portrait, making a beautiful looking-glass, 
with a portrait in the center, giving an eftect something like a daguer- 
reotype. 

Water-glass in Soap. — In the last number of SlUhnan's Journal, Mr. 
J. M. Ordway, who has devoted much attention to the composition and 
application of alkaline silicates, states that a mild silicate (water-glass) is 
now manufactured in Boston and New York, and has come into very 
general use among soap-makers. It is used as a substitute for resin, which 
had been largely emploj-ed in the manufacture of soap, before the block- 
ade of the Southern ports. It materially reduces the cost of soap, and 
imparts neither color nor smell to it. About sixty per cent, of the fluid 
silicate, it is stated, may be mixed with the common materials that aro 
employed for making bar-soap. Mr. Ordway says: "It is certainly quite 
safe to incorporate twenty-five or thirty pounds of liquid water-glass with 
one hundred pounds of pure oleostearate of soda. The compound thus 
produced has greater detersive power than common soap." 

Cement for Crockery, Qaeensware, etc. — Take 10 or 15 cents worth of com- 
mon gum shellac, and boil in a pint or more of water till it becomes 
perfectly soft and plastic ; now raise it out of the water with a flat stick, 
and pull and work it with the hands, the same as molasses candy. 

Directions for use. — Heat the edges of the parts to be mended by a 
spirit-lamp or hot stove, till hot enough to readily melt the wax when 
rubbed over the broken edges, so as to leave a thin coating, on every 
part to be joined, like varnish; having applied the cement in this way to 
all parts of the broken edges, hold them again to the fire, and as soon as 
hot enough to be thoroughly plastic, put the parts immediately together, 
and press firmly till cold. The cement must be sufficiently warm to 
permit of its being pressed out so as to make a close joint, otherwise it 
will not be strong. In case of a failure to do this the first time, heat the 
dish again, and press hard as before. A large dish, broken irregularly, 
can be heated in the oven of a cook-stove, and handled with cloths. This 
cement will stand washing in warm water. 



FARMERS' DEPARTMENT. 



To Make Cheese. — Skim-milk does not make good cheese. Take fresh 
milk, and heat it to ninety degrees before you put in the rennet. Three 
quarts of milk yield about a pound of cheese. Allow a quart of lukewarm 
water and a table-spoonful of salt to a piece of rennet about the size of 
your hand. The rennet must soak all night. 

Put the milk into a large tub, warming a part until it is of a degree of 
heat quite equal to new; if too hot, the cheese will be tough. Put in as 
much rennet as will turn it, and cover it over. Let it stand until com- 
pletely turned; then strike the curd down several times with the skim- 
ming-dish, and let it separate, still keeping it covered. There are two 
modes of breaking the cui'd; and there will be a difference in the taste 
of the cheese, according as either is observed; one is, to gather it with the 
hands very gently toward the side of the tub, letting the whey pass 
through the lingers till it is cleared, and lading it off as it collects; the 
other is, to get the whey from it, by breaking the curd. This last method 
deprives it of many of its oily particles, and is, therefore, less proper. 

Put the vat on a ladder over the tub, and fill it with curd by the skim- 
mer; press the curd close with your hand, and add more as it sinks; and 
it must be, finally, left two inches above the edge. Before the vat is filled, 
the cheese-cloth must be laid at the bottom; and, when full, drawn smooth 
over all round. 

There are two modes of salting cheese; one, by mixing it in the curd 
while in th« tub, after the whey is out ; and the other, by putting it in the vat, 
and crumbling the curd all to pieces with it, after the first squeezing with 
the hands has dried it. Put a board under and over the vat, and place 
it in the press ; in two hours turn it out, and put on a fresh cheese-cloth: 
press it again for eight or nine hours ; then salt it all over, and turn it 
agam in the vat, and let it stand in the press fourteen or sixteen hours, 
observing to put the cheese last made undermost. Before putting them 
the last tmie into the vat, pare the edges if they do not look smooth. 

Managemeyit of Cream iii Cold Weather. — For some reason not yet known, 
cream, skimmed from milk in cold weather, does not come to butter when 
churned so quickly as that from the same cow in warm weather. Perhaps 
the pelicles, which form the little sacs of butter in the cream, are thicker 
and tougher. There are two methods of obviating this trouble in a great 
degree. One is, to set the pan of milk on the stove, or in some warm 
place, as soon as strained and let it remain until quite warm — some say 
until a bubble or two rises, or until a skim of cream begins to form on 
the surface. Another mode recommended, is to add a table-spoonful of 
salt to a quart of cream; then it is skimmed. Cream, thus prepared, will 
generally come to butter in a few minutes, when churned. It is thought 
the salt acts upon the coating of the butter globules, and makes them ten- 
der, so that they break readily when beaten by churning. 

We believe, upon good authority and practice, that the best tempera- 
ture for churning milk is about 62 degrees Fahrenheit. It should never 
much exceed, or be allowed to fall, below this. If churned at a lower 
6 81 



82 THE house-keeper's guide. 

temperature, the butter will not separate freely; and if churned at a higher 
temperature, a considerable portion of the casen is always found combined 
with the butter. This gives it a lard-like appearance and taste. By the 
addition of hot or cold water, as may be required, and the use of the ther- 
mometer, to test the temperature, there is but little trouble experienced 
in churning it 

A New Method of Making Rutier. — Put your sweet milk into tin pans, 
and simmer on the stove for fifteen or twenty minutes, being careful not 
to burn the milk; then churn in the usual manner. This will produce 
butter immediately, and of a far superior quality to that made in the or- 
dinary way, and will keep sweet much longer. Besides, the milk being 
left sweet, is nearly as good for other purposes. 

Packing Butter. — After laying down the first churning, make a strong 
brine, and cover it three or four inches deep. When you are read}- to lay 
down the next one, turn oflf the brine, pack your butter firmly, and again 
cover it with the pickle, and so on till your firkin or jar is full, when it 
is to be headed or covered up with the brine on. In this way it will keep 
sweet two years. 

Preserving Meat Under Ground. — Dig a hole in the earth, from four to 
six feet deep, and large enough for the amount of meat you have to 
cure; lay boards on the bottom, and on this pack your meat in salt — 
the usual quantity — and then cover the hole with boards and earth, 
keeping it in this condition till the meat is sufiiciently salted. By this 
mode of preserving, no person need lose a pound of meat in the warmest 
climate. 

Curing Bacon without Smoke. — Kill your hogs as early as the weather 
will allow, and salt as soon as the nominal heat is gone, with plenty of 
pure salt, and from one-half to one ounce of salpeter to each 100 pounds 
of pork. As soon as the meat is salted to the taste, which generally will 
be in about five weeks, take it oiit, and if any of it has been covered with 
brine, let it drain a little. Then take black pepper, finely ground, and 
dust on the hocks as nmch as will stick; then hang up in a good, clean, 
dry, airy place. If all this is done as it should be, you will have no fur- 
ther trouble with it, for by fly time in spring, your bacon will be so well 
cured on the outside that dies or bugs will not disturb it. 

Curing Hams. — The following method of curing ham is given by R. 
M. Conklin, in the Country Gentleman: After cutting out the hams, 
they are looped by cutting through the skin so as to hang in the smoke- 
rooa:is hank downward ; then take any clean cask, of proper dimensions, 
which is not necessary to be water-tight; cover the floor or bottom with 
coarse salt ; rub the hams in fine salt, especially about the bony parts, and 
place them on the bottom of the cask with the rind down, covering the 
flour of the cask first; sprinkle dry fine salt evenly all over them wher- 
ever it will lie, so as to cover them perhaps half an inch ; then lay others 
on them, letting the shank dip or incline considerably, placing salt in 
all cases between them where they come in close contact with each 
other or with the sides of the cask ; small lumps of salt will be found 
very convenient for this purpose. Sprinkle fine salt over this as before 
directed, giving the thick part of the ham a good share, as the shank 
begins more and more to incline downward. Proceed in this way until 
the hams are all salted, always observing to place them skin down and 
flesh side up; and if thoy sometimes get standing too much on eiul, the 
difliculty may be obviated l>y using a small ]iiece of j'ork as a check. Let 
them lie about five weeks, if of ordinary siiie; if larger, six weeks, and 
then smoke tlium. 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 83 

I have constructed a smoke-room over my kitchen, in the garret — made 
dark — and so as to admit smoke from the chimney. Here I hang the 
nams and let in smoke until they are smoked enough, and this completes 
the entire operation; nothing more is done — no securing against flies, for 
they never enter this dfirk chamber, and when we want a ham we go to 
the smoke-chamber, and take it from the hook. During a period of 
twenty-five years, I have not lost a ham ; but before adopting this mode, 
through careless smoking, injudicious salting, or from flies, I was continu- 
ally suffering disappointment with ni}^ hams. Possibly hams may have a 
better flavor by using other ingredients with salt, yet where I have had 
opportunities of tasting such cured hamSj I confess my inability to detect 
their superiority. 

Sugar-cured Hams. — For one hundred pounds meat take seven pounds 
salt, live pounds sugar, two ounces saltpeter, and one half ounce sal eratus, 
and dissolve in four gallons of water. Heat and skim it; then pour on 
your meat, suflicient to cover, and lot it lay eight weeks ; then take out 
and smoke, after which bag them and hang them up with the little end 
down. 

Setting Sweet Potatoe Plants. — It is better to prepare your ground im- 
mediately before the planting, as the freshly-prepared ground is much 
looser, and is, therefore, more suitable to receive the plants. Having got 
the ground together with your plants all ready, no matter how dry the 
weather, commence about the middle of the afternoon, having tubs or 
barrels of water conveniently situated, and use about a tea-cupful of 
water to each plant. The ground being loose, the four fingers of the 
right hand are passed down about their length into the earth, and the dirt 
pulled up so as to make a hole large enough for a cup of water. With 
your left hand, carefully set your plant down as it should stand. Now 
let some person pour on the cup of water, which will cause the fibrous 
roots to swim and straighten out azid stand in their natural position. Now 
quickly let the dirt in your right hand be conducted around your plant 
in as loose a manner as possible, leaving the top of the plant properly 
out of the ground. No packing is desirable in this case. By using this 
method we never have to wait for a suitable season, but get the plants 
ready as soon as possible. Thus set they commence growing right along, 
and live and do better than if planted in any other way, unless it is a 
very favorable season. Much time is saved, and we have a much larger 
and more abundant crop. If the water is slightly manured, it will still 
be better. 

To Keep Siveet Potatoes. — To keep the sweet potato for use through 
the winter requires much care. One great requisite is, to have the potatoes 
gathered before they are injured by fri>st or by remaining in cold soil after 
the vines are killed. Another very important item is to have them care- 
fully handled. If they are dry when brought from the field, they may be 
put up the following day; if moist, they should be allowed to dry 24 hours 
before putting up. If muddy and wet, a longer time is needed. Throw 
out all cut and bruised ones. 

The potatoes may be placed in boxes or bins of any convenient size, 
only that they must not contain potatoes more than 16 inches in depth, 
and if placed one above another must have an air space of at least two 
inches between the bottom of one and the top of another. They should 
be raised from the floor four inches, and not nearer any wall than three 
inches. Sprinkle a little sand in the bottom of the box, then fill half full 
of potatoes, then shovel in sand until the crevices are well filled, then fill 
up with potatoes and finish with sand, having an inch of sand above the 



84 THE house-keeper's guide. 

top of the potatoes. Tho sand should be drj^ dusty and screened if possi- 
ble, so that it will run Avell. The best time to secure the sand is in the 
months of August and September. Dry it on a platform of -boards in the 
sun, and store it away in a dry place. It will require about one-third 
as much bulk of sand as there is of potatoes to be put up. To keep well, 
the sweet potato needs an even temperature. 

How to Stow Potatoes and Preserve them from Rot. — Dust over the floor 
of the bin with lime, and put in about six or seven inches deep of potatoes, 
and dust with lime as before. Put in six or seven inches more of pota- 
toes, and lime again ; repeating the operation till all are stowed in that 
way. One bushel of lime will do for forty bushels of potatoes, though 
more will not hurt them — the lime rather improving the flavor than 
otherwise. 

Another Method. — Fill a basket with potatoes and dip them into a 
kettle of boiling water, and let them remain two or three minutes. Re- 
peat the operation till you have thus cured all you want for spring use. 
The boiling water kills the germ so they will not sprout and become soft. 
Dry them before packing away. 

Cidtivaiing Pla^its when the Dew is On. — The following interesting 
and practical information is from a correspondent of the Country Gentle- 
inan : 

Fifteen years ago, I noticed a plot of cabbages, the large firm heads of 
which I could not account for from anything apparent in the soil. On 
asking the owner how he made from such soil so fine and uniform a crop, 
I found his onl}^ secret was that "he hoed them while the dew was on." 
He thought that in this way he watered them, but of course the good re- 
sulted more from the ammonia than the moisture of the dew. 

I adopted the practice the fc^llowing year, and with the result was so 
well satisfied, that I have since continued and recommended it to others. 
There will be a very great diflerence in the growth of two plots of cab- 
bages, treated in other respects alike, one of which shall be hoed at sun- 
rise, and the other at mid-day; the growth of the former will surprisingly 
exceed that of the latter. 

A story in point sometime since went the rounds of the agricultural 
press of which the substance follows: A small plot of ground was divided 
equally between the hired lad of a farmer and his son, the proceeds of its 
culture to be their own. They planted it with corn, and a bet was made 
by them as to which should make the best crop. At harvest the son came 
out some quarts behind. He could not understand the reason, as he had 
hoed his twice a week until laid by, while he had not seen the hired lad 
cultivate his plot at all, and yet he had gained the wager. It turned out 
the winner's crop had been hoed quite as frequently, but before his rival 
was up in the morning. Providence, it seems, follows the hoe of the early 
riser, with a special and increased reward. 

But there are exceptions. Cultivating while the dew is on, manifestly 
benefits such gross feeders as cabbage and corn, but there are plants very 
impatient of being distui'bed while wet. The common garden snap and 
running beans are examples; and if worked while wet, even with dew, 
the pores of the leaves seem to become stopjied, and the whole plant is 
apt to rust and become greatly injured. AVhether the lima beans and 
other legumas are as impatient of being hoed in the dew, 1 have not as- 
certained. Experiments should, however, be tried the coming season on 
all hoed crops. 

PLunilvg and Cultivating Sorghum. — In the treatise on "Sorgho" of 
Isaac A. Hcdgeg — who is said to have been the pioneer and practical 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 85 

-jxperimenter with the Chinese sugar-cane in the West — he states that 
sufficient attention has not usually been given to the preparation of the 
soil and planting of the seed. The soil should be plowed very deep, 
as the roots sometimes penetrate three feet downward. A free use of 
lime and wood-ashes is advantageous to the crop. It has been recom- 
mended to plant the seed in rows running north and south, but as the 
westerly winds are most destructive in laying the standing crop, rows 
running east and west should be made, because they will stand up much 
better against such gales. The Chinese cane may be transphmted like 
cabbage plants, and early cropfi may be raised by starting hot-beds and 
transphmting in May or June. Or, when the seed is planted in the field, 
missing hills may be supplied with plants taken from a prepared bed. 
Every farmer who plants sorghum should pursue this method. If plant- 
ed in hills, these should be about four feet apart; if in drills, the seeds 
should be about six inches apart. Careful planting is the first important 
step to secure an early and a paying crop. 

Upon the subject of treating the seed of the imphee, Leonard Wray, 
who introduced it from South Africa, says: "I have sometimes soaked 
it for twenty-four hours in warm water previous to planting, in order 
to expedite its germination, as seeds so treated will, in warm, moist wea- 
ther, be up in four days afterward; whereas, being planted (during 
showery weather) without this assistance, they usually take six or seven 
days for sprouting; and if dry weather sets in after planting, it will be 
ten or fourteen days before they appear above ground. The practice of 
soaking I hold to be a good one." An argument in favor of soaking 
the seed is also advanced by Mr. Hedges; he says: I would especially 
caution farmers against planting seed without first having tested its ca- 
pability of germination ; then having satisfied themselves on this point, 
let care be taken not to plant too thickly." Shallow planting is also 
recommended. In no case should the seed be set more than an inch in 
depth, and half an inch is sufficient. When set deep, the seed is liable 
to rot should rain occur immediately after planting. In all cases it 
should be planted in ridges — never in furrows, so that it may receive 
greater warmth from the sunshine, and not be so liable to be saturated 
with moisture during wet weather. About from eight to ten seeds are 
recommended for each hill. 

After the plants of the cane are up, an occasional top-dressing of 
plaster and lime is suggested by Mr. Hedges. The best crop of sorghum 
we ever examined in New York was planted on loamy soil sloping to 
the south, and the plants had received a top-dressing of manure from 
tne hen-house. A prize was awarded to this crop by one of the county 
Rgricultural societies. The custom of hilling around the rows, as in corn 
culture, is advantageous; and early cultivat on beiween the rows, to keep 
down the weeds, is positively necessar}- to secure a good crop. 

Cultivating Flax. — At a late meeting of the Munster (Ireland) Flax 
Improvement Society, a large cultiviitor (jf flax stated that the best seed 
to use was that of Kiga, in Eussia. Dutch seed was very good, but the 
American was very inferior, and sold ftjr fifty per cent, less than Riga. 
More than one-half of the flax grown from American seed goes into tow 
when scutched, while three-fourths of that obtained from Eiga seed was 
good long flax. 

Flax-seed for sowing should be of the previous year's growth, and it 
Ehould be plump, heavy, glossy, of a uniform size and a clear brown color. 
All seeds of a light drab color should be rejected. 

Too much pains can not be taken to get seed which is fully matured 



86 THE house-keeper's guidk 

and perfectly cleun — free from fill foul seed — both to secure a good mer 
charitable crop, and to preserve the land on which it is sown from trouble- 
some weeds. Farmers often experience i?:reat difficulty in procuring such 
seed, as no ordinary fanning mill will remove some of the worst enemies 
of the farmer and good flax. It was this fact, more than any other, that 
led to the system of "loaning seed and contracting the crop," which has 
been so long practiced in Ohio, Indiana and elsewhere. The linseed-oil 
manufacturer who receives the crop of a large section of country is ena- 
bled to select choice lots of seed, and reserve them for sowing, and then, 
by machinery too expensive and crumbr^us for ordinary use, to clean it 
so thoroughly that he can gin out each year an almost perfect article of 
sowing seed. Of the superiority of such seed over what can ordinarily 
be obtained in the market, and even in seed stores, we are convinced by 
examining a sample of that seed which E. W. Blatchford, Esq., proprietor 
of the "Chicago Lead and Oil Works," is preparing fjr his customers for 
sowing in the coming spring. Of course, when a manufacturer furnishes 
such seed year after year, requiring for it the return of only an equal 
amount of merchantable quality, he can not be expected to stipulate a 
price for the balance of the crop, beyond the ordinary average, taking a 
series of years into the account; and it is upon this basis that the business 
has been conducted hitherto, and it is still continued to the acceptance of 
a majority of the farmers in the largest flax-growing districts. In this 
connection we would add that, with good seed to sow, there is nothing like 
flax as a preparatory crop for wheat. The testimony of Ohio farmers, 
where flax has been extensively grown for over a quarter of a century, 
is explicit on this point, and to this fact we would call the especial atten- 
tion of our Illinois and Wisconsin farmers, whose wheat-growing for some 
time has been so discouraging. — Chicago Tb-ibu?ie. 

Cultivation of Tobacco. — The following is from the California Farmer 
by a contributor who has had an experience of several years in the cul- 
tivation of tobacco: 

" In order to grow strong tobacco plants, the ground must be well pre- 
pared and worked very fine. In preparing the seed-bed I have found 
that the best way is to light a large fire on the ground; the soil is thus 
rendered loose and friable, and is easily reduced very fine. If it is not 
convenient to make a tire, mix the earth with a large dose of wood-ashes 
and small charred dust. By this meaTis the ground becomes so loose that, 
when the plants are read\''^for transplanting, a good sprinkling from the 
garden-pot will make the\ground so soft that each plant will bring with 
it a small ball of earth, which almost insures the plant's growing, and it 
must be borne in mind that young tobacco plants require very careful 
handling. It is better to have a large shallow basket or box to carry the 

E hints in when transplanting, as by this means the plants do not lose the 
all of earth or gi.-t bruised so much as if taken in the hand. 
"The seed-bed being made fine with the rake, take the seed and mix it 
well with ten times (by bulk) as much fine earth and ashes. This enables 
you to sow the seed so thin that in drawing the larger plants you do not 
disturb the smaller ones. 

"The ground being prepared and the seed well mixed as directed, pro- 
ceed to sow, taking care to scatter the seed as equally as possible. Do not 
rake in the seed, but give the bed a slight beating with the bsick of the 
spade, and see that the earth does not rise with the spade. Let the seed- 
bed be m a sheltered situation, ^^■hen the plants are about the size cab- 
bage plants usually are at transplanting, operations may commence, mak- 
ing choice of u cloudy or even a rainy day for the business. The ground 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. ^ 

for the crop must be well worked and well manured with decayed ma- 
nure; and it is better to have two shingles or other pieces of timber about 
six feet high, to stick on end in the ground, meeting over the plant so as 
to protect it from being scorched with the noon-day sun or nipped with 
the morning frost. A light, sandy soil suits the tobacco well, if well 
worked and manured. In another communication, I will explain the 
summer culture and gathering." 

An old tobacconist of Sacramento informs the Bee that all the Califor- 
nia tobacco he has seen has been spoiled in curing. It is cured in houses 
which are so hot that the leaf is burned and destroyed. The entire sub- 
stance is taken out of it, and nothing but the coarse vegetable matter 
left, without any or scarcely any of the qualities of the plant. And this, 
he says, must ever be the result while the leaf is dried as it has been here. 
He proposes that it be dried under trees, through whose branches the sun 
does not penetrate, and through which the air can freely circulate, in order 
that the leaf may not be bleached of all its properties. 

The best qualities of tobacco are said to be cultivated on new soil, on 
the southern sides of gently sloping hills. 

Treating and Flavorh)g Tobacco. — A very common opinion prevailed for 
a long period, that tobacco was a tropical plant, and could not be culti- 
vated in latitudes of moderate temperature. It is a fact, however, that 
it will grow, and may be cultivated, not only in all latitudes where corn 
or maize comes to maturity, but in regions much further north. Large 
crops of tobacco are now raised in the valley of the Connecticut, and the 
leaf of the plant is smooth, and held to be well suited for the wrappers 
of cigars, it is also cultivated in some portions of Albany and Ontario 
counties in NewYork, thus proving that the plant may thrive in our most 
J^orthern States. And not only may it be cultivated in such latitudes, 
but it is well known that, soon after it was introduced from America into 
England, it was cultivated, for a period, with success in several sections 
of that country, and also in Ireland. In 1570, it was grown in Yoikshire, 
to a considerable extent; but its cultivation was prohibited by an act of 
government, for the purpose of deriving a large revenue from that which 
was imported. This occurred during the period of the Commonwealth, 
ii; 1652 ; and since then, not a leaf of tobacco, except as a curiosity, has 
been grown in England. 

We have been told by those who are esteemed connoisseurs of tobacco, 
that, although this plant grows luxuriantly, when properly treated, in the 
Northern States, still it is not equal to the qualities which are cultivated 
in warmer latitudes. This is, perhaps, owing to the mode by which it is 
treated, after it has matured. In Virginia, the sun-dried tobacco is held 
to be the best for chewing, but most of it is finally cured by artificial heat. 
Tobacco, in leaf, is very sensitive to moisture in the atmosphere, because 
it contains so much potash, common salt, and lime. An analysis of this 
plant gave — potash, 8.7 percent.; soda. 1.2; lime, 32.2; common salt, 3.8; 
magnesia, 2.8. In Kichmond, which has been the head-quarters of the 
tobacco business, there are very extensive manufactories, where the leaf 
is cured, and afterward made into plugs for chewing. Great care and 
attention are necessary to the proper curing of it; and if the weather 
is moist during the operation it is very liable to mildew. In clear, dry 
weather, it is spread on the tops of sheds, and hung in every situation 
where it can be exposed to the dry air. The sky is watched with anxiety 
during such exposure, so that it may not receive a drop of rain. Very 
frequently it receives its final drying in warm apartments, and in many 
cases these are heated with open fires, dry corn cobs being about the be&i 



"feS THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 

fuel that can be used. Pine and some other woods impart their resinous 
taste to the tobacco, if the smoke is permitted to permeate through the 
leaves. 

After tobacco is perfectly cured, it is prepared for pressing. It is now 
a common practice to flavor it with some mixture of a sweet and aro- 
matic character. A common preparation is that of the tonqua bean, which 
has a pleasant odor. Vanilhi is also used, and difierent manufacturers 
have their special mixtures. The leaves are spread out and slightly 
sprinkled with the aromatic liquid until a sufficient quantity of the nioist- 
ure is absorbed, to render them pliable. They are then rolled into cylin- 
drical packages, and these are squeezed into flat plugs in powerful presses. 
A number of such plugs are subsequently placed together, and subjected 
to a second pressing operation, by which the plugs are converted into 
blocks, and thus fitted for transport and market. It was formerly the 
custom to place the pressed tobacco in a room called the sweat-house, 
where it remained for a considerable period exposed to a warm atmo- 
sphere. This treatment made the tobacco sweat; globules of juice ap- 
peared upon its surface, and dropped on the floor, and its taste was much 
improved thereby. 

It is also conimon with some tobacco manufacturers to sweeten the 
dark and rank qualities for chewing, by dipping the leaves in bunches 
into sugar sirup, before pressing them. We have only referred to the 
treatment of chewing tobacco, the superior qualities being used for this 
purpose. The terms " honey-dew," "sweet leaf," &c., applied to difierent 
lots of tobacco, are of the " bunkum" order. 

Melon-ground. — Look well to the linings of beds, and keep up a good 
heat; as they advance, keep the vines, both of melons and cucumbers, 
evenlj^ trained over the surface. Add fresh mold, gradually, as required; 
remember that melons like a firm (we might almost say a hard) bed to 
grow in; therefore, the soil in which they grow should be quite firm. 
Take care, in planting out or earthening-up, not to cover the plants deeply 
at the collar, or bury the seed-leaves. 

Maxmis on Onion Culture. — Moisture at the base of the bulb for any 
length of time is most injurious to the onion; on the other hand, a dry 
heat at the surface is very beneficial, as it is the sun heat alone which ren- 
ders the Spanish onions so superior to the English in flavor and beauty of 
the bulbs. The hotter the season or the climate, the sweeter is the flavor 
of onions ; and the colder the season or the climate, the more pungent. 

The hoe should never be used among onions. It does mischief; and 
if an onion is once loosened in the soil, it never makes much growth after- 
ward. So, too, the bulbs should never be earthed up; they should stand 
wholly above ground, and have good depth of soil to root in. 

To Sprout Onions. — Pour hot water on your seed, and let it remain two 
or three seconds, and they will immediately sprout, and come up much 
earlier. 

Packing Fruits for Lovg Distances. — A correspondent of the Cottage 
G'a?'c/ew describes the Ibllowing method for packing liesh fruits of various 
kinds. This system he has practiced with success for twenty years, and 
he has sent from distances varying fioni fifty to five hundred miles: 

Take a box, soft paper and sweet bran. A box is chosen in size ac- 
cording to the quantity to be sent. A layer of bran is put on the bottom, 
then each bunch of grapes is held by the hand over a sheet of the paper; 
the four corners of the paper are brought up to the stalk and nicely so- 
cured; then laid on its side in the box, and so on until the lirst layer is 
finished. Then fill the whole over with bran, and give the box a gentle 



THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 89 

shake as you proceed. Begin the second layer as the first, and so on un- 
til the box is completed. Thus, with neat hands the bloom is preserved, 
and may be sent to any distance ; but with clumsy hands, quite the con- 
trary, and often an entire failure, as the putting and taking out of the 
box are the most important points to be observed. I have invariably 
packed sixty to eighty bunches of grapes, and fifty or sixty dozens of 
peaches or apricots in one box, and received letters from persons, who 
eaid they had arrived as safe as if they had been taken from the trees 
that morning. 

Saved his Strawberries. — An exchange mentions an ingenious method 
by which a gentleman saved his strawberries from the daily attacks of 
an army of robins. He killed a worthless cat, skinned and stutfed her, 
and having fitted in glaring glass eyes, he mounted her in the center of a 
strawberry patch. Although the robins continued to congregate upon 
the fence and trees near by, and scolded incessantly, none of them ven- 
tured upon the patch again. Perhaps the same scare robin would savo 
the cherries. It is worth a trial, particularly where cats abound as they 
do in some premises at night. 

Washing Sheep. — Eds. Prairie Farmer: Most of the wool -growers whom 
I visited in Vermont are decidedly opposed to washing sheep. They 
think it often injures them, in which opinion I concur. "When we see 
animals take the care sheep do to walk round or jump over the water, and 
struggle to get out when taken into it as sheep will, I think common 
sense teaches it is not good for them. I am confirmed in this opinion, from 
the fact that in this climate we have sudden changes of weather, and such 
changes often occur when we wash sheep, rendering it cold and uncom- 
fortable for them. Before they are dry, they often take cold and some- 
times die in consequence I think. 

Another reason for not washing is we can shear earlier, and in cool 
weather the wool grows fatter and protects the skin, and we get a better 
clip than when shearing is delayed for warm weather before washing. 
Often when sheep are shorn late in the season, the sun is so hot their skin 
is burnt, and sometimes blisters, and in consequence the wool grows very 
little for weeks. It may not be injurious as practiced by some in the cen- 
tral part of the State, viz, : make a dam on the little streams where the 
water becomes warm in the sun previous to washing. Still I think wash- 
ing sheep a dirty job we might dispense with, and it would be better for 
all concerned, as the manufacturer has the wool to cleanse in any case. 
If all would shear without washing, our wool would, I think, find a mar- 
ket, and be bought on its merits as it should be, without any particular 
rule of deduction. — E. E. Gorham. 

Tan7iing Skins with the Wool or Hair on. — First wash the skin in strong 
S<:)ap-suds, to remove the grease and dirt from the wool, then rinse in 
clean cold water. The skin should now be tacked upon a board (with 
the fiesh side out) and stretched, its edges trimmed, and the whole fleshy 
part scraped off with a blunt knife. It is now rubbed over hard with as 
nuich chalk as it will absorb, or until the chalk falls down in powder. 
Now take the skin down, fill it with finely-ground alum, wrap it closely 
together, and keep it in a dry place for two or three days; at the end 
of that time, unfold it, shake out the alum, and it will be ready for use, 
after being again stretched and dried in the air. This method is for 
white sheep-skins for door-mats. Another mode of treating them con- 
sists in applying a strong solution of alum, moderately warm, with a 
sponge, to the flesh side of the skin, when it is stretched, then allowing 
it to dry, before the chalk is rubbed in. Tt must always be dried in th« 



9§ THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 

open air, or it will turn very hard. Another mode of tnnning fskins 
"with the hair on, after they are stretched on the frame and scraped, is 
to apply a warm decoction of sumac, prepared by boilino; one pound of 
Bumac in a gallon of water for about five minutes. The sumac liquor 
is applied with a sponge to the whole fleshy surface, then the skin is 
dried in the open air. Three applications of the sumac are given, and 
when the skin is dried it is laid upon a smooth board or table, and rub- 
bed down with pumice stone. Both alum and sumac combine with the 
gelatine of the skin, and form leather. 

Plant Strawberries. — As it is doubtful whether 1865 will bring a full 
supply of fruit, it is recommended to plant the small fruits freely, espe- 
cially the strawberry, that nevor fails. The spring is the best time to 
plant this luxurious and healthful fruit; and Marcli is the month. Soon 
as the ground can be put in good order, plant AVilson's Albany Seedling 
or Large Early Scarlet, in rows four feet apart and two feet in the row. 
The summer cultivation can be chiefly performed with the cultivator, pro- 
vided the weeds are not allowed to get the start of you. It is but a slight 
job to dress out a considerable patch; and if frequently done, but little 
work with the hoe will be necessary. As to keeping them in hills or let- 
ting them run at their pleasure, do as you please; though in September 
or October the growing plants should be cut loose from the parent plant 
of the "Wilson's Seedling, or it may be exhausted and die. But if you 
desire only a small garden patch, you had better plant two feet apart each 
■way, and let but few young plants grow, and such only as are set the 
greatest distance from the hill. By this method, of course, hand culture 
must be relied upon. If your daughters should attend to this as well as 
other garden work, they will not be injured by the exercise. Let the girls 
stir themselves out-doors, moderately, but regularly every day. Many 
daughters of the country are becoming namby-pamby, like some of the 
town — an evil that should be corrected by all parents who understand 
the relations of out-door air and exercise to health. Those who have but 
a limited tract of land, will do well to raise from one to ten acres of 
gtrawberries, according as the market is more or less accessible. All farm- 
ers should have a family patch, as the cost is little, and the luxury very 
great. We recommend Wilson's variety, because it has been tested, and 
is a large bearer, as well as a good berry. The Large Early Scarlet is a 
sweeter berry, the vine a vigorous grower, and can be allowed to run at 
random. It is preferable as a berry for home use. If you have old patch- 
es, thin them out thoroughly, and if grassy, turn them under and plant 
a new patch. If the old patch is not too thick, the only labor required 
in the spring is to spade under all the grass that may have made a sUirt, 
and the plants also in places where they are crowded. To get good 
sized berries, the plants must have room. Plants set in March Avill pro- 
duce nothing worth while; better pinch off" the fruit stems as they ap- 
pear, and let the plant have all the growth of the first season. The 
•writer of this has grown strawberries for market several seasons. 

Cutting Timber.— The, following infornjation about cutting timber has 
been forwarded to us from a correspondent, who states he found it among 
the manuscripts of a deceased friend. It appears to be practical, and 
deserving of general attention: Tradition says that the "old" of the moon 
in February "is the best time to cut timber; but from more than twenty 
years of observation and actual experience, I am full}' convinced that it 
is about the worst time to out most, if not all kinds of hard wood, timber. 
Birch, ash, and most or all kinds of hard wood, will, invariably, fovnler- 
yoai, if out any tiuio iu. the fall, after the tree is frozen, or buforw it is 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 91 

thoroughly loaved out in the spring of the year. But if cut after me sap 
in the tree is used up in the growth of the tree, until- freezing weather 
again comes, it will in no instance produce the powder-post worm. When 
the tree is frozen and cut in this condition, the worm first commences its 
ravages on the inside film of the bark, and then penetrates the wood until 
it destroys the sap part thereof. 1 have tbund the months of August, 
September, and October to be the three best in the year to cut hard-wood 
timber. If cut in these months, the timber is harder, more elastic, and 
durable than if cut in winter months. I have, by weighing timber, found 
that of equal quality got out for joiners' tools, is much heavier when cut 
and got out in the above-named months, than in the winter and spring 
months, and it is not so liable to crack. You may cut a tree in September, 
and another in the "old" of the moon in February following, and let thena 
remain, and in one year from the cutting of the first tree you will find it 
sound and unhurt ; while the one last cut is scarcely fit for firewood, from 
decay. This 1 know by experience. I know of several buildings, the 
frames of which were cut in the "old" of the moon in February, princi- 
pally of beach timber, now literally eaten up by the powder-post worm ; 
while other timber, cut before the fi'ost came, remains perfectly sound, 
without the least mark of a worm. Chestnut timber for building will last 
longest, provided the bark be taken ofi". Hemlock and pine ought to be 
cut before being hard frozen, although they do not powder-post ; yet if 
they are cut in the middle of winter, or in the spring of the year, and 
the bark is not taken ofl", the grub will immediately commence its ravages 
between the bark and the wood. 1 have walnut timber on hand which 
has been cut from one to ten years, with the bark on, which was designed 
for ax-helves and ox-bows, and not a worm is to be found therein; it was 
cut between the first of August and the first of November. I have other 
pieces of the same timber cut in the winter months, not two years old, 
and they are entirely destroyed, being full of powder-post and grub worms. 
Within the last ten or twelve years, i have stated the result of my obser- 
vation on, and experience of, cutting timber in diflerent seasons of the 
year, to many of my neighbors and others; and all who have ixiade the 
trial are satisfied that the above statement is correct. Others, more in- 
credulous, follow traditions. It is a fact which is beyond contradiction, 
that when there is the least sap in timber, it is the most durable and solid, 
and will, when seasoned, be the heaviest. And I am fully persuaded that 
nine cords of wood cut in those months above named, will go further than 
ten cut in the winter months. It will burn clearer, the coals will- be more 
solid, and they will retain their heat double the length of time. Who 
does not know that v/ood cut in the winter, and suflered to remain in the 
log, or exposed to the weather, is of but little value? especially beach, 
birch, maple, <fec. ; being so far decayed, it rather molders away than burns, 
making no coals, and giving little heut. Hoop-poles ought to be cut before 
frost comes, and they will last three times as long as when cut in the 
winter, and will remain free from worms. The late Mr. Leonard Ken- 
nedy, of Hartford, Conn,, stated to me some twelve years since, that he 
had lost more or less walnut timber yearly, which he was in the habit of 
purchasing for screws, printing-presses, vices, &c., by its powder-posting, 
although he had been particular to have it cut, as far as possible, in the 
" old' of the moon in February; and he inquired of me if I could inform 
him how to prevent it. 1 told him to order his timber cut in August and 
September, instead of February. He afterward told me that the advice 
was of much value to him, as he had lost none since, if cut in those 
months j and he thought the screws were better. Many others might be 



92 THE house-keeper's guide. 

named "who have followed the same advice, and none have failed of suo 
cess. Most, if not all, persons are more or less interested in the above, 
either in building-timber or mechanical business ; and, on a fair trial, they 
will find they have not been deceived by me. 

Maple Sugar. — A correspondent of the Country Gentleman thus describes 
his method of making maple sugar : The sap, when gathered, should be boil- 
ed as rapidly as possible ; for sometimes a very short time standing will in- 
jure the quality of the sugar, especially if the weather is warm. I'or tho 
purpose of making a nice article, and for boiling fast, you should sirup 
down once a day, at least. The sirup should be boiled down so that it will 
drop from the edge of the dipper in broad drops, like honey; then it is 
ready to dip out and strain, through a wooden strainer, into a clean bar- 
rel kept on hand for the purpose. It should then be allowed to stand eight 
or ten h-ours, to settle. ¥ov sugaring-off, I use an iron kettle of about 14 
gallons ; fill it about two-thirds full ; stir into it two eggs, well beaten ; put 
it over the fire, and when it comes to the boiling point, the scum will rise, 
which should be carefully removed; then dip out until you can't boil it 
over ; and as soon as it gets like soft wax return what you dipped out, in 
small quantities, until all is returned. Keep a good fire from the start; 
you can't boil too fast. There is no danger of burning until the water is 
all gone, then you should take it from the fire. To try it, drop it into 
water, and if it will snap like rosin, it is done. 

The Potato Rot- '^homas Carpenter, of Battle Creek, Mich., communi- 
cates the following as his mode of fighting ofl' the potato rot: Now I will 
tell you how I manage, premising that I never yet had potatoes rot in tho 
ground, and that I am 63 years old. I plant my potatoes in the latter 
part of April, or fore-part of May, and in the old of the moon. When 
they get up six inches high, I plaster and dress them out nicel}'. Now 
for the secret. When the sets show for blossoming, then is the time to 
take two parts plaster, and one part fine salt ; mix well together, and put 
one large spoonful of this compound on each hill ; drop it as nearly in 
the center of the hill as possible. Just as soon as the potatoes are ripe, 
take them out of the ground ; have them perfectly dry when put in tho 
cellar, and keep them in a dry, cool place. Some farmers let their pota- 
toes remain in the ground, soaking through all the cold fall rains until 
the snow flies. The potatoes become diseased in this way more and more 
every year ; hence the potato rot. With such management they should 
rot. 

About Roses. — A correspondent of the Culturist writes to that journal 
concerning the care and treatment of roses. As the season of this beauti- 
ful nymph of .Flora is rapidly approaching, our readers will doubtless 
find much advantage from perusing this letter, which we here append : 
Everybody loves the rose, and ahuost every one desires to possess infor- 
mation that will tend to give the greatest possible effect to this pet of the 
garden and conservatory. It is not as well known, perhaps, as it might 
be, that to have roses in full perfection of size and color, proper planting 
and exposure are absolutel}- essential. The rose requires abundance of 
air and light, and, to look their very best, 1 think that judicious grouping 
is indispensable. I know no way of accomplishing this more effectually 
than by pyramidal grouping — that is, forming a rose pyramid, rising, 
gradually, in highth, froui the minutest dwarf at the base, to the tallest 
standard at the apex. As the varieties are almost endless, it would be 
impossible to enumerate them. Almost every florist's catalogue will sup- 
ply the list, and the taste of the operator direct the arrangement. A 
proper discrimination should, of course, be munifcsLed in regard to th« 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 03 

time and continviance of blooming, so as to secure the finest possible 
effect. I once read of a very simple method of imparting a stronger 
and more agreeable odor to the rose. It is done by planting one or 
two large onions close to the root. It is said that water distilled from 
roses grown, under such circumstances, is decidedly superior to that 
prepared from ordinary rose-leaves. It is a French idea, a,nd, as it will 
cost little to try it, perhaps some persons may feel disposed to experiment 
on it. 

Charcoal for Turkeys. — A correspondent of the Germantown {Pa.) 
Telegraph states that he has made successful experiments in feeding tur- 
keys with charcoal. He took eight of these fowls, and put four in each 
of two separate pens, and fed them alike with meal, boiled potatoes and 
oats, with the exception that one set had a pint of pulverized charcoal 
daily, while the others had none. They were killed on the same day, 
when it was found that those which received the charcoal averaged each 
one and a half pounds more than the others, and their flesh was more 
tender and pleasant. 

Feeding Oats to Horses.-r-A correspondent of the Rural Register gives 
his experience as follows, on feeding horses. He says : 

The same quantity of oats given to a horse produces different effects 
according to the time they are administered. There is, decidedly, a great 
advantage in giving horses water before corn, and an injury in giving 
water after corn. There is a bad habit prevalent, namely, that of giving 
corn and hay on their return to the stable after hard work. Being very 
hungry, they devour it eagerly and do not masticate ; the consequence is, 
it is not so well digested. When a horse returns from work perspiring 
and out of breath, he should be allowed to rest for a time, then give a 
little hay, a half an hour afterward water, then oats. By this plan, water 
may be given without risk of cold. This correspondent states that he has 
made many experiments with his own horses, and the foregoing are con- 
clusions based on his experience. 

Blanketing Horses. — Most persons who have the care of horses in win- 
ter, make a serious mistake in throwing a blanket on the animal as soon 
as he is stopped after becoming heated by hard labor or long traveling. 
The vapor that steams up from the hot sides of the horse condenses and 
w-ets the blanket, and as he continues to cool, the cold and wet covering 
chills, instead of warming him. The better plan is to allow the horse to 
stand uncovered until cooled down to about the ordinary temperature, 
which, of course, will depend on and must be regulated by circumstances, 
and then throw on a dry blanket. 

Let Animals have Daily Exercise. — Horses require daily exercise in the 
open air, and can no more be expected to exist without it than their 
owners. Exercise is an essential feature in stable management, and, like 
well-opportuned food, tends alike to preserve the health of horses. Daily 
exercise is necessary for all horses unless they are sick; it assists and pro- 
motes a free circulation of the blood, determines morbific matter to the 
surface, developes the muscular stricture, creates an appetite, improves 
the wind, and finally invigorates the whole system. We can not expect 
much of a horse that has not been habituated to sufficient daily exercise; 
while such as have been daily exercised and well managed, are capable, 
not only of great exertion and fatigue, but are ready and willing to do 
our bidding at any season. When an animal is overworked, it renders 
the system very susceptible to whatever morbid influences may be present, 
"and imparts to the disease they may labor under, an unusual degree of 
iwivority. The exhaustion produced by want of rest is equally dangerous ; 



94 THE house-keeper's guide. 

Buch horses are always among the first victims of diseases, and when at- 
tacked their treatment is embarassing and unsatisfactory. 

Salt for Aiiimals. — Animals that are permitted to roam in the salt 
marshes are generally the most healthy, as they consume a large amount 
of saline material. The antiseptic property of salt is too well known 
and appreciated by most husbandmen, and the farmer might as well 
think of entirely dispensing with food as to fail in seasoning food with 
salt. No animal can long exist without salt; in the stomach it operates 
favorably, and has a healthy action on the liver. It also prevents the 
food from running into fermentation, and is death on intestinal parasites. 

Chloride of Lime as an Insecticide. — In scattering chloride of lime on a 
plank in a stable, all kinds of flies, but more especially biting flies, wer 
quickly got rid of. Sprinkling beds of vegetables with even a weak solu- 
tion of this salt, efiectually preserves them from caterpillars, butterflies, 
mordella, slugs, &c. It has the same eflect when sprinkled on the foliage 
of fruit-trees. A paste of one part of powdered chloride of lime, and one- 
half part of some fatty matter, placed in a narrow band round the trunk 
of the tree, prevents insects from creeping up it. It has ever been 
noticed that rats and mice quit places in which a certain quantity of 
chloride of lime has been spread. This salt, dried and finely powdered, 
can, no doubt, be employed for the same purposes as flour of sulphur, and 
be spread by the same means. 

To Prevent Fence-posts from Decaying. — Char about two feet of the ends 
which you put in the ground, by burning them, and they will last ten 
times as long. 

Hot-Houses. — Use blue glass for hot-houses, and your seeds will germi- 
nate much sooner, and plants will thrive much better. 

To Protect Aniynalsfrom Flies and bisects. — Walnut leaves, four ounces ; 
lobelia leaves, four ounces; boiling water, one gallon. Let the mixture stand 
until it cools; then press the fluid through a cotton cloth, and add four 
ounces of the tincture of aloes. Apply a small quantity of this compound, 
daily, to the surface of the body, by means of a sponge, and the flies will 
not trouble them. 

To Make He7is Lay in Wiyiter. — Kaise a suflBcient quantity of sunflowers 
for the hens to feed upon the seeds all the winter, and you will have 
plenty of eggs. The best way to raise them is to plant with potatoes ; 
then you can also plant butter or lima-beans, which will run up the stalks, 
and save the expense of polling. The sunflowers will shade thu potatoes, 
and make them grow better and be much sweeter, so that three crops can 
he raised ofi'one piece of ground. Cut your sunflowers up, when ripe, at 
the bottom of the stalk, and set them up on the ends, with their heads 
close together near your fowl-yard, where the hens can run under between 
the stalks, and pick up the seeds as they fall down. 



1 



CONTENTS, 



3 to 6 — Soap and Washing Eeceipts. 

6 — Inks, Cements, and Liquid Solders. 

7 — Small Beers and other Beverages. 

8 to 11 — Domestic Wines, Cider, Cordials, &g 
■'2 — Liquors, Yinegar, &c. 

13 & 14 — Dyeing Eeceipts. 

15 — Hair Dyes and Kestoratives ; Cosmetics. 

16 — Chafed Skin ; Whitening the Skin ; Chapped Hands ; Bunions, 

Corns, Warts, and Chilblains ; To Destroy Flies ; Wash for 
Fruit-Trees , Curculio in Fruit-Trees. 

17 & 18 — Eemoving Stains, G-rease spots, &c. 

19 — " Paint, Ink-stains, and Mildew ; To Keep Silk ; Wool- 

en Cloths; Foul Air in Wells; Disinfectants. 

20 — Barometer; To Harden Lard and Tallow-Candles; Fracture in 

Glass Chimneys; Preservation of the Teeth ; Yeast; Preser- 
vation of Pictures. 

21 — Eancid Butter; To Preserve Milk; Brilliant Whitewash; Zinc 

AVash for Eooms ; Preserving Butter. 

22 —To Make Butter Yellow ; Water-proof Oil-Blacking; Polish for 

Old Furniture ; To Prevent Flies from Injuring Picture- 
frames, Looking-glasses, &c. ; To Clean Silver and Britannia; 
Fire-proof and Water-proof Cloth. 

23 & 24— To Soften Hard Water; Fleas on Dogs; To Brighten Brass; 

To Keep Metals from Busting; To Brown Grun-Barrels ; Skip- 
pers in Ham ; To Prevent Frost in Gardens, &c. ; Substitute 
for Coffee; To Exterminate Eats, Eoaches, &c. 
26 — To Preserve Eggs ; How to Catch Fish and Wild-Fowls ; Seal- 

ing-wax for Bottles ; Substitute for a Carpet. 



CULINAEY DEPAETMENT. 

26 — Wheat Bread; Eye and Indian Bread; Biscuits, Eolls, &c 

27 & 28— Baked and Boiled Puddings. 

29 <& 30 — Pudding Sauces ; Pies and Pastry. 

31 to 36— Custards, Cakes, &c. 

36 to 39— Meats, Fish, Oysters, &c. 

39 to 45 — Preserves, Pickles, Jellies, Jams, &c. 

45 — Hints to House-keepers. 



46 



MEDICAL DEPAETMENT. 

— Cough Syrup; Fever and Ague Cure; Eomcdy for Dyspepsia 
and Liver Complaint. 

95 



•6 CONTElTTa. 

PAOE. 

4T — Tonic Bitters; Alterative Sirup for Scrofula, &c.; Kheumatic 

Drops, or No. 6 ; Composition Powders ; Liniment for Cuts, 
Bruises, &c. 

48 — Diarrhea Cordial and Cholera Sirup; Diphtheria. 

49 — Cure for Hydrophobia; Important Medical Discovery. 

50 — Cure for Small-pox; To Prevent its Defacing Marks. 
50 to 52 — Kules for the Preservation of the Health. 

52 — Water-cure; Hints on Pure Air, Sunlight, &c. 

52 to 55— Pood and Drink for the Sick; Why Children Die; Causes of 
Dj'spepsia. 

55 — Poisons and their Antidotes. 

56 to 60 — Vegetable Materia Medica, giving the Medical Properties of all 

common Herbs and Plants. 



MECHANICS' DEPAKTMENT. 

61 — Painting Glass Transparencies; Varnish for Wood Patterns; 

Etching Varnish; Flexible Varnish. 

62 — Varnish for Iron Work and Japan, 

62 & 63 — Transparent Painting on Linen ; Prints on Glass, Wood, &c. 

64 — Colors for Stamping Muslin; Collodion FormulaB. 

65 — Dammara Varnish; Alloy for Journal Boxes; Babbit Metal; 

Fine Polishing Powder; Consolidating Cast-steel. 

66 — Harmless Green-color for Confectionery; Furniture Paste ; 

Cleaning Brass, Tin-ware, &c. ; Black on Gun-Barrels 

67 — Aluminum Bronze; Bronzing Metals, 

68 — Dull Black on Brass; Staining Marble; Hardening Wood for 

Pulleys ; Case-hardening Iron. 

69 & 70 — Enameling Vessels ; Silvering by Tin ; WeJding Cast-steel ; 

Gilding Steel; To Silver Brass; Tinning Iron. 

71 — Coloring Gold; Kid and Glazed Leather; Tanning Nets, Sails, 

and Cordage. 

72 — Preserving Wood; Cement for Steam-Boilers ; Marine Glue; 

Cement for Leather Belts; Cement for Petroleum Stills. 

73 — Attaching Ornaments to Wood; Kubber Cement; Blacking for 

Harness, Leather, &c. ; Cement for Brick Walls ; To Gild 
Iron and Steel with Gold; To Silver Iron and other Metals; 
To Stain Wood various Colors. 

74 — Staining Wood; Solders; Starting Fires under Boilers. 

75 & 76 — New Chrome Green ; Preventive of Decay in Timber. 
77 & 78 — Testing Gilded Articles; Gold and Silver. 

79 «& 80 — Destructive Etfects of Iron Bust; To Put a Paper "Positive" 
into a Looking-glass ; Water-glass in Soap. 



FARMERS' DEPARTMENT. 

81 to 94 — Containing many Valuable Hints upon nearly all 
tuining to Husbandry, the Management of Stoc 



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